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Compression Struts / Tie Bar Installation Help


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Looking at your attachment brackets they seem small if fitting to a monocoque

I used much larger plates to spread the load under the car and sandwiched similar inside to prevent them ripping out, also ran 25x50 tube under from both mounting plate to prevent they tub twisting a sort of under the car strut brace

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Details have arrived safe and sound. Its a very comprehensive package. I really appreciate that.   Thanks Chris

Made a big difference! Improved from end grip and now the car feels much more balanced when cornering!   One of the best mods I have done to the car and worth 10tmes what it costs!

Having read the details I have a question for you. The tie bar will swivel up and down, but the bracket you use positions the rose at the least favoured position for this movement. Would it not be bet

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They are fine because the dog leg shape of the arb changes the direction of the loading onto the brackets than if a straight bar was used.

 

plus the new engine mounts for the v8 are directly in line with these brackets and this strengthens the whole design massively.

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I am new to this game but could I put forward a suggestion that could be stupid? :crazy:

 

1. Leave the existing ARB fixings in place (no additional work).

2. Cut the ARB exactly in half and shorten each half by a couple of inches.

3. Heat, drill and tap an M12 thread into each half of the ARB at the cut point.

4. Here's where I'm a bit stuck. Screw a fitting into each new thread to re-unite the ARB into a single piece. This fitting should allow one half of the ARB to turn independant of the other so should contain a UJ of some sort (you can see I'm no engineer), it should always keep the two halves of the ARB perfectly aligned in a straight line and it should be dimensioned to keep the ARB at its original length.. I have no idea what this part is called so cant find anything suitable on Google. HELP required.

 

This design would keep all the suspension geometry the same, would require no new brackets to be bolted or welded, would be cheap to do, would keep the angle of the ARB to suspension identical (obviously), and have the desired effect of divorcing the movement of one side of the suspension to the other.

 

Feel free to comment, but be gentle. :rofl:

Edited by bumpy
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When the roll bar is complete there is little side to side movement with it cut I'm not sure

I have heard of people doing this and using two anti roll bar mounts either side

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Bumpy. Your idea isn't daft. In fact I consider a very similar solution.

 

 

As Paul says though, you would definatley need 2 pairs ARB bodywork mounts. 1 pair of mounts would be in the original locations but an additional pair of mounts would be needed close to the centre of the ARB & either side of the new "rotating joint" to stop the 2 peices of ARB pivoting about their original mounting points under accel / braking load.

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If you want details of the best /cheapest /most common tie bar con version pm your postal address to me mowerman

 

Details have arrived safe and sound. Its a very comprehensive package. I really appreciate that.

 

Thanks Chris

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Hi Richard

 

This was nice job, but you didn't go on to say how it worked on the road. I am eager to hear.

 

Cheers Chris

 

Made a big difference! Improved from end grip and now the car feels much more balanced when cornering!

 

One of the best mods I have done to the car and worth 10tmes what it costs!

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Great stuff!!!! mower man :clapping: :acute: :crazy:

 

Having read the details I have a question for you. The tie bar will swivel up and down, but the bracket you use positions the rose at the least favoured position for this movement. Would it not be better to turn the bracket and rose through 90 degrees to make the most of the movement on the rose.

 

 

 

The picture I found is typical of the orientation you recommend.c593b005.jpg

Edited by bumpy
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Idon't see your point quite honestly, the amount of movement needed is provided in the form it is , and they have been done like this not only on RH's but lots of other stuff too, perhaps on a rally car or off roader you would need more movement because of the amount of deflection but for road work or circuit work its not needed ,my ops only and it's good to see a different angle on things mower man

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  • 10 months later...

 

 

Details have arrived safe and sound. Its a very comprehensive package. I really appreciate that.

 

Thanks Chris

I too received info pack from Mower Man - Top man, info received quickly and comprehensive.

 

Just one question to throw out there, has anybody carried out this mod to a tubular chassis?

If so, does anybody have photos of their fixing arrangement?

My chassis is a Sub K similar to a 2b/4......

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I had to fit flat wishbone pivots to my sliding pillar 2B round chassis.

I found that welding from above & below the bracket gave plenty of strength.

Maybe remove a small rectangle from the body side panel, weld a flat plate to the chassis

and bolt the pivot bracket to that.?

 

PS love your marmalade!!!!

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Bumpys photo is from my installation

The movement at that end is so minimal even at full compression or droop the its not a problem

I did fit the thin rose joints to 25mm box and used ofset washers to space the rose, this gives more than enough free movement

 

http://bit.ly/1c9b7Nl

Edited by Snapperpaul
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