alanrichey

Yes the pedal end looks fine, but it is at least 700mm too short and I can't see enough of the engine end to see if it will fit. The QCC 1303 (EBay Item 321169257790) looks as though it has a smaller bush at the engine end, but still come with a nipple. I don't really want to keep buying clutch cables on the chance they might fit :-) I guess need to get off my backside and go to a proper parts distributor :-)

OK, got a QCC 1240 clutch cable off EBay but unfortunately it isn't going to be the quick fix I hoped. The length is fine, but the bush at the clutch end is larger than the hole in the bell housing so it is not going to be a nice fit. I might be able to live with that but the other problem is that the pedal end has a nipple (as does the QCC 1303 from what I can see) whereas the exisiting cable has an eye at the end so it is simply attached to the clutch pedal with a bolt. I assume there should have been some sort of connector that takes the cable/nipple and can be bolted onto the clutch pedal and the previous owner removed it when he replaced the cable with his 'bodged' version. Can't see anything on E-Bay, but I guess it must be a pretty standard piece of kit ? Anyone any ideas ? And I can see what Peter means about the mislignment between the release arm and the hole in the bell housing, but I think extending the release arm is well beyond my ability Have to live with it and just keep checking it.

Don't think so, it definately has bolts on both sides. Haven't taken them out yet to check.

I have a fair bit if play in the bottom CV joint on the steering column despite tightening both bolts. So I suspect the CV joint will need changing before the next MOT. Does anyone know if it is a generic part or a special-to-type ? Do I just need to measure the width of the column ? Thanks Al Later: Is this it ? http://www.kitspares.co.uk/shop/item.php?cat=15&product=8972&catsub=0

I need one of these as well. Can I get it off the Burton Power website ?

Sounds good

First timer for this, What do people recommend as far as insurance is concerned ? Extension to existing policy or standalone one-day cover ? (I'm with Adrian Flux at the moment)

Great, thanks

Oh, Conflicting views :-) How about these: VOLVO 340 1.4 CLUTCH CABLE 82/91 QCC1240 NOS QH CLUTCH CABLE QCC1337 FORD GRANADA,SCORPIO,SIERRA,SAPPHIRE 2.0i DOHC

Could anyone tell me what clutch cable to ask for as a replacement for the one on my SuperSpec (Rover 'T' Series engine with Ford M75 Gearbox, no idea which clutch, Rover or Ford ?). The previous owner used a handbrake cable as an emergency replacement when the clutch cable broke and I would like to fit the proper item.

Being a bit dense here, but how do I access the Members Benefit Section ? Can't see a link anywhere. Later: Ignore this, just found it. Didn't realise it was in the Forums Listings.

Thanks, all makes sense. Also, should have checked Wikipedia before asking the question "....Some warning indicator circuits are equipped with a resistor in parallel with the lamp that permit excitation current to flow if the warning lamp burns out....".

Thanks, sounds good. I'll post the result

Ah, I missed that as well :-) So I did mention an LED. Sorry. Sorry, are you saying I need another 100 Ohm resistor in parallel with my additional filament bulb ? Surely adding another bulb is going to increase the current anyway making the alternator even more excited :-)

OK, my apologies, I don't seem to have explained myself very well as none of the answers relate to my problem and I didn't actually mention LED. Let me try again. The present system appears to be (The Robin Hood Wiring Diagram only gives colours of wires, not functionality so it's a bit of a guess),: 1. A wire from the alternator arrives at the Blue Connector plug to the back of the instrument cluster. I can access this wire under the dash. 2. When I examine the back of the cluster (not the one on the car, I have a spare one), I can see that printed circuit connection from the appropriate connector goes through a diode to one side of the the Alternator Warning Light (I almost certain it's a filament bulb. Were LEDs actually in use when the SuperSpec was sold ?) and the other side of the warning light is tied to 12V (ignition live). In addition, there is a 100 Ohm resistor on the circuit board in parallel with the lamp. Now I do NOT intend to take the cluster off and try and solder direct to the circuit board, that comes under the 'too much hassle' heading. Now, these lamps are tiny, so I can understand the logic of them adding an extra resistor to ensure a large enough current flow to excite the alternator. So all I am really asking is can I now put another lamp, probably filament, between the alternator output and 12V (ignition switched), without any extra components and without disturbing the existing setup ? or will this somehow screw up the charging/warniing system. ? Hope that makes more sense. Al

OK, makes sense. But I wasn't intending on removing the original one in the cluster, just augmenting it. So what if I simply put my new lamp in parallel with the original, so that they both light up and the 100 Ohm resistor keeps the current high enough to excite the alternator. Will that do any harm ?

Hi all, more electrical advice needed :-) After driving my Superspec a few times I realised the warning lights are very difficult to see, a combination of positioning, angle of the cluster mounting and reflection off the plastic screen. So I decided to put additional warning lights high on the dash on the right. The indicator and oil pressure lights were simple, I just took a tapping off the back of the cluster and used that to put warniing lights in parallel. But the alternator light worries me a bit, and reading all the historical posts on the subject gives conflicting advice. The problem is that, unlike the Oil and Indicator warning lights, which are directly fed from the instrument cluster connector, the alternator light goes through a diode and has a 100 Ohm resistor across the connections, both on the printed circuit on the back of the cluster. So I didn't want to risk just taking a tapping from the connector. So: 1. If I do take a tapping off the instrument cluster connector do I need to have an additional 100 Ohm resistor across the connections ? Or is this going to screw something up ? (As I recall 2 x 100 OHms in parallel = 50 Ohms ?) 2. What exactly is the purpose of the resistor across the connections ? 3. I saw on one post that current needs to flow both ways, so you need a bulb, not an LED, but in that case why has the existing one got a diode in circuit ? 4. Would I better off taking a tapping direct off the alternator ? if so would I need a diode and the resistor as well ? Thanks Al

Good, thanks to both.

Thinking of adding a 12V socket to my RH Superspec to charge my iPhone (use it as a satnav and that kills the battery). Previous owner suggested I take a tapping off one of two switches on the dashboard (both of which are live all the time, independent of the igntion switch), but said I MUST install a diode in the circuit. it's a few years since I played with auto-electrics, but I don't ever recall diodes being mentioned. Has something changed ? Anything else I need to be aware of ? Thanks Al

Reality is an illusion brought on by the lack of alcohol.

Thanks for the picture, it explains my confusion. That plastic cover doesn't exist on my engine although I can see the 4 holes to mount it. I have attached a picture of mine, what I see is a piece of plastic the length of the engine with various clips on it to take the HT leads and then the 4 leads coming out with rubber 'boots' on each lead that 'appear' to be integral with the plastic. Tugging on the individual leads/boots has no apparent effect and as I said, I don't want to pull too hard in case I break something. And although the plastic piece is nominally loose (You can see the 2 bolts in the middle are missing)I cannot easily pull that up either. Sorry to be a pain about this. I'm torn between the 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' and wanting to check the colour of the plugs to see if it is running a bit rich (it only just passed the emission check at the MOT)

Actually they are missing on mine, the cover is loose :-) Have to find some replacements. Assuming we are talking about the piece of plastic that has the various clips on it to hold the HT leads ?

Many thanks, I'll give it a try

Slightly off-topic here, as my Rover engine is running fine, but I am having trouble accessing the spark plugs (brand new owner of a built SuperSpec) to check condition. Do I need to remove the long plastic cover first, if so how, or can I just pull on one of the leads individually. I have pulled fairly hard with no success but did want to risk any more force in case I am missing something. Is there a trick ? Al