cb750

As Bob says, always service/replace brake parts both sides of an "axle" at the same time. I treat tyres the same.

This is what I did to support the spare wheel as the tube is not strong enough. The bracket bolts through reinforcement put behind the rear panel. As per the above post, the tube just holds the number plate

Looking at the dvla site the donor car reg number belongs to a 1970 PINK 2 litre Ford last taxed 1985/1986

Have just seen these on eBay. Might be of interest to someone on here?

Item 132817845963

Took advantage of the great weather to put some more miles on the Hood before laying her up at the end of the month. Out on the B roads it's superb, really warm! It's good to be retired!

Have you put the old distributor back in and see if the noise disappears? Is the engine pinking with no load on it?

Just had one of our cars mot'd and talked to the tester about changing bulbs in the lamps. He said to be careful with replacement bulbs and lamp units as the beam/spread pattern can come up as unacceptable at mot time particularly if the type of unit was not fitted as original equipment.

Depending upon the model of car that you have the transmission cover is welded in and forms part of the chassis spine for strength others have plates attached to chassis tubes. Mine's welded and I've been able to get to my switch by removing the shifter and I can just get my hand down to the switch to remove the plug but never tried to remove the switch. You may be able to get a switch in one handed, if not you could cut a hole in the side of the transmission tunnel to get it in.

Then I would make them out of aluminium sheet and then cover them as per your first post.

Are these the ones that are riveted to the doors and then drop over the frame when it's closed?

This is the sort of thing you should have

I've got a 3A monocoque but the front end is nothing like your photos so can't help you. Are you sure it's a Robin Hood?

Is this what you have?

http://accuspark.co.uk/Blackbox.htm

If so then it does timing and dwell.

Have you rung accuspark and spoke to them about the problem?

Thanks. My misfire started off random throughout the rev range. My wiring to the crank sensor comprised of a length of new wire from the edis soldered onto the last 100mm of the old wiring going into the sensor plug. I stripped the boot and the insulation off the old wiring but found no problems but replaced it anyway. I replaced the edis module and whether it was coincidence the misfire stopped being random and only appeared at around 4000 revs. If I accelerate slowly though that point the misfire doesn't happen so I put it down to a car problem (running Fireblade carbs with one of the air corrector jets blocked off).

Snapper, I never thought of the square wave requirements so I'm going to change both the sensor, plug and screened cable and see what happens. Hope I can get this done before sorning it in October!

Glad this has been sorted! Can anyone explain why the crank sensor faulty wiring would only show up at 4000rpm but is ok below and above that figure? I ask because I've got similar symptoms with my engine but the wiring has tested out ok with the engine not running

Thanks for getting back to me Steve. I've just spoken to Dave at Retroford and he's advised me that the best way forward for what I want to do is to use an N7 gearbox for which he can supply all the bits for the conversion. The main problem I've got is that I've got to convert the Sierra pedal box over to hydraulic clutch operation to link to the gearbox. So for the moment I'm afraid I'm going to have to leave it.

Rob

I am interested in the one with the gearstick. Are these 5 speed boxes? Can't make it out but which side is the starter motor on these (my pinto is on the passenger side).

My list shows 1965-84 Transit. Part numbers Delphi: TA298, QH: QD1117, Ford: 17996516. Right hand thread, 18mm

Although I like waxoyl I was recommended Dinitrol and have used that. It seems to creep better than waxoyl but also will drip easier!

None of my arp bolts came with the lubricant!

If you use the ARP bolts you should use the ARP assembly lubricant and make sure the holes have enough chamfer to take the bolt head radius

Are the Zetec bolts stretch type? If so you shouldn't reuse them as they will have already yielded when they were originally torqued up.

This is on the 22nd & 23rd September, has anybody been to this on previous years? Is it any good?

Certainly looks like metal to metal contact due to no oil film to me.

Looks like the bearing shell has smeared itself onto the crank surface probably due to low oil pressure. If it is then I've seen cranks polished to remove this but you need to check the crank for further damage and ovality. If it was me I would be looking at a regrind and new shells for peace of mind. You need to look at the main bearings as well as just the bid end ones.