Vin Number Drama!

[Guest Hammy360]

Such an easy non techy job and it's caused me massive pain!! I borrowed some number and letter stamps from a mate of mine and started trying to bang my vin number into the zero chassis. Long and the short of it is I had to try and redo each digit, I got to the third one and backed off. I've got a mildly dented chassis rail with illegible digits! GUTTED doesn't cover it.....

 

Where have I got this wrong??

[steve in stockport]

probably because the chassis section isn't really heavy duty, one good crack is all you should give a stamp.

Can you get anything into the chassis to support as you stamp? Otherwise try another more substantial section of the chassis, or engrave the number with a dremel or something similar

[agent_zed]

i had this prob on the 2b the punches were cheap and didnt want to make the mark and just bounced and just made a mess. I ended up doing a plate and welding it to the floor pan and a display one on an ally plate in the engine bay.

 

hth

[steve_wilson]

i stamped mine onto a strip of stainless then welded to the chassis

iirc it has to be on a certain side of the car. drivers side i think...

[Guest loopyonion]

On my IVA, after stamping the chassis, i was told that by the tester that he wanted a plate stamping on a firm surface, and fixing to the car instead. He wanted this completing and fitting over my first stamp, I used rivets which he was okay with.. Apparently one or two of the digits were not as clear as he wanted.

 

DVLA were also okay with this on their checks.

[Guest Hammy360]

Cheers guys

[knights_templar]

Hi

 

Chassis No must be on the vehicle twice

 

one on the manufacturers plate, which can be riveted on, the second must be either stamped, which you have found is difficult, engraved, which requires a steady had, or the simplest as mentioned above, stamp a piece of stainless steel and weld it to the chassis.

 

must be to off side of vehicle though, anywhere convenient that the tester can get to.

 

Regards

[Guest carl leonard]

That's a new one!

Does it say in the IVA manual that the number must be in 2 places?

 

carl.

[steve_wilson]

yes, one has to be on the chassis (i just welded a plate with it stamped on to the chassis)

and another on a plate which i riveted on, he was fine with that

[Guest AdrianH]

This is just out of interest. For some another forum I have done a few plates for builders once they have received their numbers from the DVLA.

 

for a few, I milled the engine number into a piece of 25 x 25 x 1.6 mm square tube. This would then allow them to fit as a cross brace or an extra piece in the chassis. For others I have done a piece of 25 x 2 mm flat plate. As an example:

 

The letters are approx 10 to 11 mm high, and it takes me about an hour to do a complete one.

 

The problem I had was packaging and postage.

 

Adrian

[Guest sandy77uk]

Hey Adrian they look quality

[Guest Hammy360]

All sorted, made a plate to be engraved tomorrow and a mate said he'd come round and do after work for a couple of beers! Good man too he's built a haynes roadster and a Cobra and whilst he drinks in my local I had no idea about his fabrication company or his kit car experience!

 

PS. The Cobra is HOT!!

[Guest sandy77uk]

build is looking good Hammy

[Guest Hammy360]

build is looking good Hammy

 

Thanks mate!

[Guest Brian T]

I renovate Velocettes for a job and more often than not the frame has to be blasted and powder coated, sometimes retubed , even where the frame number is stamped, with the thickness of powder coat and especially if it has been retubed and the number therefore missing in entireity we simply stamp the original number on a piece of aluminium and Araldite it in place, if we tried to stamp it in it wouldn't go through the thickness of powder coat into the metal and it would also damage the powder coating. We've done loads like that and DVLA for those that have needed to be inspected and re reged and everyone MOT'd (all) have never been questioned.