Dean Roberts

Looking across the forums, it seems the mx5 (6 speed) gearbox is far wider than the type 9, But the mx5 (5 speed) is the one that most people look for.as supposed to be a lot slimmer. Bit of an interesting read here about a Mazda duratec engine and type 9 vs 6 speed vs 5 speed gearboxes: http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=194900 Other things discussed is the angle of the gearbox and the hydraulic clutch

I'll be watching this, as I like the idea of a small lightweight engine in the 2B, The mx5, toyota or Nissan engines all look like good engines to fit, but I imagine the wiring would be difficult. I believe Zach has an MX5 engine in his Zero (unsure about the gearbox): http://zachsgbszero.blogspot.co.uk/2013_02_01_archive.html If it fits a tiny Zero, then I imagine it would fit in a 2B, especially when I look under my 2B and see a hulking A4LD gearbox wedged in the tunnel

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=bike+carb+filter+pipercross&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1 The backplate will be dependant on the type of carbs your have fitted. DANST has custom backing plates that you could cut to size or buy ready made for certain types: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/danstengineering?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 I'm looking at the moment, but they are very expensive, so I might just use the wife's stockings until I have a little more dosh Another option might be to just buy the piperX socks with cable ties and fit those if they will fit under the bonnet: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pipercross-Trumpet-Air-Filter-Socks-1-Pair-DCOE-DHLA-C1050-/391099364532?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5b0f56b4b4

Does this picture bring back memories: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wellseal-old-blue-gasket-tube-classic-car-collectable-95-grammes-size-used-/381215025678?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item58c22faa0e

Guys, save me messing about with making gaskets etc, the old one is in very good condition. Is it worth the risk trying to use the old one and carefully use a gasket sealant to make sure? I have read on a couple of US forums that gasket sealant is a big no,no....just encase any particles get into the gearbox and bugger it up. I would have thought the filter in the pan would stop this?

Richard I think you may be right for a partial drain and refill. After finding this very useful manual online and looking at page 34: ftp://ftp.capri.pl/user/mkozlowsk/A4LD.pdf remove pan drain fluid replace gasket install pan add 2.3 litres of fluid thru filler tube check levels Even better, it has information on the vacuum servo etc....which affect gear changes and the part I have updated recently and may need to look into after the initial test drive. A bit of a blessing, instead of drilling holes I get to make gaskets and shop around for the correct gear oil and end the night with a little bed time reading for the kids - "Introduction to the Ford A4LD Service Manual"

Thank you for the enlightenment.... Aaaaahhh....Now I see. I doesn't physically make the steel stronger, but stiffens the panels to stop flexing. Hence the wobble board and the strange sounds that came from Rolf Harris in the past (or was that something else)

Sorry I'm blonde (bald, but blonde), how does it make the steel stronger? I thought that compressing the steel would stretch it and make it weaker.

Nah...Just 18 bolts in the gearbox pan and a lot of lovely red fluid. Nikki is in the process of getting a 3mm chequered plate welded across the bottom and front as we speak. The worse bit is filling it back up, I have just read the filler whole is situated behind the passenger side tunnel wall. So tonight will be a spent removing the passenger side interior (again for the third time in a year) and drilling a large whole in the tunnel wall and making a panel for easier access for the future.

Please explain....why the hell don't they put a drain plug on the gearbox.....arrrrggghh. I have a good mind to drill a bloody great hole in the pan after the welding and tap a screw whole for a plug for next time I have to drain it. The garage floor never had a drop of oil on it until last night.... Oh....I also discovered a that the gearbox is not what I thought, so don't start laughing! Yes it's an auto...18 bolts and a A4LD (which is supposed to be a 3 speed (+ 4th overdrive).... Seems I haven't been fast enough to get the overdrive or the electronic solenoid has been disconnected.... It was a 10 minute job to remove (but hours to clean up the mess) Meantime, the money pot is filling up for Nikki's 40th birthday (many years away yet).....pheww, close call to divorce. But if she continues to abuse the car then the funds will be re-allocated to a engine and gearbox conversion. After finding Pinto & A4LD parts getting rare/expensive and the addition of a swift conversation to Tractor & seeing Steamers work on the supercharging an MX5... Sorely tempted to stick a supercharged MX5 into the 2B (with a manual...of course). Only time, money and circumstances will tell.

Dan, terrible news, but I have the utmost confidence that you will hold your head high and get thru this with gritted teeth, cursing, smashing and defiant determination. Hopefully you will source and fit a replacement engine in no time and the guys on RHOCAR will more than likely provide all the sarcasm, morale and physical support required... Life can be such a colourful affair with lots of pitfalls. But remember whatever knocks you down, will always make you stronger and wiser when you get back up..... .....and usually poorer (concerning cars) PS - Makes my broken gearbox sump look pathetic now...

