alanrichey

Be interested to hear how you get on, but are you going to run into problems because the Rover T16 is designed to run with a pressurised cooling system ?    Like you I have always found the top hose to be empty when the engine is cold, but it hasn't had any effect on the cooling system and fills up when the engine is hot.  My Superspec happily runs at 90-93C and I haven't had to top up the expansion bottle for over a year.

10 hours ago, geordie40 said:

I can check on my wiring diagram to see if the TPS is connected to ECU but I think your right. On the rover MEMS you can reset the TPS so it remeasures the steps from fully open to closed, not sure if it's the same for yours but if you turn ign to position 2 and press accelerator 5 times in quick succession you should then hear a series of clicks from TPS as it resets

I think Geordie is a bit confused here.  The Throttle Position Sensor is sensed by the ECU but that is for general use right across the rev range.  The Idle system in the MEMS ECU is a completely separate set of parameters.  It is incredibly complicated and the ECU actually tracks  6 different parameters:

Idle switch
Idle Set Point
Idle Hot
Idle Error
Idle Base Position
IAC Position

I have yet to find anyone (apart from the Rover engineers who designed it) who actually understands what all these do and how the idle is affected.    Even all the documentation we have on the MEMS is a bit vague.  What I do know is that when you shut down the engine the ECU runs on for about 10 seconds.  During that time it resets the stepper motor to the proper position for starting and then idling then continually adjusts the stepper motor based on engine temperature.   So if the different ECU is not carrying out that action as well, it might explain the low idle.   I suggest you PM Jeremy Richardson (jmspec), as he is the only other person I know who has used a different ECU on a turbo Rover T16.   He might be able to advise you on the wiring.

Al

Which engine do you have ?  If it's the standard Rover T16 that is rated at 136 bhp for the normally aspirated version and 200 bhp for the turbo, so you are definitely in the ball park.  Interested to see you have a proper ECU fitted.  Like Geordie I still have the non-programmable MEMS 1.6 ECU fitted and I suspect the engine might have been tuned down a bit when they changed the software to disable the immobiliser.  I also suspect they tweaked the idle speed as we all seem to idle about 950-1000 rpm whereas the T16 is supposed to idle at 850 rpm.  No idea why they would do that.

Also glad to get confirmation that blocking off one of the exhaust outlets helps the system.  I just had a feeling in the water that mine ran a lot better with a bung in  (Update:  it blew out yesterday so I have to get a new one ).  To every one's surprise, unlike the last 5 MOTs where the emissions were marginal, my car sailed through the emissions test at last MOT.   I had run through a bottle of injector cleaner and the day before the MOT I did a 40 min run using just 3rd gear and keeping the RPM above 4000.  Might be a coincidence but I will do the same for the next one.

Can't hear the clunk on the video but Geordie's suggestion on the UV joints is a good one.   Like him, I find it incredibly difficult to grease the front one as you have to go from the top of the tunnel around the gear change.   A job I have now delegated to my friendly mechanic   I also have a small amount of play in the transmission somewhere, maybe 5-10 degs of rear wheel rotation when I have her on axle stands.  But it's been like that for 23,000 miles so I don't let it worry me.

Whatever the official gear (it came with the kit) is made from.   Vinyl ? Plastic ?

My Robin Hood wet weather roof has spent 99.9% of it's 12-year life scrunched up on the back of the car (see picture on the right of my signature).    Put it up today to check and apart from needing the perspex windows cleaned it is still in remarkably good condition.  But I did wonder if I should be treating it with something to ensure it remains relatively supple and doesn't crack ? (It is stored in a garage so rarely sees the sun).

3mm     Been like that for 8 years.   Excuse the dirt, just been out for a long run.  Glorious.

Mine is vinyl covered MDF    I actually added some foam as well as I prefer a thicker profile to rest my elbow on.

Looks nice.  Be interested to see how she now performs at the emissions test.

OK, a few points first:

1.   Your statement that the sensor is reading something is not correct.  When you start the engine the ECU puts a voltage of 0.435 V across the sensor so that it subsequently swings between 0.1V and 0.9V to signify lean and rich mixtures.  So what you are seeing is the sensor NOT reading anything.

2.   it's no surprise that the car is running OK.  The car will run perfectly with a failed sensor, in fact it will run better without a sensor than with a working sensor because the Rover engineers set the default mixture to slightly rich if there is no reading from the sensor.  The downside is that will fail any emissions test.

3.   Once the engine starts the ECU gives the sensor anywhere between 1:00 min and 2:00 mins to start working.  If it doesn't get a signal by then it enters the 'limp home' mode and uses the default settings.

4.  I need to see your log file to check, but if it never starts to work then either the sensor is not working or the wiring has failed.  If, however it stutters (see picture) then it could be interference, you may have disturbed the wiring while fitting the new exhaust.  I had similar readings until I replaced the lambda signal wire (between the lambda sensor and the loom up around the alternator/water pump with shielded cable, making sure it was earthed at only one end.

Can you send me the logfile ?

Al

I could not reach all the electrics mounted on the firewall on the passenger side, so I went for a more flexible solution.   I removed all of the dash but left about 3/4" all round the scuttle.   I then built 3 sections out of MDF, put some captive bolts on to go through holes in the remaining metal rim and then covered them with vinyl.  The centre panel is solidly mounted and the side panels are just push fits.  In that way I can just take out either of the 2 side panels if I need to access the electrics or the brake system or the back of the instrument panel.

