First Time Engine Start Up - What To Expect

[Guest david_l_perry]

Just about ready to get the Jag engine for its first time start up.

 

Oil is in, coolant is in, fuel is in the tank.....all pretty much wired up

 

 

Just awaiting the Base Map from emerald to be emailed over and then it should be all systems go.....

I have the details on what to do as far as step by step start up using the emerald.

 

 

As this is the first time starting up a new engine fit for me with injection, what things should I be expecting..

 

Should I start with throttle body closed, part open....

 

I'm thinking about things like how long it should take for fuel to start kicking through the system...and how long before I should be getting concerned if its not starting up....

 

Should I expect to need some sort of Carb quick start spray in the air intake manifold to help get it started....obviously its not carbs.....but assume this can still be sprayed into the throttle body

 

Any thoughts and comments always greatly received....

 

ta

[Andi]

Bet the excitement is killing you.

And im sure lots will be on in a minute with good advice.

My advice is don`t forget to video it.

 

Andi

[Guest 2b cruising]

As it has been standing for a couple of months, i would remove ignition feed one way or another. Then turn the engine over to get oil pressure up.

Try first on closed throttle, then if no start, gradually open the throttle.

Fuel should feed injectors with ignition on without engine turning over.

Really should start almost strait away. That's why I suggested no load turn over first.

[steve in stockport]

A F'king great big grin!

 

Plugs out, coil packs disconnected, turn engine over until you've got oil pressure then plugs back in, reconnect coil packs and she should go. Feather the accelerator if necessary then once you're going start looking for leaks etc

 

[Guest david_l_perry]

Why plugs out Steve ?

 

Coil and injectors are on a separate loom so easy to keep them disconnected.

 

Also, I assume its ok to drive on the base map, and wont need trailering to a rolling road.

[steve in stockport]

Removing the plugs out let's the engine turn over faster, less strain on the starter and oil pressure achieved faster.

[stevedohc2b]

Plugs out will keep them dry as well modern plugs don't like getting wet . Could try turning over with no fuel pump to check oil pre sure , first if plugs hard to get out? Then when oil pressure ok cone the fuel pump prime rail switching ignition on and off a few times.Then go for it.

Big smiles

 

Stephen

[Guest peter2b2002]

Put fingers in ears and a big grin

Peter2b

[Guest david_l_perry]

Actually, removing the plugs is more of a pain than you can think on these V6 units. You have to remove the entire upper air inlet manifold and throttle body to get to the left hand bank. You can see the large alloy manifold over the drivers side bank that covers the plugs and coils. An hour or so rebuild, by which time oil pressure will have dropped back down.....don't think that's something that makes sense doing in this case.

[Guest david_l_perry]

Just back to the other point about the base map. What can I expect it to drive like with the initial base map ? I assume it's perfectly ok to drive on the base map so I don't have to trailer it to a rolling road place for tuning ??

[Guest 2b cruising]

That is a exactly why I suggested to disconnect ignition by whatever means possible.

You will still need an ignition live to starter motor.

[magh]

And just to be on the cautious side a fire extinguisher then at least if anything does go wrong you can save it before it destroys too much. Good luck and as said video it.

[theduck]

Just back to the other point about the base map. What can I expect it to drive like with the initial base map ? I assume it's perfectly ok to drive on the base map so I don't have to trailer it to a rolling road place for tuning ??

 

Yes you can drive it, just don't drive it hard.

Edited May 10, 2015 by theduck

[Longboarder]

The base map will need to be checked/altered so it has calibrations for your set of sensors. ECU might be reading crank sensor, cam sensor, air and engine temperature, revs, load sensor (Map or TPS) and it needs to know what these items are. ie. 3 ohms from the CTS is 21 deg C. 2.1 volts from the TPS is throttle closed. Crank sensor is a MVR or Hall effect. Trigger wheel pattern.

Most ECU will give you live readings for the sensors so you can see that they make sense. It will also want to know what idle strategy, ignition change or IACV, to use.

The advice to cycle ignition many times or even run flyleads to the LP fuel pump to fill the swirl pot is good.

Then its the same advice as starting any long unused engine in getting up oil pressure. Most injected engines will start with your foot off the throttle but if it won't then very gentle movements of the throttle only to nurse it along. Most ECUs have a cranking at 100% throttle fuel cutoff to rectify flooded engine facility. Does emerald? (Only if TPS calibrated so ecu knows what 100% throttle is.)

You can drive it gently on a base map. It must be rolling roaded.

 

Nigel

[Guest david_l_perry]

Well, I now have nice oil pressure showing - so all is good so far

 

Emerald are sending over the map based upon all the sensor details I gave them - ie factory trigger wheel and TPS, Air and coolant sensors are emeralds own units - and I am after confirmation on the wiring of the Ignition drivers on the loom from them as well

 

I certainly wont be messing with it - white mans magic that lot.

 

Just waiting to hear back from a couple of rolling road places.

 

Steve in Stockport has been very helpful on the phone as well !