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My Hood Fastener Has Sheared Off


harvs

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Hi

 

I've started fitting my hood, using using lift-the-dot fasteners across the window frame. I've fitted the back plate to the hood and last night started to fit the studs to the frame

 

Here's what the studs look like...

 

1879.jpg

 

I managed to carefully drill the hole using a hand drill, but when screwing in the stud, it sheared off. I guess the sub zero temperatures weren't helping...

 

Anyway, here's what the frame + broken stud look like now...

 

4251377038_d04dac69e0.jpg

 

I've tried drilling the stud out, but the metal seems quite hard and obviously I've not been pushing too hard on the windscreen.

 

Does anyone have any ideas of how I can fix this?!

Cheers

Harvs

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I need to use this position as one of the studs. Maybe I'll just have to take the windscreen off, and try and drill it out with it on a flat surface so I can apply a bit more pressure....

 

Actually, thinking about it, this may be a better method of doing it - if I have the windscreen off, I can bring it into the warm house when measuring up the hood fitting positions - rather than trying to keep the garage warm so that the material stretches.

 

I was hoping for a quick and easy solution to getting the stud out (without taking the windscreen off). But, as with most things hoody, I guess there aren't any short cuts!

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Guest mower man

RE EASY OUTS I would think that given the small size of the broken stud and the very distinct possibility of it being VERY hard metal ,its a self tapping screw ! that the chances of removing that screw are on a par with succesful fog knitting !!! the easiest solution but certainly not cheep is a new screen frame ,how many succesfull ones have you fitted ? if it.s the first one what about reversing the screen frame and starting again ? ,dress off and fill the hole and paint the inner face matt black after fitting the studs of course only youy will know and you won' t get dazzled by sun flashing off the polished alloy best of luck regards mower man :unknw: :good: :clapping: :crazy:

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Guest Botbuilder

The stud is a self tapping type and made of steel which is harder than normal steel. If you know anyone who can sharpen drill bits then buy a masonry drill bit (2 or 3mm diameter) and get it re-ground to cut steel. It's takes a few minutes with a green grinding wheel. This will probably drill out the broken piece of stud. Alternatively you will have to remove the screen frame and get the broken stud spark eroded out. I suspect you drilled the hole a little too small causing the stud to snap.

 

If you want I can sharpen a masonry bit for you. Email me if you are stuck.

 

Alan :good:

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I have different fasteners to you, with mine I have to pull the hood over and turn fastener half a turn to fix it.

Each fastener is held on to the screen with two small self tappers, which would cover your snapped one ,but the fittings on the front of your hood would need to be changed.

 

HTH jon

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Great - many thanks for all the replies guys

 

what about reversing the screen frame and starting again ?

 

That's what I've gone for. Was actually quite easy to do. The broken stood doesn't look too bad and will be nearly hidden by the interior mirror. Done 5 studs now, and all went in ok.

 

I suspect you drilled the hole a little too small causing the stud to snap.

 

Yep - think that was partly to blame. I really didn't want to make the hole too big, so erred on the smaller side. Went 0.5mm bigger this time, and they still did up quite tight.

 

John - that's also another good idea. I'd have maybe gone for that solution if I hadn't already been in the garage to sort it tonight!

 

It's great being a hoodie :)

Cheers

Harvs

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Guest robinj66

I used a small (1-2mm) cobalt drill bit to drill one out when the same thing happened on my Cobra.

 

Probably best to take the screen off before you try it though

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Guest smartfazer
I used a small (1-2mm) cobalt drill bit to drill one out when the same thing happened on my Cobra.

 

Probably best to take the screen off before you try it though

 

 

Beat me to it Robin, but Cobalt drill is what I would have suggested.

 

Harv seems to have got this fixed now though.

 

Steve

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