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Electronic Distrubutor And Current Set Up Questions

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I've been looking at buying a electronic distrubutor to replace my current points distrubutor. Can anyone reccomend one at all? As mowerman has said he has one for sale? Surely with no vac on the side though it will not be able to advance the timing unless I have a ECU to program it.

Secondly on my current set up with points and vaccum advance I don't have the vaccum connected as I was told it would run better with my twin 40 webers. But then thinking about it I am going to get no advance unless it is connected. I have a vaccum port blocked off on top of my inlet manifold. Would I be better to unblock this and connect it to the vac advance?

Cheers

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probably as best to go for megajolt ecu with trigger wheel the other way is to go for something like bestek distributer and amplifier which will be easeir and cheaper to install with the megajolt you can change the map on a laptop no vac advance needed or the bestec you tell them your engine and mods and they make up the dizzy and amp to suit engine no vac advance required

Edited by tractor

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Two things to consider (sure that there are more) but remember that you should have a mechanical advance from the bob weights in the normal distributor, so that as engine speed increases so does the advance. Secondly when you put your foot down, the vacuum at the manifold drops so that the vacuum advance does nothing, it comes into play at idle or at low loads/over run, so the main effect is in smoother idle and fuel economy (or so I'm told!)

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I would try it on my pintosoreass I did have vac advance but it did run more to my liking without it

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If you are just changing to get away from points and get the reliability of an electronic setup then the cheap way is something like Accuspark is worth looking at. I have one on the Daimler and Ian J has one on his Beauford. Another way is to change the dissy see eBay item 391005541909.

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Will that not need some ECU? As obviously it doesn't have a vac advance? I don't understand then how it advances the timing? Then there are 3 wires? How do they wire up. To the low tension side of the coil and? Cheers

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One wire earth, one wire to switched 12v (positive side of coil) third wire to negative side of coil. Uses bob weights exactly the same as points and if vac is connected that as well. The replacement dissy doesn't have vac just bob weights so works exactly as you have your setup.

Edited by chris brown

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I have a pointless dizzy on my 2.1 pinto. I also previously had twin 45s fitted. The vacuum advance was not connected and the car ran fine. Just as an experiment I connected an advance tube and the engine ran like a pig. I now have the same dizzy without the vacuum advance and bike carbs. Runs fine. As said in the post by emptyat the bob weights in the dizzy take care of the mechanical advance as the engine revs increase.

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The dizzy on ebay which is now sold (did you buy it?) is sierra, without vacuum advance and with a three wire connection so probably hall effect. It's not stand-alone and requires the correct amplifier to go with it, which may be a slight pain working out which the correct amplifier is.

Questions you have asked is do you connect vac advance with your twin 40's. Answer is NO. (In practice the vacuum advance does nothing for power and it's a faff to make vacuum connections to all four inlets and set up a little plenum chamber to make an acceptable vacuum source for the dizzy when the benefit is almost nil). You can remove the vacuum device from the dizzy and make up a bracket to stop movement of the moving plate to which the points are fixed.

Another question is about how advance happens. Two types in your dizzy, vacuum and mechanical. Vacuum you know about! Mechanical? Below the plates on which the points sit inside your dizzy are two small weights on levers with control springs. The central shaft of the dizzy is actually two shafts, the top one carrying the rotor arm is pivoted on the bottom shaft that's gear-driven off the jack shaft at half engine speed. The sprung bob weights control rotation of the top part of the shaft relative to the bottom part as they move under centrifugal force. Faster the engine goes the more the top part carrying the points cam and the rotor arm are advanced relative to the engine driven lower half of the dizzy shaft. There are stops in the dizzy mechanism that factory set the zero and full advance positions, which allow around 30 degrees of movement depending on the application.

Your dizzy even if a bit worn is suitable for modification to electronic. I did mine 15 years ago with a magnetronic kit but there are cheaper upgrades i.e. powerspark available which were discussed a few weeks ago on this forum. Two wires and a doodah that fits in the dizzy. Do a search. The main benefit of this simple upgrade is more accurate and stable timing regardless of wear in the dizzy. Set and forget.

 

Nigel

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ive got an accuspark dizzy set up.. it needs 2 wires uses standard bob weights and a van advance but has electronics instead of points.

 

simple to wire up and fit set up and forget. I run mine with van advance but since its RR set up he told me to leave disconnected .

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