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What Is A Pinch Bolt?


danielbrookes

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Guest 2b cruising

I would not do this until you have had some run in time with it.

You will also need a cobalt or better drill to cut through an 8.8 bolt cleanly.

You can either put the pin straight through the nut and bolt but make sure you hit the centre of the bolt.

You will not be able to tighten the nut up anymore in the future as you will not be able to line up all the holes to get the pin back through.

The other and correct way to do it would be to use a castleated nut.

When one is fitted, tighten right up, then drill the hole in the required place.

This allows any future adjustment, or removal and refitment.

Either that or use fine threaded bolts with a new new nylock nut to get them as tight as possible. Fine threads both tighten and hold better through design. Even better use fine threaded nylock flange nuts and bolts. If you have ever needed to undo one of these that has been correctly tightened and left for a couple of years, you will know how difficult these are to loosen off.

Then check frequently on servicing. All critical fixings should be checked on frequent servicing anyway.

You can use copper slip on the mating parts of the bolts, but not on the male or female mating surfaces.

These are designed to be fitted dry in order to sieze together. This could be a reason some people have had problems with separation in the past.

Hope this helps you as a guide. Ken.

Edited by 2b cruising
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Good write-up Ken, but on the wrong application. The pins Ian & I have installed are through the side of the Sierra upright & the dummy strut -- to give a secondary fixing which will show if any relative movement takes place in upright or dummy by movement or loss of the pin.

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Guest 2b cruising

Good write-up Ken, but on the wrong application. The pins Ian & I have installed are through the side of the Sierra upright & the dummy strut -- to give a secondary fixing which will show if any relative movement takes place in upright or dummy by movement or loss of the pin.

 

Ok Bob. See what you mean now.
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Guest Ian & Carole

These are what I used.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QTY-10-3mm-x-10-COILED-PINS-SPIROL-SPIRAL-SWISS-ROLL-ISO-8750-A2-STAINLESS-/321911418383?hash=item4af36a6e0f:g:~~gAAOSw2s1Ut7gL

 

Just drill a 3 mm hole through your hub and dummy strut, one from the front and one from the rear.

 

Obviously not to be done until you have all your geometry set up as you want it.

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Guest Ian & Carole

Think I will get longer bolts and put nylocs on mine, just to be safe, didn't like Ian's photo, the car not Ian.

 

attachicon.gifherne Bay 012 (800x308).jpg

The thing is John a longer bolt and nylock nut won't stop what happened to my car, I simply didn't fit a secondary device to prevent the strut sliding out, and trust me the pinch bolt WAS torqued up to "FT" on the tightness scale.

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Guest 2b cruising

Hi John.

Maybe my post lead you a little astray.

They are not talking about pinning the pinch bolts, but the actual male to female joint. Upright to hub.

Roll pins are good enough for this idea.

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The thing is John a longer bolt and nylock nut won't stop what happened to my car, I simply didn't fit a secondary device to prevent the strut sliding out, and trust me the pinch bolt WAS torqued up to "FT" on the tightness scale.

Ahhh, I've just clicked and I know exactly what you mean by drill through dummy strut now. I was thinking you meant drill through strut and into bolt, I get you now and can visualise what you mean. Thanks for the eBay link too.

 

Oh and thanks everyone else, some helpful reading.

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