Jump to content

Pintogogo

RHOCaR Member
  • Posts

    277
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

Posts posted by Pintogogo

  1. Hi guys,,

     

    Ive tried several times to get my Pinto timed correct using strobe, vacuum pipe disconnected @1000 rpm each time and when I go around the 12 deg BTDC it loses a bit of top end pulling power & pinks a bit and around the 10 deg BTDC it seems to run better but backfires through exhaust (or sometimes carb) when swiitched off

     

    Any Ideas

     

    Cheers

    Harry

     

  2. The offside and nearside shafts are different lengths.

    There are 2 different thicknesses of drive shaft too, and different

    size inner joints where they enter the diff.

    Nothing's ever easy is it? :) :)

    Thanks Bob, so looks like Ill have to get shaft out to compare?

  3. The outer cv joint of my S7 offside driveshaft boot was loose, on inspection there is a 'loose ring' inside the boot on the shaft, this appears to have been what the boot was fastened to. Can anyone help with the following

     

    What is the easiest method to remove driveshaft (push in type)

     

    Are there different shafts that ford used or is it a common shaft, my offside shaft measured 22" from diff to brake drum backing plate

     

    Where is the best place to obtain a replacement driveshaft

     

    Thanks in advance

    Harry

    post-13153-0-40274800-1464724148_thumb.jpg

    post-13153-0-91643400-1464724159_thumb.jpg

  4. I have just purchased new shockers for my S7 as the old ones both had the rubber bush in the top eye separate from the metal eye, leaving the bush bolted to the mounting and the shocker eye floating half on the bush and against the fiberglass rear arch causing a Knock on both sides.

     

    The shockers currently run from the bracket at the back of the drum brake to the rear top corner of the wheel arch at an angle of approx. 50deg. This is the original set up but I don't want the bushes on the new shockers to separate from the shocker again so 2 questions :-

     

    (i)Would it be better to mount the shocker in a vertical plane straight up above bottom mount

     

    (ii)If mounted in original position, what can be done to prevent 'pivoting forces' ripping the rubber bush from top eye, short of not bolting up tight

     

    Thanks in advance for help

    Harry

  5. Same thing happened with my Nissan primera. turned out starter motor was shagged n engaged all time flattening battery whilst driving and when swithched off would continue to turn engine until battery completely flat, recon starter solved problem, hope this helps

  6. Had similar problem before on my tin top,

     

    Battery keep going flat then running when key removed.. turned out to be starter motor bendix jammed so starter motor was running all time - pulling power from battery then it kept running when key was taken out, turning the engine over as though it was still running.

  7. I have a S7 and a false elbow joint, I was wondering if anyone has fitted one of the RMD gear change linkage plates from flea bay that moves the gear lever position back 130mm on a type 9 box and a short shift lever & if so did it make any difference

  8. As everyone says, Make sure car is legal & says ROBIN HOOD on log book, not sierra etc, loads advertised on e bay with no IVA n just donor plates fitted, you can still test,tax n Insure them as details just come up as donor car but if you have an accident well ........... Honest check thoroughly before you buy.

  9. Hi Guys

    Glad you had a good run out, gutted I missed it but daughters car broke down & I ve had mega prob with it, OBD said NATS fault, turned out its brain had been wiped n was estimayed at £700 - 1000 to fix depending on ECU, chips etc - Now p/x :good:

     

    BEST WISHES FOR A HAPPY, HEALTHY 2016

     

    Harry

     

×
×
  • Create New...