Sandblasting Hubs And Uprights

[peter_m7uk]

I've been doing quite a bit of sandblasting recently and want to move onto

the front uprights and hubs, but I'm wary because of the wheel bearings.

I haven't separated the two and don't intend to because 1) it looks bloody

difficult and 2) the bearings feel and sound ok. There is a gap between

the hub and upright of about 1mm, so I was wondering if the bearings are

well enough sealed that any sand that gets between the gap can just be

blown out with an airline, no damage caused? After all, during the life of

the car, plenty of dust must pass through that gap... If not, I suppose I

can just tape up the gap, be very careful with the blasting, then remove

the rust from that area by hand.

 

Cheers,

 

Pete

[Jon Bradbury]

Pete

 

Mine were sand blasted with the bearings out (with covers on the holes). It's not too difficult to remove them provided you have patience and a big hammer. The hardest job is removing the hub nuts as they are torqued to some tremendous figure.

 

Doing it this way means you could get the carriers plated. I didn't and have regretted it ever since. I used Hammerite and it's all scratching off now.

 

Cheers

 

JonB

[swan]

hi

dont know if this will help

 

but our work method of protecting bearings where possible is to apply a layer of grease tape followed by hardboard discs held through the middle of the bearing with stout wire.

 

for what its worth

 

Swan

[Guest stu205]

ditto above works a treat on scooter hubs!!

[Big Jim]

I used Hammerite and it's all scratching off now.

How many times have I said, DON'T USE HAMMER*bleep*E! it's only fit for propping the door open with!

[Jon Bradbury]

Jim, you shouldn't take it as a personal affront when someone doesn't follow your advice, or agree with your interpretation of things. You're not the only one here with knowledge and experience!

 

I prepared these parts six months before collecting the kit (and before I read about your dislike of this particular paint) and I have used Hammerite quite successfully for many years. I think the front hubs are scratched because there's been alot of work done round them so they've been whacked by various tools during the build. If I'd had them powder coated the story would have been the same (not that I'm saying Hammerite is a good as powder coat, mind - I know it dries soft).

 

On the rear hubs it's a different story. They've been well protected due to their position and the Hammerite looks really good.

 

In both cases I read and followed the instructions on the tin to the letter.

 

However, if you'll notice, I actually advocated getting the hubs plated properly because for this application I agree that Hammerite isn't up to the job.

[peter_m7uk]

I've changed my mind and decided I will change the bearings after all.

In the Haynes manual, it refers to a "drift" to knock the bearings out.

Excuse my great ignorance, but what exactly is a drift?! From what I

can gather on the net, it might be a long, tapered metal rod, but not

all the drifts look like that....

 

Cheers,

 

Pete

[Mitch]

Hi Pete,

 

Has you have guessed, a drift can come in many shapes, it just depends on what you want it for,

 

In this case its just somthing that is made of a softer material so as not to damage the bearing, or just use care and dont hit it too hard and cause it to damage the faces and cause burrs.

 

 

I have not done mine yet, but i think you may get around it with a large socket, which will touch all the face of the bearing a gently tap it until it falls out.

 

Hope that makes sense

 

In fact ignore all above and click Jims Link Here

http://nw.rhocar.org/wheel_bearing.htm

 

Pictures help imensly

 

Mitch

 

ps looking at Jims, a socket wouldnt work this time, unless you have a HGV socket set

Edited July 29, 2005 by Mitch

[Les Welsher]

Pete,

Excuse my great ignorance, but what exactly is a drift?! From what I

can gather on the net, it might be a long, tapered metal rod...

I use a blunted centre punch

 

, but not all the drifts look like that.

My larger drift looks like a big screwdriver

 

Les

[Jon Bradbury]

Pete,

 

Justr whack it with a big screwdriver, bit be careful not to damage the bearing housing. If it is tight (mine was) try heating the hub carrier up with a blowtorch to get it to expand a bit.

 

Follow Jim's guide otherwise, it is spot on (especially the use of the old sealing ring). I did a similar thing with the old bearing race (used it to tap the new one into position) and it prevented any damage my "drift" might have caused.

 

By the way, I have one of those 42mm impact sockets for the hub nuts if you want to borrow it. And a load of other stuff you might find useful, since you're so close...

 

Cheers

 

JonB

[peter_m7uk]

Thanks chaps. And thanks, John, for the socket offer, but working at Ricardo

has it's benefits (e.g. free engine hoist, free sandblasting, free welding,

free van usage, free-ish tool use)

[Jon Bradbury]

Of course, of course, I forgot...

[Guest rizla]

if you take your hubs to a local garage at just before luchtime,you can get one of the mechanics to change the bearings for a modest sum,and without damage

[Guest Battery Bill]

Or do it yourself and spend this "Modest sum" on something else

Go on its easy, especially if you use heat on the hub and put the new bearing cones in the freezer before you fit them they will go in dead easy using a large socket and a hammer.

 

PS The Hammerite is still doing well on our hubs

Sorry Jim

[Guest rizla]

its doing well on my garden gate,and thats the closest its gonna get to my car