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Bonnet fitment


Jthorneuk
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21 hours ago, nicko said:

The bonnet is not meant to fit to the tube behind the dash, you need to fit the dash to fill the gap. Once everything is fitted in place it is fairly rigid. 

Nick

 

I keep getting a difference of opinion on it. 
 

the build video shows it fitting flush 

 

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Get a sheet of hardboard & make a temporary dash, far easier to whittle to shape & once a final pattern is made ( there maybe more than one "temporary " ) transfer to your proper steel dash. 

Florin's dash is made from 6mm hardboard covered in foam mat & vinyl --- the radiused underside edge ( just above your legs ) is wood glued & shaped to the necessary 38 mm ??  Far easier than trying to fit a large radius to the steel. IMO

Edited by fry61
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"I keep getting a difference of opinion on it. "

Welcome to Robin Hood ownership!!

Thats what makes them so interesting....they are all different. Get along to a meet up once we can do that, and you'll see just how many variations there are.

There are quite a few very good build blogs on this site. Take the time to do a few searches, & see what others have done.

 

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So I decided to just go for it and to trim the dash as needed to fill the gap above.

ive cut away at it and managed to achieve this, the only problem is the upright from next to the gear stick on the drivers side is visible and the clocks are so tight to fit where the holes or them are.

I’ve so tried the bottom of the window screen onto the bonnet where it should be.... the curve of the bonnet does not follow the curve of the window screen... this can’t be right can it? Can rubber really be used to fill that gap? Starting to think I have the wrong bonnet for the car lol....

so plan B... about 4 meters away from the car is my cnc machine which can machine any wood to any shape I wish, so I’m going to make a wooden one lol, I can completely custom it as well as get the shape correct.... hopefully....

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I did the same as Fry61 and have a hardboard dash covered in vinyl. After 13 years its finally needing a refresh as its got damp over the years and is sagging slightly. But nice and easy to replace as not that difficult to cut. I did a large oval shape to use the original sierra clocks rather than individual holes as it was easier than trying to cut vinyl around small holes.

I prefer the idea of hardboard above my legs than a sheet of steel! 

The windscreen lower bar looks worse than it is. There will be a bit of a gap that the rubber fills but it looks worse at the moment as it is longer than it needs to be. You'll lose a large part of the curve when you put the screen together. I'll try and take a pic later this evening if you want.

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27 minutes ago, agent_zed said:

I did the same as Fry61 and have a hardboard dash covered in vinyl. After 13 years its finally needing a refresh as its got damp over the years and is sagging slightly. But nice and easy to replace as not that difficult to cut. I did a large oval shape to use the original sierra clocks rather than individual holes as it was easier than trying to cut vinyl around small holes.

I prefer the idea of hardboard above my legs than a sheet of steel! 

The windscreen lower bar looks worse than it is. There will be a bit of a gap that the rubber fills but it looks worse at the moment as it is longer than it needs to be. You'll lose a large part of the curve when you put the screen together. I'll try and take a pic later this evening if you want.

And there are no issues on an IVA with a wooden dash?  My plan is to eventually change the clocks and have nicer ones and different lights to show indication and so on and wooden is a lot easier to do that with,  and once its programmed on my cnc i just press the button again to make another one. 

I cant decide between a leather look vinyl, wrapping it in some car wrapping vinyl which can be heated and stretched into the holes or going for a polished wooden one but im not sure the polished wood is inkeeping with the look im going for which is more street racer than classic car look. 

Also thinking that wood i can make it 18mm thick and then bevel the bottom edge so that it goes through the IVA without a trim on it.  The back I can machne out more so that the dials still sit only a few mm from the front face...

Guess what Im doing today lol  

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as far as i am aware there is no problem with the material used for IVA as long as it meets the curvatures required (2.5mm radius?). Under my passenger side i have a infill panel so the dash comes down and round and is then flat all the way to the firewall/end of the footwell. I failed SVA first time as there were 2 nuts through the firewall that were visible and 'sharp'! so this panel covered everything so no issues. It's a bit crazy as if you are sliding down into the footwell and killing yourself on 2 m6 nuts then something has gone properly wrong. But them's the rules.

Toggle switches can fail also if they are too sharp and are in the wrong place. I can't remember the exact position but there are certain areas where they are ok e.g behind the steering wheel. Otherwise just make sure you use ones that are correctly radiused or have guards around them.

 

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3 minutes ago, agent_zed said:

as far as i am aware there is no problem with the material used for IVA as long as it meets the curvatures required (2.5mm radius?). Under my passenger side i have a infill panel so the dash comes down and round and is then flat all the way to the firewall/end of the footwell. I failed SVA first time as there were 2 nuts through the firewall that were visible and 'sharp'! so this panel covered everything so no issues. It's a bit crazy as if you are sliding down into the footwell and killing yourself on 2 m6 nuts then something has gone properly wrong. But them's the rules.

Toggle switches can fail also if they are too sharp and are in the wrong place. I can't remember the exact position but there are certain areas where they are ok e.g behind the steering wheel. Otherwise just make sure you use ones that are correctly radiused or have guards around them.

I think ill go for a wooden version of the metal one first and then look to modify after the IVA is done, seems a better route to go I think. 

Watch this space for a lovely picture of the finished thing hopefully  later today lol 

 

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4 hours ago, fry61 said:

Check with the IVA manual -- the bottom edge of the dash needs to be 19 mm radius / 38 mm diameter I seem to remember 

yep you are right Individual Vehicle Approval (IVA) for cars: help to get a pass - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) everything else on the dash etc has to be 2.5mm radius

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It is also possible for the edge of the instruments to fail the 2.5 mm radius --- I got around this possible fail point by cutting the " gym mat" instrument holes just slightly larger than over-all diameter of the instrument/switch body. With the vinyl cut to the body size a "frenched" look was achieved & left the gauges just below flush.

A washer will be needed under your switch if fitted by a surface nut on the body.DSCF6664.JPG.0738dd170244ada151d470f311171126.JPG

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Ok so this morning was filled with fitting the bonnet and hinging it the Robin Hood way..

then creating a new dash as the metal just was not working.

quite pleased with it over all. Need to machine it again from 9mm ply as currently its 18mm and the stalks rub on it when using them. But the shape is ok. Need to cut the middle section off and reattach at an angle so it is tighter against the car in the middle as again it restricts hand space when changing gear. But over all good abs the bonnet closed down nicely over it and will be better when rubber strip is added.

 

 

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have a look at extending your steering column.

The triangular shaft that fits inside the the upper part of the steering column can be slid out a little way

It is a tight fit though. Certainly enough to clear the 18mm dash, which would be better than 9mm.

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5 minutes ago, Bob Tucker said:

have a look at extending your steering column.

The triangular shaft that fits inside the the upper part of the steering column can be slid out a little way

It is a tight fit though. Certainly enough to clear the 18mm dash, which would be better than 9mm.

I didn’t think this would be possible.. Not with the car now so will try next time. Would be better for sure as the 18mm is a far better option as you say. 

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