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Drive Shaft Gaiter Fitting Problem


CAF
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somebody is breaking a full sierra over on locostbuilders at the moment, might have some driveshafts available there

Thanks Steve, I have had a look on the WED and they are in very poor condition, also they want three figures for the two rusty old drive shafts, so at the moment I am going to keep looking.

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I remember a Sierra at one of my local scrappies. Last I knew, they had dumped it at the very back out of the way.

 

I got the steering column covers from them at a silly price, like they didn't know their real value. I could go and see if it's still there and what bits are left on it ...

 

Simon.

Thanks Simon, it would be interesting to know what Sierra it is? my donor was 1989 LX, I live in Dorset so it a bit of a stretch to Doncaster, but may be that's going to be my only option!

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Sorry didn't realise you had the push in type doh

how ever I will soon be breaking a efi sierra and I don't need the rear end, only the engine and gearbox for my Dutton. let me know if you're interested should be available in around 2 to 3 weeks. it will mean you'll have to change the diff, the lower wishbones and the shafts but its easier to get spares.

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Guys, Have been looking all over the WEB, trying to find a near side Sierra LX (1986) drive shaft, new, refurbished, repairer or secondhand, but they are like gold dust, any suggestions?

 

I'm not clear why you need a complete driveshaft? Surely you just replace the metal can and gaitor etc. You just need to know the dameter of the can as they come in two sizes. I have some of these repair kits going spare so if you need one get in touch.

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I'm not clear why you need a complete driveshaft? Surely you just replace the metal can and gaitor etc. You just need to know the dameter of the can as they come in two sizes. I have some of these repair kits going spare so if you need one get in touch.

Hi I did not know you could replace the metal can, it's crimped (both ends see my picture) with a big lip (which has broken off) I am sure it must be special process to seal the can to drive shaft components, but would be interested if it's possible?
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Sorry didn't realise you had the push in type doh

how ever I will soon be breaking a efi sierra and I don't need the rear end, only the engine and gearbox for my Dutton. let me know if you're interested should be available in around 2 to 3 weeks. it will mean you'll have to change the diff, the lower wishbones and the shafts but its easier to get spares.

Thanks for your reply, that interesting, but I have not done any repairs like this before, how difficult is going to be, it could end up that its my only solution, would be interested to discuss it further.
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Try contacting these people. If they can't help they could perhaps refer you on. They do list what you are after.

http://www.jandrcvjo...eatured&page=24

 

Nigel

Thanks, I did call them a couple of weeks ago, the Sierra drive shaft they now supply have a larger can size so they do not fit the original Sierra backend. I am going to see a workshop in Luton that specialize in this sort of thing this week, fingers crossed!

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Should only be nuts and bolts job if you can find a sierra workshop manual it'll give you a good idea or maybe have a look on the internet.

I'll let you know when I strip the car.

Thanks, keep me posted, in the mean time I will keep looking!

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Caf, I've used the J & R driveshafts. I think I was the test bed! They will fit but you can't instal them like the originals as the diameter is larger and clearance is tight. To get them in you undo the gaiter on the inner joint and dismantle the joint (3 screws). Push the inner joint into the diff. You then put the outer joint and shaft into place from under the car as the outer joint assembly won't pass through the trailing arm hole as the original did. Undo the shock and lower the arm, you can then lift the shaft and part of the inner joint back into place. Jack up the trailing arm and reassemble the inner joint. Outer joint clearance is very tight and you can't fit the plastic stone guard but I am making stone guards to fit.

 

The boss at J & R was really helpfull and supplied replacement clips and grease etc. he will be making a different size shaft in the future now he understands the problem. He said that the current push in shafts will take more power than the originals.

 

Rob

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Caf, I've used the J & R driveshafts. I think I was the test bed! They will fit but you can't instal them like the originals as the diameter is larger and clearance is tight. To get them in you undo the gaiter on the inner joint and dismantle the joint (3 screws). Push the inner joint into the diff. You then put the outer joint and shaft into place from under the car as the outer joint assembly won't pass through the trailing arm hole as the original did. Undo the shock and lower the arm, you can then lift the shaft and part of the inner joint back into place. Jack up the trailing arm and reassemble the inner joint. Outer joint clearance is very tight and you can't fit the plastic stone guard but I am making stone guards to fit.

 

The boss at J & R was really helpfull and supplied replacement clips and grease etc. he will be making a different size shaft in the future now he understands the problem. He said that the current push in shafts will take more power than the originals.

 

Rob

Thanks Rob that's a very interesting solution, the guy I spoke to at J & R said he new the problem, but could not help me and got off the phone asap! At the moment I have found a company in Luton RECO, that say they can refurbish/repair the can on my drive shaft, I will know the outcome early next week. If it not good I am sure I will be talking to J&R again. Regards Chris

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  • 3 weeks later...

Not a good experience at RECO, they had the drive shaft for two and half weeks, said they had sent it away to be refurbished, but only did a botched up job with my existing gaiter and wanted £80+VAT. the best option looks like J&R suggested by Rob with the oversize can, not sure how difficult it's going to be?

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