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Compression Struts / Tie Bar Installation Help


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That could be a way forward. Fortunately my farther owns a machine shop full of lathes and milling machines etc....etc.....so I could turn a mild steel collar that fits over the end of the roll bar at one end (to be welded onto the roll bar), and at the other end of the collar drill and tap it to suit the rose joint!


With regards to the rose joint, what thread size is generally accepted as okay to us? I'm thinking M10 or M12?

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I done mine using Micks plans and some suitable stainless rod in 20mm. Tool it to a machine shop and they wanted £150 just to machine them, told them to get a grip! Then a friend machines them and I believe I had them back in a week 2" x 1" box cut diagonally across the 2" side makes a good bracket. Plates as described earlier to give support is defo needed. Don't forget to get tracking readjusted.



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I did my tie bars by moding the ARB, the center section of the ARB was flattened at the ends and then secured where the original rubber mounts where fitted as a strenthening bar, there are a couple of pics i my garage plus info on rose joint size i used.

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Hi Mikae,


Looks great!


Did you have any problems drilling the end of the ARB? (too hard etc....)


Oh yes i had to heat the ends up a few times to soften the ends so i could finish drilling them , cost me a couple of drill's though, tapping was no problem,


There was much more info in my garage write up but it looks like most of it got lost when web site was updated.

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A big thank you to mowerman mick who took time out to come round and give me a load of help and advice with this!

It was really nice to meet you mick and i look forward to seeing you again around the shows!

Thanks Richard it was my pleasure and if the paperwork and conversation has helped thats all I ask and as I said this morning any time ! mower man mick

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Okay..........got all of the bits now and going to make a start this weekend!


I'm going to fabricate the mowerman car brackets as per the drawings (got the box section, angle and m12 bolts today), but I am going to use the "modified ARB" method that Miikae has described using m12 rose joints.


I've also bought some Superflex bushes for my TCA (may as well do that while I'm messing about down there!)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi everyone,


Anti roll bar conversion to tie bar now complete and photo’s attached.


To summarize what I did;


1) Cut the ARB ends off with an angle grinder. This cut the metal without any problems.


2) Drilled and taped the ends of the ARB M12 and approx 50mm deep. NOTE: These ends were hardened (very hard!) and as such needed softening. To soften them, I use propane blow-torch and firebricks and got the end of the bars glowing red/orange hot. I then let them cool very slowly until they were cold enough to handle. This softened them enough for drilling and so I then piloted them 3.5mm, drilled 10.3mm, and tapped M12 (all using a pillar drill).


3) The brackets are made form 25x50 box section and 50x50 RSA. After cutting the box section to shape, I welded them onto the RSA. This is simply for easy of fitment to the car.


4) The brackets are drilled M12 and bolted through the sides (2 bolts) and bottom (2 bolts) of the RSA. The only difficulty here was drilling the holes in the bottom of the car!


5) New Superflex poly bushes fitted, job done.


Without the bushes, the whole job cost me about £15 (rose joints and M12 cap head bolts).



Now all I need to do is paint the brackets and ARB ends, then finish of the engine and take the car for a spin to see how the front end grip has been improved.






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  • 11 months later...

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