alanrichey

After a successful inaugural meeting we are going to follow the same pattern and go for a Sunday Lunch get together on 18th May. Gives everyone 2 weeks to recover from Stoneleigh.. Location this time is the Woodcocks Pub near Lincoln, timing to be confirmed but probably 12:00. http://www.marstonst...ncoln/Woodcocks Burton Lane End Saxilby Road Lincoln LN1 2BE So far I have 25 positive responses from Me (Ruth still needs persuading) Ian & Carole Johnson (Ian & Carole) Peter & Annie Lloyd (dill-is-green) Richard Keyse (richard7) Tom Scott (toms2b) Nigel and Helen Duncan (niduncan) Rex Leaning (rex leaning) Andrew, Gill & Tabby Osbourne (ozz) Mick & Stella Ebbs (mower man) Richard Marsh + 2 (steamer) (NEW Chairman) Dan, Sue & Kiera Elliot(Dan E) Kerry & Sharon Allen (Kerry) Derek & Marilyn Oldfield (Derek) And maybe's from: Stephen & Tracy Hopkins (Hoppo) Peter & Anne Lee (Pete Lee) Nick Orwin (Nicko) Simon Parish (simonp73) David Howe (Hawknorth) As usual everyone from the Club is welcome, please let me know either on here or by PM so I can give the pub a rough idea of numbers. Can't promise the weather will be as good as last time, fingers crossed. Cheers Al

My Superspec has always done this, although it does actually crank but VERY Slowly. Luckily it always catches. I asked for advice on it a few months ago and the general concensus was: 1. Poor Earth strap from engine to chassis. I put one on and it made no difference. 2. ECU leaving ignition too far advanced when engine is hot. 3. Engine just generally tight when hot. My battery sits at 12.5V when ignition switches, and like yours cranks the cold engine no problem. Although I did note the battery voltage drops to 9.7V on initial crank quickly recovering to 10.5V. So it might be a bit dodgy. Be interested if you do find the solution,

Added to diary. Should be able to make it.

And what a great day out it was. Weather held off and we had a lovely 40-mile formation drive through the countryside with a coffee break at the New Lodge Farm and lunch at the Bell Inn at Stilton. And we were joined by 300+ other cars as well Roll on next year !!

Clever

Tried that, but unfortunately the basic extension of the jack (80mm) still doesn't lift the chassis high enough to lift the wheels. It's looking like I need a low scissor jack.

I've been carrying one of these around in the car for a year but in the garage I have been using a much larger jack. So yesterday I thought I should do a practice wheel change rather than wait till I have to do it for real. The front was no problem, I just put the jack under the wishbone. But in the rear I couldn't find a logical place to put the jack. If I tried to jack up any of the chassis points or the diff then at the full extent of the jack the wheel wasn't clear of the ground. And the bottom of the trailing arm/suspension unit is too close to the ground to get the jack under. The only solution I could see was to put the jack under the axle itself, but I don't want to risk that in case I bend the axle. Do I need to get a lower (scissor) jack to fit under the suspension arm or am I safe using the axle ? What do other people use ? Al

I reckon 'Wheeler Dealers' is superior to both these programmes Much more technical detail on how the cars are renovated and none of the childish arguments that they delight in on Classic Car Rescue. Just my opinion of course, Standing by to be flamed

This is not aimed for any specific person, but just a reminder to everyone what a fantastic source of knowledge exists on this forum.. Having just put a thermostat into my Superspec (the previous owner took it out) I had major overheating problems. After a frustrating day trying to sort it out I did what I should have done in the first place and looked on the forum. I found lots of useful explanations of what could be wrong, and a few posts that described my symptoms exactly and how to cure it. Result: A 10 mile run out today and the gauge stayed firmly in the Normal range. So to all involved "Thanks for the advice". In these 'interesting' times let's not forget what this Club is all about Cheers Al (BTW, It was all down to airlocks, full details in my blog)

Was it Kit Car Bitz you tried ? (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Kit-Car-Bitz/102680786584037?ref=stream) ? If so just persevere. It took 10 days for them to answer my three E-Mails to their Hotmail address. I wanted Oxford Blue and they had none in stock but built me some one-offs for £55/pair. They were then 10 days late on delivery but I have to say they are of good quality and importantly, 9.5" wide, which as you have probably found are difficult to source. The only problem for me was that they were 2" shorter (front to back) than the standard SuperSpec ones, but that was easily solved by fabricating an auxiliary mounting. (See http://the-superspec-journey.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/fit-new-front-wing.html) Cheers Al

Yes

Also worth adding that unlike most of the 2Bs, which used a donor car for the build, all the parts on the Superspec, with the exception of a reconditioned rear axle, were brand new (unless previous owner has modified them).

