2B Pedal Box Issues

[FERRINO]

Evening all,

 

Some of you may have seen my first introduction post but for those that didn't I have just taken on a really tatty part built 2B sliding pillar project.

 

The previous owner also bought it part built with the motor/gearbox fitted. He then started putting the internal panels in but told me that the standard panels were rubbish so he has mostly made his own from scrap metal and even a road sign for the gearbox tunnel.

 

Almost every area without exception needs sorting out - but decided to hit the pedal box/steering area first. I have watched the build DVD's (cheers again for those Simon) - but he seemed to gloss over that area very briefly as if they fit brilliantly straight off.

 

Put together the servo and pedal assy etc and offered it up to find there is no way its going to fit. The clutch depresses approx half way before hitting the tunnel and there is no room at all for the accelerator. I thought the tunnel might be too far over but looking at the gap behind to the gearbox it looks about right.

 

I didn't really want to cut/shut/have the pedals rewelded to try and fit as my welding is not the best. Did everybody else have to do this or is there something I'm missing? Any help would be gratefully appreciated.

 

Cheers

Tony

 

 

 

[FERRINO]

 

[FERRINO]

[fry61]

First off,where in the country are you hiding? On our 2B I remade the pedal box & cut,bent & rewelded/strengthened the clutch & brake pedals & reshaped the throttle pedal to sit inside the chassis line. (only outer skin body-work so pedal is working behind & in line with the chassis upright halfway down the tunnel) Foot room is great,I can drive in normal shoes & even had room for a foot-rest left of clutch.

[FERRINO]

Many thanks for the reply Florin, I'm in Rugby which is a little town in Warwickshire approx 15miles from Coventry.

 

It sounds like you have had to put some serious work into that area - has every 2B owner had to remake their pedal box assy then?

[fry61]

Don't know how much alteration others have done,I completely re-worked mine so I could drive in ordinary shoes,be comfortable & have a left foot rest. Sorry we are so far away,maybe see you at Newark;if so find me out & I'll show what I've done & you can try the pedal arrangement for yourself;regards Bob.

[FERRINO]

Thanks for that Bob, really appreciate the help and offer of a nose at yours.

 

I won't be at Newark I'm afraid, I've got a very young family and a ridiculously miserable wife so no chance of being let off the leash.

 

Looks like I'm going to have to improve the old welding skills after all then. If anybody has a piccy of their pedal box and pedal layout it would be a great help.

 

Cheers

Tony

[speedtripledan]

the box in my b was not cut and shut but i have long sense sold it and have no pics some one will have a pic

use the nipping out for a loaf of bread trick and go to newark to buy it

[nicko]

My pedal box fitted ok, but to gain clutch movement I squeezed part of it together with mole grips. The throttle pedal I spaced towards the driver and angled outwards. It looks rubbish, but works ok for me and remember if the pedals seem to high you can always put in a false floor.

Nick

 

[Guest peter2b2002]

i took out some of the spacers between the clutch and brake pedles then made a small bracket for the throttle pedle that i mounted onto the fire wall beside the pedle box

peter2b

[Guest chris brown]

I have often said that I should have had my pedal box fitted with duez (spelling) it was was removed and cut and shut that many times during the build I also put a strip of ally over the quadrant with the cable running over it so the clutch pedal had less travel.

[steve in stockport]

just to add another problem, you haven't got your steering column in there yet which will interfere with the brake pedal.

You aren't going to be driving for a while, so sort out the steering which needs to be clear of your exhaust manifold and brake servo. Once that's in place you can rework the pedals to fit round the column and clear the tunnel.

I opted to cut the pedals off about an inch below the pivots and welded flat 30mm x 6mm bar in place that I shaped to clear everything, then rewelded the pedal pads back on the bottom.

[FERRINO]

Many thanks for all the replies and great suggestions .

 

Think I'm going to go with the idea of cutting the pedals off and shaping my own from bar as was suggested as that seems the easiest all round.

 

I've also got a problem/query with the steering column connection to the rack jont - so will add some pics of what I've been left with there later, but remaking the pedals will be best to get round that too.

 

Thanks again

[Graham B]

The pedal box always was a problem. The fitment depended on how you made the gearbox cover.. On yours it probably is wider than it needs to be.--thus less room for the feet.

Throttle pedal was mounted seperately.

Clutch pedal was on the box -spacers removed as Pete says. The Brake pedal was cut and shut around the steering column --and reinforced !!

[Bob Tucker]

I've also got a problem/query with the steering column connection to the rack jont....""

 

The rack on the sliding pillar IIRC is a metro....the RHE supplied column ends in a square section of steel to fit the rack.....but it doesnt....its a real bodge

If you use it make sure the pinch bolt goes through the groove on the rack.

 

My sliding pillar has long since been replaced by wishbones & a Sierra rack, so I cant help with pictures

Bob