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Exhaust Fitting Help


Guest Alex2bTurner

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Guest Alex2bTurner

so i picked up the new exhaust from Alan Kidner at the weekend and i have spent the last couple of nights trying to fit it with no luck. So far i have removed the alternator, the steering lengthener bit and the engine mount and it still won't go in, has any body got any suggestion on what else i could do or anything i could be doing wrong.

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this is as close i can get it. All help much appreciated.

Alex

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Guest fatherhood

Did exactly the same last weekend, had to cut a bigger hole through the side panel to allow the four pipes to come through. Was only one pipe on my 1.6 pinto.

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The hole in the panel is set by the person who built the car and would have been positioned for the old exhaust. The new 4-2-1 could well fit in the correct place or as above you may need to open the hole. I personally wouldn't open the hole until you are sure it is in the wrong place as the last thing you want is for it to drop into place and the hole to now be huge and have a big space in the wrong place.

 

do you have an additional joint in the steering shaft between the triangle connection and the rack? I had a feeling it needs an extra one to move the steering rod around the 4-2-1. could well be wrong though.

 

You might need to change the clutch cable to the longer one to move it away from the exhaust heat.

 

Edit - just saw the new reply and was exactly what i was about to write :)

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Guest Alex2bTurner

thanks for all the help so far how hard is it to remove the master cylinder off the servo as i have never worked with servos before, is it just a bolt off bolt on job

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Guest Alan_builder

thanks for all the help so far how hard is it to remove the master cylinder off the servo as i have never worked with servos before, is it just a bolt off bolt on job

 

Yes

 

2 bolts and a seal. I did mine several times.

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As long as you don't take pipes off the master cylinder it's a sime job

By the look of it you'll need to take the other mount off and push the engine as far over as you can

By this stage and if you still can't get the manifold in, taking the engine right out is only a few bolts

Edited by Snapperpaul
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Guest Alan_builder

would i have to replace the seal and would anything need bleeding up after wards

 

No not unless you are a dumb cluck, I have never changed the seal.

If you don't take the brake pipes off there is no bleeding.

 

The big black tank is a vacuum chamber. The big plastic pipe from the inlet manifold keeps sucking air out of this chamber, a "small" air leak should be no problem. There is a push rod passing through the vacuum chamber from the brake pedal to master cylinder.

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Hi,

After removing the exhaust on my car to reweld and lag it. I had a similar problem. Plus the additional issue of the engine at low revs shaking the exhaust off and breaking it now and then.

I cut the pipe just inside where it enters the body and welded a exhaust correction (a ball and socket kind of thing which clamps with two bolts in springs). This means the engine no longer shakes the exhaust to bits as the new join offers some damping between the two halves of pipe. It also means it's much easier to remove from the car and reinstall.

If you did anything similar you might kill two birds with one stone.

Regards

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