Cheers guys....something to look at while the car is back on the ramps for the gearbox.

I hoping I can cross this one off the list, I changed the rocker cover and gasket in Feb as the original one was leaking Unless it's sneaking down the inside of the timing belt cover and out of visual sight...mmmm

Luckily...no issues with fuel leaks....YET Just wondered why there seems to be a lot of oil leaking around that area and would like to trace it. I don't think it's the distributor, as it quite new and the o-ring shouldn't perish in less than a year. After some of the suggestions I then started looking around the fuel pump and thought I would try the easy cheapest options first. Is the fuel pump gasket easy to change without much messing about? If this fixes the issue, then all well and good. If not, then it's onto what David suggested - aux shaft oil seal (after stripping the front end down if Feb, it can wait until it SORN again).

Chris, strangely enough, it does have more poke.....but still not enough to keep me happy Also before the incident with the sump being ripped open by a steel gate post footing (not even a speed bump) the brakes & gearbox felt a lot more lively. But I will admit the drive all around the country lanes of Coleshill in the morning was very refreshing and the first time I felt happy with the reliability and speed of the car. So getting the sump fixed and tracking down the oil leak around the distributor/fuel pump will be essential in the list of things to do on the nights after work this week.

anybody ever had any issues with oil leaking from the distributor on pinto engine.... Or around that area... Cannot quite make out if every time I drive the car it's the distribution or the fuel pump leaking oil. At least I know where the bloody leak is coming from on the gearbox sump....... Thanks for grounding it Nikki...! Oh well accidents will happen (shame it was the cars first time on the road this year).

Cheers Dan, I gather I will need to drain what's left of the gearbox oil. Remove sump and get a welder to fix it. Then refit fixed sump with new gasket. Top up with new oil?

Great action movie and Jason statham steals the show. Hopefully we don't get any more follow ups. Won't be the same without Mr Walker & the cast that have been around for the last 12 years.

Tickets & babysitter booked...going to see it today. Me & Missus are big F & F fans, as long as it has lots of action, stunts, fights, explosions and (of course) cars, then we leave our brains at the door and enjoy the ride. It's not gonna win any Oscars, but its pure entertainment and the sort of thing we enjoy on the big screen. TIA for not leaving any spoilers

Chris, the beer is working and just got me thinking about what 2b cruising (Ken) suggested about swapping carbs. I have another set of fireblade carbs in the garage....Not sure they are the same year/model. But they look the same, do you think we could mix a match.... I'm sure I read somewhere that you should never mix them and always stick to the same sets? Any ideas? something to ponder overnight with another beeeeeeeer

Holy moly.....that ford breather is well and truly stuck. Gonna be a bitch to remove, without removing the bike carbs to gain leverage. Might resort to butchering the old elbow and drill out the valve, until I can remove the old henry ford breather. Time for dinner and more beer I think.... Thanks for the help guys, will have another look in the morning. PS...Snapper - that's a very clean Pinto engine....puts mine to shame.

Hooray... I think the beer inspiration is working. Brake lights fixed Choke cable... Sort of fixed...(cut it a bit short), but it's in while set up the carbs again. Vacuum pipes all in and secured. Snapper my ford elbow definately has a valve inside.... So will now commence with flat bladed screw driver and mallet to try and remove old stubborn one and replace with burton one. I've got it so I may as well use it.

Hopefully you mean remove the first one and add the last one in the pictures on the link: http://www.kilmartin...08_04130005.jpg Sorry I couldn't load any pictures, keep getting an IO error from the site.

That's the one, connected it up, opened valves. Tightened valves on any of the needles jumping around to steady them. Everything was going to plan, until breather fell out and cylinder 1 carb wouldn't adjust to match the main carb ( cylinder 2) So now I have 3 carbs out of the 4 running true. Carb 1 wouldn't adjust.... So scratching head and cursing a lot.

Chris....its simple little things, but they all mount up when all I wanted to do was get the bike carbs firing correctly: Bust the choke cable again (universal bike cable to the rescue) Brake lights have all stopped working (hope its just the fuse) Breather pipe keeps falling out while the car is ticking over (hence the question above, that I might have connected it wrong) On another note: Tried tuning the bike carbs last night and ended up with a severe headache from the Carbon monoxide in the garage, even thou I had all the doors wide open. Car is running, but very rough and the carb analyzer shows cylinder 1 as very low, 2 (main carb), 3 & 4 are all stable at the same setting. Tried to adjust cylinder 1, using the mixture screw as instructed in the cbr600 manual and the needle don't shift. Wondering if cylinder 1 is faulty.