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Guest plugy

the diagram attached shows the current loom with the plasitc block that has 1 fasher wire and a wire for the left side and wire for the right side indicators.

I have cut this wire and used a DPDT on/on toggle switch 6 terminal.

 

1 2

3 4

5 6

 

i have attached the flasher wire to the middle terminal 3 and linked with the one next to i t4.

The indictor wires to pins 1 and 2.

 

Ignition on throw switch indicators work when stalk in moved up and down along with the repective directional light on my dash.

THrow the switch the other way and the hazzards flash as should.

 

PROBLEM i have no hazzard flashing light, i have a 2 spade dash light and tried allways on wiring swopping chopping and linking wires from here and there but cannot get to flash when hazzards are activated.

 

Nobody seems to now how to get round this any ideas

 

 

 

I have a DPDT on/on toggle switch i an trying to wire instead of the origanl siera switch.

post-4719-0-41401500-1335137508.jpg

Edited by plugy
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Can't find your diagram but I love a wiring challenge. Try to put up the diagram of the wiring or link to it and the structure of the the switch.

You have the indicators working fine on ignition live and right and left indicator warning lights working.

You have the hazards working fine, presumably on battery live (must be), but you can't get a dash hazard tell-tale light to work.

Is that what you are asking? How to add the hazard warning light?

 

Nigel

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Here you go here is how to do it.

 

The two diodes back to back will not allow current to pass when using left and right indicators. However, one the Hazard switch is closed both diodes will conduct driving both left and right and the warning lamp at the same time.

 

 

 

Hope that helps

 

Nige

post-2594-0-94621100-1335207207_thumb.jpg

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You need for IVA to have hazard supply from battery live and indicator supply from switched live. Using the OP's DPDT switch which I assume connects 3 with 1, plus 4 with 2 or alternatively 3 with 5 plus 4 with 6, but does not cross link between the two rows of contacts, try the pic below. I can't get away from using two diodes and they should be set so flow is from 4 to the two indicator circuits but blocking back flow from the indicator circuits.

 

Nigel

post-21-0-47049200-1335230124_thumb.jpg

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If you want to do it substituting a relay for the diodes for separation of the left/right indicator link then I think this will work without powering up the ignition side but using it as a leak to earth for the relay when ignition is off. I am still thinking about this and the only way to be certain is probably to try it. Requires a slightly specialised relay to do.

 

Nigel

post-21-0-45727700-1335266338_thumb.jpg

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I can't see how that is going to work. 85 and 86 are both connected to battery positive either direct or through ignition so there is no p.d across the coil. When the ignition is off, unless the switched live is grounded, there is still no p.d across the relay so it still can't work.

 

The diodes solution works better I think and there are no moving parts to go wrong unlike a relay. Much cheaper than a relay too.

 

Simon.

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I can't see how that is going to work............so it still can't work.
Oh Ye of little faith. Terminals 85 and 86 are connected exactly where I intended them to be. It is not an error. You quite rightly point out that when the ignition is on and the Hazard switch is 'off' there will be no PD across these terminals, the relay will be unswitched and the left and right indicator circuits will not be joined. That's correct and the normal configuration when driving.

When the ignition is off and the hazards are off there is a small current flow from battery live back through the ignition live which I believe will find its way to ground through various ignition live supplied circuits without being sufficient to activate them but being enough to switch the relay, joining left and right indicator circuits so that the hazards will flash all lights when switched on.

I offer both solutions to the OP, with diodes in the certainty it will work and with a relay as a fun exercise for me (with a Luddite attitude to electronics) but in the strong belief that it will also work. This solution is qualified twice in the post to show it is not guaranteed and that the solution is dependant on other factors such as what ignition live equipment is fitted to his car (coil, ignition warning light, ECU, etc), the degree of earth leakage from his ignition circuits, etc.

The OP asked for a solution which would use the DPDT switch he has. I made them IVA compliant as I assumed that either he was still building in which case it would be a good thing or he is modifying in which case it would still be a good thing at MOT time. I don't claim them to be 'better or worse' than yours or any other solutions that may come up. I think both these ideas fulfil his brief but we shall probably never know because I certainly won't be building and testing them on his Tiger Cat.

 

Nigel

 

My experience of relays and diodes are that they are both pretty reliable as are column switches but all can suffer failures. A relay does cost more than two diodes.

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Hi Nigel,

 

I can see that there needs to be some leakage back through the switched live part to make the relay work. It can't just end in a dangling wire end as would be the case were it a simple switch.

 

It might pose a problem if there was more current drawn than expected. If there is a current through ignition live, might it not also switch the relays for main lights as well? Then you might have hazard headlights too :)

 

You shouldn't of course, wire a relay coil straight from positive to ground without limiting the current flow through it. Even a 4 ohm coil would take 3 amps or 36 Watts and quickly burn out.

 

I'm not saying you idea WON'T work, it's just that it depends heavily on what the switched live goes to.

 

Simon.

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Guest QuadraDave

Hi if you do a search on goggle for westfield durite hazard switch wiring diagram it takes you to westfield tech site and gives you the wiring diagram and durite hazard switch number this is a 10 pin switch and wires through a normal flasher unit and it all works ok this how i have done mine hope this helps Dave D PS westfield-world.com/durite.htm is the web address but for some reason i cant paste the link.

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  • 8 years later...
Guest MattyCAT
On 4/23/2012 at 7:55 PM, nigelt said:

Here you go here is how to do it.

 

The two diodes back to back will not allow current to pass when using left and right indicators. However, one the Hazard switch is closed both diodes will conduct driving both left and right and the warning lamp at the same time.

 

 

 

Hope that helps

 

Nige

post-2594-0-94621100-1335207207_thumb.jpg

Hi Nige,

Just doing this myself, what Diodes did you use , do you habe a link to them? cheers matt

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Hi. You may not have noticed that this thread is 8 years old. It so happens though that I had a similar wiring issue and after some advice got these diodes from ebay which worked to prevent hazards flashing when indicating. I'm not an electronic expert. All I can say is they did the job and no fire yet! 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131705279273

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