+1   for Showroom Shine (from Greased Lightning)  https://www.amazon.co.uk/Greased-Lightning-Showroom-Waterless-Polish/dp/B006MDJM0I/ref=asc_df_B006MDJM0I/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310744208542&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=636147846911812438&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006745&hvtargid=pla-566103496318&psc=1

I was also unable to find a set of blades with that fitment to the arm.  I eventually managed to find a set I could attach with the 2 screws but I had to grind off the side bars as they were too narrow to fit over the spade.   So I think you will have to do some surgery whatever you get.   I actually managed to fit 10" ones as well, not a lot of clearance but a much better sweep than the previous 7" ones.

Just for interest, I found that when I added a loud buzzer and a high intensity LED light to my system (I don’t have a self cancel and was forever leaving an indicator on) then, because of the extra current drain, the normal diagnosis of indicator frequency doubling if a bulb failed, didn’t work anymore.  So I have to regularly check they are still working while in the garage.

On 4/11/2020 at 9:19 AM, geordie40 said:

Is there any reason to up the bore size slightly? currently my pipe is 2" but was thinking of upping to 2.5" (get gas out quicker)

I've discussed this on the forum before.  My Superspec has the standard twin outlet from the silencer.  On the advice of a Club member I actually blanked off one of the pipes with a bung to see if it helped the emissions (a long standing problem with the Superspec).   To my surprise the car ran appreciably better, much sharper, better throttle reaction.....   Discussions at Car Shows ("why have you blocked off the exhaust ?") seemed to show the the better performance came from increasing the back pressure in the system, which the engine seemed to like.   Obviously the exhaust system was never designed or tuned for the engine it was just made of parts that Robin Hood Engineering to get hold of, so the explanation made sense to me. 

So I would think that increasing the bore size would actually reduce the back pressure and have a negative effect.  And the same effect would be seen by removing the cat, as that would also reduce the back pressure.   So I will be very interested in the result, but it may not be what you expect.

Am I wrong or did the Stilton Cheese Run always benefit a national charity (Air Ambulance ?)

I see the 3 options are a refund, transfer it to next year or give it to Uppingham.   I would actually like to give it to a national charity so I guess I will have to ask for a refund and then do it individually.

Interesting, first time I have heard of a Type 9 being used in a Superspec.   Nice to hear of another one still running.   We think there were about 50 actually sold and we still have a handle on about 15 of them.

If you let me know the engine number (it's on the V5), I can tell you what car your engine was destined for, which makes it easier for ordering parts.   I also have a ton of documentation on the engine which you are welcome to.   Finally I highly recommend you run my ECU diagnosis software to make sure everything is working OK.

It’s been a standing problem for all SuperSpecs.  I must admit I don’t have any experience of the Duratec engine as I have the Rover ‘T’.  I’m on my second sump having holed my first one.  I managed to gain a bit by winding up the shocks And I then fitted a fairly heavy duty stainless guard.  So I still ground fairly often but it is the guard that takes the punishment.
 

I’m sure other Superspec owners will have other ideas.

Interesting, on mine none of them were welded but 7 out of the 8 bolt heads were crimped into the runners so they wouldn't turn.   So I could easily undo the nuts from underneath and remove the passenger seat.   On the drivers rear inboard the bolt just kept turning.   However, with 3 of the 4 bolts removed I got my wife to push the seat sideways enough to jam the bolt head so I could remove the nut.

I agree.   But make sure you top up with the proper MT75 oil, which is specially designed to last for the life of the gearbox.   Ordinary gear oil is not sufficient.

I drilled one hole at the top to feed the wire through, then a slightly larger on where the roll bar goes into the body.  I fed some string through the hole and once it appeared at the bottom hole I then borrowed my wife's crochet hook to grab the string.   Then I attached the string to the wire and pulled it through.  Obviously if the bottom of your roll bar is open then you don't need to do that.  Mine has solid ends for some reason.

I also drilled the roll bar, as I didn't want to have the wire showing.   As a temporary fix I just used black plastic insulating tape at each end to hold the LED bar in position.    That was in August 2016 and it is still perfect so it moved from a temporary fitting to a permanent one

Someone in the Club recommended 'Showroom Shine' from Greased Lightning (https://www.greasedlightning.co.uk/)

It is superb, cleans and polishes in one go.   The bottle lasts for years.

I actually tried this a couple of years ago.  See http://the-superspec-journey.blogspot.com/2016/09/gave-her-good-wash-yesterday-and.html

I just replaced one side and then took the car to the Greetham classic car meet to ask for opinions.   It was unanimous, everyone preferred the originals, much brighter and easier to see.   However, I will admit they were cheap Chinese ones off E-Bay so maybe it wasn't a valid test compared to the CBS ones.

Did you not have the original door hinges ?   I simply fabricated some brackets from stainless steel and put them on the same bolts as the original door hinge so I could continue to put the doors on if required.

Yes.   See https://www.greatbritishsportscars.com/blog/gbs-cars-amp-coffee-event-update

As I'm over 70 I won't be there