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Compression Struts / Tie Bar Installation Help

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I realise views are divided regarding the fitment of the comression struts against using thinner arb's, however I've think I'm going to go ahead with the conversion on my exmo and buy the kit that burton power sells at circa £150 for the sierra.


My question............has anyone had any problems with compression struts clashing with thier wheels on full lock as I realise my arb has a bend in it to clear the wheels????


Any help or guidance regarding the installation as always would be greatly appreciated.



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Details have arrived safe and sound. Its a very comprehensive package. I really appreciate that.   Thanks Chris

Made a big difference! Improved from end grip and now the car feels much more balanced when cornering!   One of the best mods I have done to the car and worth 10tmes what it costs!

Having read the details I have a question for you. The tie bar will swivel up and down, but the bracket you use positions the rose at the least favoured position for this movement. Would it not be bet

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A simple stop in the steering rack will limit rack travel if the tyres do hit.

In normal driving you are unlikely to put full lock on, only perhaps if parking or doing a U turn

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Burtons do a sierra kit and an escort kit. Apparently the escort struts are shorter and as such might be a better option for a RH? The frustrating thing is that the bloke at Burtons couldnt tell me thier lengths?


Ive read loads of forums about the pros and cons of tiebars, but there isn't much about the installation of them and any problems to look out for. I'd like to buy these at the end of the month and gather as much info as possible in the mean time........ so anyone whos fitted these, can you please let me know how you got on.


cheers everyone

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Fitted Tie bars to a series 3 did not buy the Burton ones.

You will need to make up brackets for the side of your car bracing inside and a long bar side to side to spread the twisting forces across the car.

On my car removal of the anti roll bar and replacement with tie bars, Gaz shocks and softer springs transformed the ride and handlig from very hard and massive understeer to compliant and predictable, took a little getting used to as the tail will hang out where before it was impossible.

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hi Richard,

i'm interested to know how this goes as i have all the parts to do the conversion but no spare time,

i even have adjustable TCA's for pinch and nut type.

one concern i had was that the tyre would catch on the tie bar on full lock, the Burtons compression struts are alot of money for what they are.

this is something i was going to do once i have the damn thing MOT'd, along with the shortened sump and the boot and the ............everything else i want to do.



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This was my milled anti roll bar solution befor changing to tie bars




Better than unmodified roll bar and would have been even better with 120ib springs not the 180lb fitted, the tie bars with 125ib springs are however the best.

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I got info from Mowerman (Ta)

Take him up on the offer, with his plans and a set of tie bars off the forum some years back the whole conversion cost probably £30, then Gaz shocks and secondhand springs cost about £150

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You could cut the anti-roll bar and have it drilled and tapped for rose joints.

I made the body brackets out of 2x1 box and bent plate for supports under the car and inside the engine bay

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Cuttin the roll bar and drilling and tapping the end has crossed my mind but thought that the roll bar might be too hard? Also would you go m10 or m12?

Mowerman is comin round on saturday so im sure he will put me straight!

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