Lightweight

[Guest nikscott]

Just started my lw build - apart from the obvious Jig Problem (Not enough chipboard supplied), it seems from the DVD that they have 2 people doing everything. will be interesting doing it on my own. Not convinced about the self jigging as i have lots of holes not lining up. The diff seems to be a permanent fixture! Finally I have just bought 100 1/4 skin pins cos i am not going to rivet as i go. It has to be stripped deburred and bonded with more than just sealer if its going to last. Has anyone else watched the DVD instructions? Sends me to sleep

[E.Hunt]

Yes you can manage with one just take a bit more time with it.

 

the diff is a permanant feture so make sure you've got the right ratio or you will have to take the car apart again. Not sure how the track boys are going to like that?

 

My DVD keeps skipping some parts, must have watched #1 about 25 times

[E.Hunt]

forgot to add you dont get the stub axle adapters with the kit an important component i feel (any body got some laying around)

 

also have you thought how you are going to fit the fuel tank

[Dave R]

hmm falling asleep watching rh on video

where have we heard that before ?

[Guest chris brown]

Has it still got the dog in it? he was the only good thing about the old 2B vids

[E.Hunt]

no dog and no safety googles though they keep pointing out they have got them

[peter_m7uk]

Can someone tell me what 1/4 skin pins are?! If you're not going to rivet as you go, what is your plan, Nik? Don't really follow

 

Pete

[Guest nikscott]

Peter, Skin pins clamp the panels together, act like rivets but are removable. There is no way a monocoque will last without being bonded. I am going to drill & assemble with skin pins, then strip & deburr everything ( I have just got to the end of the 2nd DVD and suddenley they are deburring) you cant do it as they do drilling & riveting as you go, it wont last. After its deburred all mating surfaces will be keyed, then its a big bonding & riveting extravaganza

 

As an aside the company I got the skin pins from said they only sell 1/4" to Saracen for holding the armour plate on their tanks. Maybe RH could thing about smaller rivets then an air riveter wouldn't be necessary

[Guest nikscott]

Chris, The dog died - you should ask what happened to him!

 

Fuel tank - mmmmmm its gonna be small

 

You watched it 25 times now thats scary

 

mmm my no.4 DVD doesnt seem to work will worry about it if i get that far.

 

I have got as far as building up the layers in the engine compartment - will post a pic tomorrow. Has anyone got a long way into the build - I was told they had sold 40 odd lw.

[Guest ScotMac]

Hey Nik, welcome. No, i think you may be the furthest along!!! Congrats!!! ;-)

 

I agree w/ you about the bonding. What glue are you using? And how exactly are you going to deburr? Just file it? ie, i haven't worked w/ aluminum rivetting much...is there any tool that makes the deburring easier? Also, what about the pre-drilled holes...are they deburred? Or are there no pre (factory) drilled holes???

 

In terms of the diffy, i assume that you mean once you rivet/glue, it can't be taken out. However, the rear plate can be taken off, i hope....in which case, the gearing can be swapped.

 

-sm

[Guest nikscott]

Hi Scotmac,

 

I haven't sourced a glue yet. Some of the panels do come pre drilled and those holes are good. But there are lots to drill, there are special tools but a big size drill will do it. All the panels have bad edges especially the plasma cut ones these can be filed - to do all the rough edges has taken days of preparation.

 

The way they have assembled the diff it definatley isnt removable. Are you talking about getting at it from the back & changing the crown wheel & pinion in situ? I am thinking about using rivnuts to make a removable section but i havnt got a real plan yet. Watch this space.

[Guest docter fox]

it's looking good, lots of pics needed throughout the build for this one

[E.Hunt]

wish I had that much space

[Guest ScotMac]

Wow Nik, great picture. I see what you mean about not EVEN being able to take off the back cover of the diff. That is disconcerting. Ya, maybe sometype of door mechanism, tho it may mess w/ the looks a bit.

 

Can you PLEASE do me a big favor?? Measure the front of that tranny tunnel??? I HAVE been trying to determine if a T5 will fit in this thing for about 2 months!!!

Also, i need to know how wide it is after it tapers back (ie, to make sure the chassis taper matches the tranny taper). The tranny tapers back to 5.5-6.0 inches, but i can't find the length of the main body right now. I think the OVERALL length is about 32 inches, so my guess is that the main body is about 11-15 inches.

 

Please let me know, if you get a chance to measure it.

 

Thanks.

[Guest Kieran]

I read this and thought of you Lightweighters.....

 

'Using composite aluminium panels enabled us to make immediate weight savings and employ lightweight construction techniques like adhesives'.

 

'To join the panels together we wanted to work with an adhesive supplier that could deliver a superior solution, offer guaranteed results and help us avoid labour intensive, time-consuming construction processes associated with complex metal bearing structures'.

 

'Huntsman hit the mark with Araldite 2015 epoxy paste that provides very strong yet flexible bonds, offers good impact, weather and high temperature resistance and is easy to apply'.

 

Search "composite fire engine" on google if you want to read the full article.

 

Countersink tools make excellent hole deburrers too.

 

Kieran