gomatthome

whilst I was passing GBS the other day in the zero popped in to get them to have a quick look at my knocking problem. (still waiting to get a slot to get geometry checked)

they suggested that i had my ride height too high leaving no travel on the shocks. I knew I had it set higher than normal but this was to get over various large speed bumps in sheffield.

Anyway rolled car into workshop and quickly took off rear wheels and adjusted ride height then did same at front end.

Knocking gone.

Not sure if this is the solution to all knocking but it worked for me just have to avoid those speed bumps.

phil

I had the car in to Torque Tune yesterday and Russ did a nice job sorting out my honda fireblade carbs.

After 3 hrs of his magic car running very sweet and the dyno finally showed 120 BHP at the rear wheels which for a 2l pinto unmodified is impressive.

I would have no problem recommending him to any other members in need of his services,

phil

took her out for a test drive yesterday evening still some knocking will try a few notches harder and see what happens. failing thet will be interested to see if GBS sort out when I take in.

phil

I hope to be there. I am however taking / collecting my eldest from hospital that day as he is having knee surgery so I guess it depends on what time he gets discharged.

phil

My loose top suspension bolt did cure a lot of the knocking but its still there. I intend putting a few extra clicks on the suspension settings to see if I can get rid without making ride too hard.

I am on GBS list to get my suspension set up checked front and rear so if this comes up with anything will post up results.

phil

Turned out to be slack top shock bolt tightened up problem sorted

Thanks for the suggestions and to nicko for popping over and lending a pair of hands

Phil

I actually raised the ride height because the floor of the car was hitting speed bumps even at low speeds so the springs are more compressed the floor is now 4.25 inches clearance at rear 4 at front.

will stiffening the adjuster still help?

phil

I ended up with four clicks from soft this gives me the best drive

Hi it has only started since I softened the shocks but I get a much better ride the knocking happens only when driving over bumps which as you know the roads up here are difficult to avoid

Not driven very far yet since on the road so have not tracked the location down yet but it seems to be comming from top of passenger side rear I am sure everything is tightened up but will check again

Phil

Adjusted ride height and softened gaz suspension and have a mech better feel

However I seem to have what I can describe as a mechanical clunking sound comming from rear suspension

Can't seem to see where this might be comming from any zero owners had similar problem or can suggest what I should be looking for

Phil

can anyone suggest a supplier of bright red wing piping

thanks

phil

i know when i built mine i had to take the rh hub off and move to the LHS and take the LHS off and move to the RHS this was so as to enable the holes to line up with the hub carrier did you do this. will have a look tonight to see if the cylinders are to the front or rear of the car.

the other thing I was told by GBS is that if you are using their small hand break then you need to use the hole nearest to the handle as the one furthest away does not give you sufficient force to pass iva.

phil

I have a full set of front and rear gaz adjustable shocks which came off my 2b

Just built a zero so have just put a new set on as the zero uses differnt size and springs

I was intending to post on the for sale forum but if you are interested pm me

They originally came from dampertec so are specifically for the 2b and are in good condition

Will be going to stone lee so can deliver

Phil

I had to change mine so went for a quick rack

I had to change mine when building the zero

thanks think the 240 but will check first then order

Nb got the chance to put car over test pit and found that the connections to the rear break drums were damp so this might also be causing breaks not to function to full effect. Have tightened up just need to bleed and try again.

If that does not work will alter the pivot point of the break pedal as suggested.

thanks for the suggestions guy's

Phil

Don't suppose anyone has the mintex part number for the sierra front hubs

Phil

I know its far too late but if anyone reads this post before setting off tonight I am looking to borrow a carb balancing meter. If anyone has one that i can borrow it would be appreciated.

phil

Hope to be there

phil

A mechanic friend of mine has the following engines for sale and whilst not necessarily hood engines he is happy for me to put on the forum in case anyone is interested.

i am told that the engines have all been refurbished and bench tested and are painted blue but are sold with no warranty as being offered privately.

he is looking for £100 ono for each to be collected from Sheffield.

engines as follows:-

Cavalier 1.6 8v unchipped mark 2 big block

Ford escort mk 3 1.1 cvh (not ovh)

fiesta 1000cc 8v distributor driven (1980's ish)

fiesta 1000cc 8v dist driven (1980's ish)

Anyone interested let me know.

Phil

i Have recently finished (almost) my zero build and took it out for a short spin for a test.

My old 2b had the servo but the zero dispenses with the servo. Not having driven without a servo before i am not sure whats normal in terms of the pressure you need to apply to the breaks. I have to press very hard not sure if this is normal or whether I have i set up my breaks incorrectly.

I know its a difficult thing to describe in writing but any comments on what is the amout of pressure needed when not using a servo assisted system would be appreciated.

Phil

i don't want a shortened sump so i will leave it to steve to make the purchase

many thanks

phil

Yes would love it how much do you want

Phil

Will start and run on tick over but if i try to apply any pressure on the accelerator then it just stalls so at the moment I could not get it down to Talk Tune.

Yesterday received the timing light so will set up this weekend (should be able to get it to tick over at 1000rpm) and will see if that helps and then will try messing around with the idle screw as peter suggests.

Any other suggestions welcome.

phil

chassis now sold

phil