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Robbie 2B

2b - Pinto To Duratec Conversion

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What compression ratio will that be running? And bear in mind water isn't free anymore.

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Don't know a lot but modern flash boilers would be upto it I'm told , heating oil fired any body know any more? .Had a steampowerd pinto but once it stoppe ,couldn't get it to start again . :crazy: mower man

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Flash boiler GOOD heating oil BAD ( read your invoice " this fuel must not be used as public road fuel" O.K but it works just fine so only use in your tractor or stand-by generator.

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Beauty in form & function --- 2-6-4 Tank --- E-bay 170682074590 --- but in a larger scale - say 4 or 6" to the foot. :rolleyes: :hi:

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Robbie your guestimated power is a tad optimistic as the standard duratec is strangled by the inlet manifold and the emission biased ECU however it's still a great engine and has massive potential.

You can get over 200 bhp without taking the engine apart

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Flash boiler GOOD heating oil BAD ( read your invoice " this fuel must not be used as public road fuel" O.K but it works just fine so only use in your tractor or stand-by generator.

A good case for chippy deisel then :lol: mower man :good:

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The conversion is completed but I am having no joy getting the thing to run.

 

Fuel pump is operating, priming the fuel rail and stopping.

All relays are energising but the engine will not turm over. All connects have been checked and double checked and the starter motor works fine when fed directly from the batery. It seems that the ECU (Central Junction Box) does not appear to be giving the correct signals. After the rapid LED flashes a PATS fault of 2 times 2 flashes is being indicated through the attached LED.

 

Its a long shot, but does anyone know what a 2.2 fault means on a Mk 3 Mondeo?

 

On a Transit it is stated to be a ROM error - no ECU ID stored (duff ECU)

 

Before I go for a replacement ECU does anyone have one with a chipped key for temporary lone or sale?

Has anyone have this problem before with a Zetec conversion.

 

Any help or advice gratefully recieved.

 

Robbie

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Hey Robbie 2B how is your duratec engine going in your kit car?

 

Mainly want to know as I've just blown the head gasket on my 2.0 pinto and I may have cracked the head and the block.

This to me seems a bit out of the ordinary as I was told that the pinto engine was strong and I have the 205 block does this sound right?

 

Anyway if the worst is to come I was thinking of a duratec conversion and just wondering if it is worth the effort?

I also have a series 3A not sure how different that is in the engine bay?

 

thanks.

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Oliver

 

Its not at the moment. The mechanical aspects are a doddle the electrics, using the original Ford loom, inlet manifold sensors and ECU is a nightmare.

 

I have now tried another ECU (same code and part number), key and transceiver and still no joy. The dreaded 2.2 flash is still happening.

 

If you go for the conversion it would be easier to go down the route of throttle bodies, return fuel rail and after market ECU.

 

I have ordered a diagnostic cable so will try and cobble together a 16 pin ISO plug to see if their are any fault codes recorded in the original ECU. The next and possibly final option is to fit a Mondeo instrument cluster - yet another trip to Bridges.

 

Will keep you posted on the outcome.

 

Robbie

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You wont get the Ford ECU to work, it looks for the original dash as well as other stuff such as ABS and if fitted gearbox ecu.

Some Australian forums have fitted the complete dash binicle behind the dash or in the boot to try and defete the security but it still causes problems with bonnet and boot switch which the security wants to see.

The Ford ECU's were difficult upto the Zetec engines, now with the latest engines they are a nightmare. You could find yourself in limp home mode at best and never sort the problem out.

Emerald, Omex, Megasquirt.

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Robbie, i have been looking at the conversion myself and your a brave man for trying to make

the donor loom work. As a cheaper alternative i have been looking at chestersportscars megajolt and carb conversion for the duratec (emissions may be a problem/or not :drinks: ) Its about

£750ish for the whole kit ready to bolt up with map preinstalled. Failing that i'm sure emerald or omex etc would plug straight into the original ford sensors but you'd need an intake plenum

for the standard throttle body and a small air filter.... GBS currently do one for the zetec to

give you an idea

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Well I said I would keep you posted.

 

I know its been a few weeks since my last post but I have been busy with the Ford TIS, solder iron and shrink sleeve and its paid off - its finally runs!!!

 

After connecting up the PCM (ECU), instrument cluster (IC) and generic control module (GCM) the PATS lights finally went out and it started first time!

 

Next job is to weed out all the unrequired interconnects to see what is actually needed and what can be cropped.

 

There are a few items which now need to be dealt with such as the door ajar light showing on the IC, where to locate the drivers door lock and do I actualy need the controls for the sunroof.

 

So it is possible to take a Duratec HE straight out of a Mk 3 Mondeo and get it to work in a kit car using just the original Ford parts. the Robin Hood philosophy can continue! Using the original inlet manifold, fuel pump, PCM, key and transceiver it can be done.

 

Dead chuffed

 

Robbie

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I'm amazed that you have managed to overcome enough security interconnects and get the duratec to run on the ford ecu. I suspect you still have much to do. Things like the door open light. Manufacturers are terrified of being sued. If a door is open I suspect will not permit you to drive.

 

We had a brake light fail on the golf on the M5. The ECU detected a 'brake fault'. I think it looked it up in its database and found 'Brake fault = unsafe to proceed = engine may tickover but not drive' or some such and the car came to a stop on the M5. We had to be recovered. Fault reader found the duff brake light bulb. Replaced it and the car was back to normal.

 

I suspect before the ECU will allow normal driving you have to identify all the checks it makes like doors closed, brakes working (pad wear, ABS, brake lights, fluid level all OK) etc and then give it the right signals for all these and any others and then the engine will run normally.

 

Nigel

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The main restriction to power in a Duratec is the inlet manifold if you are running a standard engine instal with emmision restrictive ECU you are unlikely to see much more than the standard bhp

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Longborder

 

Thanks for the reply. One added advantage of using the Ford PCM is that I have also wired in the OBD II port so can plug in a ELM 327 cable and using a laptop get a print out and reset any faults as well as reseting the MIL light. Will post some photos if interested.

 

Robbie

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