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ianjenn

Decision Made Duratec V6

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So after playing about with a pinto, blacktop, st170, supercharger and nitrous it is time for a new project for the winter. After much deliberation and research I've decided to go for the duratec V6 3.0l from a jag s-type. On paper it is the perfect engine for a kit car, light powerful, torque-y, reasonably priced etc. Has an all aluminium block and 240bhp out of the box. Modern v8's are just not going to fit (lexus and audi) and a rover v8 just strikes me as a backward step. I also considered the alfa v6 (I admit it looks stunning) but this just can't match the performance of the duratec

 

So first things first is purchase a suitable v6 and voila arrived yesterday

 

link to pictures, I will continue to update

 

So far I have striped off all ancillaries, switched the sump to a jaguar x-type (+oil pickup) as this is a much better shape than the s-type sump. Slight snag is that the left hand engine mount was missing but this is hopefully getting posted out to me.

 

From my first trial lowering into the 2b it looks promising.

 

further updates to follow soon

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Check on eBay, there's a 3000cc v6 cosworth s7 if you want some inspiration. ;) looks mental!

 

Good engines, shares some components with the st220 ;)

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What gearbox are you going to graft on?

Will you need to construct a bell housing adaptor?

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What gearbox are you going to graft on?

Will you need to construct a bell housing adaptor?

 

 

wahhooooo!!! look what the postman brought in the photo link (first post)

 

 

It took a lot of research this bit. The Jag gearbox has ridiculous ratios so was not an option and lookin through posts on the net it seems that most people have discounted this engine because of the gearbox issue. But then I came across a write up of the morgan and noble kits which use the same engine. After a few phone calls I discovered that they instructed a firm to make them a custom bell housing. The custom bell housing is for a type 9. So I am going to use my existing type-9 that has quaife internals.

 

Looks like the bell housing takes a standard Jag hydraulic clutch. I also mite need a spacer between bellhousing and box to use the existing input shaft cover. My type 9 has the caterham long input shaft so I have the spacer already. The spigot bearing needs to be OD=35mm ID 15mm? (need to think about this)

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Don't want to spoil your fun, but I went to Basset Down Engineering to get my Zetec flywheel balanced.

 

Basset Down Engineering do a lot of balancing on components for racing motorcycle teams. There in pile after pile of pallets all full of Ford V6 crank shafts for Jags, Fords & the biger posher Jag. Any way just as one would I asked why all these crankshafts, seems there is a problem with balancing and Ford have a lot of failures so now Basset do a re balance of all new crankshafts.

 

Do you think the type 9 has the torque capability for the Duratec?

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Had an hour this afternoon so removed exhaust manifolds (one of the studs sheared grrrrr!!). The engine fits real easy. Doesn't look like i need to modify the chassis at all. In fact I think I can use the existing engine mountings from both the jag and the 2b with a 50mm rubber mount. Just need to drill some new holes in the chassis plates.

 

I have put the bell housing on the gearbox and will try this in next just to make sure everything lines up. For the spigot bearing I am going to machine a spacer to take the flywheel down to the standard spigot size then use a standard bearing.

 

I have put some new pics in the folder.

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A bit of progress sort of. It has taken me a month to get the driver side engine mount. In the end the original supplier stopped replying to my emails so I have ended up buying one from ebay. Anyway, the good news is that the engine fits perfectly, there is loads of space and as I hoped the engine mounts fit onto the original robin hood plates with a couple of new holes. I have put some new pictures into the link in first post.

 

The engine is back out now and I'm in the process of mounting the alternator then a trial fit of the waterpump and belt.

 

At the other end I have made a spacer to fit a standard spigot bearing and the solid flywheel is mounted with ARP bolts.

I have put a 10mm spacer between gearbox and bellhousing which puts the clutch plate in the middle of the splines on the input shaft. As it turns out, it is an advantage to have a longer input shaft.

 

I have bought an x-type sump which is a much better design and doesn't need to be shortened. the original sump is a weird shape. The engine breather on the left head had snapped off so I have had to remove the rocker cover to check for any plastic bits and found one so will re-fit sump and rocker cover next.

 

I have stripped out the fuel rail as i need to modify slightly to remove the original ECU controlled regulator (the wife went out so took the opportunity to have the dishwasher make it sparkly)

 

I am starting to look into fuel pump options and then i need to decide what ECu to use. megasquirt, omex or emerald.

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Alex, this just looks stunning! What a motor! Have you fired it up? Bet you can't wait. How are you going to keep the rear wheels on the ground!?! Good luck, Andy & Ollie.

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bit more progress. (some new pics)

 

Fuel pump is in. I have gone for the emerald ECU and I have put in position. I just need to get my heard around the wiring.

 

I have decided to space the clutch slave cylinder out by 12mm using a piece of aluminium.

 

On the engine I have removed the existing idler pulley and replaced with a smaller one. I have mounted the water pump and put on a kubota alternator.

 

For the cooling system I think I am right in thinking that the correct sequence is

water pump - engine - thermostat, top radiator hose, the thermostat and the bottom hose then go back to the water pump.

 

Any one know if I need to put a small bypass tube on the thermostat to ensure some water passes through the radiator like you do on a zetec?

 

The other question is what oil do i put in a type 9 gearbox with Quaife internals?

 

alex

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Hi Ian, sounds like it's cracking on. Bypass? Some say yes, some say no. I put one in on the Zetec following Longboarder's sound advice. So if the stat closes off the block on a Duratec till it's hot I guess the answer is the same. Saved a few bob as well by using a 28mm 15mm 28mm copper endfeed tee with 28mm stubs and a 15mm stub and olives soldered on to get the hose clips to grip. Dunno about gear oil - can't Quaife advise?

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ianjann: I'm assuming you're going for EFI. Do you have a swirl pot under the bonnet, or are you planning on using the pump to suck the fuel from the tank? The general concensus is that efi pumps are placed near the fuel tank and used to push fuel to the front

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