Engine and gearbox are fine, but not necessarily together . Superspecs are known for a 'rattle' in neutral because they were not mated together correctly. You should be able to hear it on startup. I love my Superspec, check out my blog (in the signature line)

No, full wishbone with zimmer shocks (Sorry, took too long to post so repeated Ian's post)

When that happened to me I eventually traced it to a poorly fitting cap on the expansion bottle. (It's a Superspec so that is the equivalent of the radiator cap)

I think the bottom of the front suspension is also a giveaway for the Superspec. Wasn't it the only one to have 4 sets of pre-drilled holes in the lower wishbone for the bottom of the shocks ? Or did the later wishbone conversions have the holes ?

I tried and failed to split mine using the tool you had. Finished up getting one of these and did it easily.

Thanks. Found bugsy, although I see he isn't a member and hasn't been on the forum since last August. Nothing under sam fox though ?

Nice idea, but mine start with SSP0404

Nigel, Steve & Joe. Added to the list thanks. Steve: I thought we all had sump guards 100 kits ? So far I have found 14, so some way to go. I know Richard Stewart still has one unbuilt one in his lockup. I'm hoping someone has a part-built one somewhere that they want to clear out for the room, so I can buy a cheap 'donor' car for spare parts. And not sure about chassis number, the previous owner told me he made it up, although that also has a load of 7s, so maybe you are right.

Great thanks. Replacements are on my long-term list, although these are now 5 years old In fact just got back from a 45 minutes run along our country lanes and the gum shield is loose

Having adjusted the front shockers (Zimmers) to improve the sump clearance I thought it might be an idea to wind up the rear shocks a bit to level the car and stop the exhaust mounting from grounding. Problem was that when I tried to turn the adjusting nut and locknut all that happened was the shocker rotated. Am I missing something simple or am I going to have to take them off? or fabricate some way of gripping the lower threaded part without damaging it ?

I don't want to start a 'club within a club', but I thought it might be useful if we kept a database of Superspec owners. That way we know who to go for for Superspec advice, who lives relatively close, who has what engine, and who is going to what car show so we can meet up and discuss Superspec-specific issues. From trawling the forum, I have come up with the following current active owners: alanrichey (Al) - Swayfield, Lincs - (Rover 2.0 + MT75 Gearbox) QuadraDave (Dave) - ??? - ??? Al Milton (Al) - Ramsgate,Kent - (Zetec) maw (Matthew) - Leicester- ??? edbond (Ed) - Worcester - (Rover 2.0 + MT75 Gearbox) Redspec (Steve) - Co Durham - (Rover 2.0 + MT75 Gearbox) steven (Steven) - N. Ireland- ??? jwts (John) - Herne- ??? Pete the Dog (Peter) - Welshpool - ??? owlman (Jonathan) - Warlingham, Surrey - (Zetec) Crazy chris3rd (Chris) - Merthyr Tydfil - 2.3 Galaxy + MT75 Have I missed anyone ? Anyone not want to be included in a more detailed private one (full addresses) ? Can we fill in the gaps ? Anything else we need to know that is relevant ? Cheers Al

Good luck Andi. And thanks everyone for kind comments about the 'all-clear', but I have to be realistic and accept that it will most likely return in the future. But here's hoping it's a few years away

Yes I had a look through the tunnel top with all the covers removed to see if I could see it but chickened out when it wasn't obvious and it looked like I may have to actually dismantle the gear change mechanism to get a better access. Have to decide which method is easier. While I was rotating the prop shaft I was a bit surprised to see the flange between the CV joint and the gearbox only had 3 bolts in although there appear to be 6 holes ? The previous owner said it was like that when he picked it up from GBS so assumed ti was correct ?