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maca

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Posts posted by maca

  1. If you would like I could send a copy of my form to you via email.

    It would be much quicker for you to see how to fill it in and less trouble for me to type all the answers.

    I have your email address from your member profile.

    Regards Martin 

  2. Looking at the picture I would say it requires a good clean and a brush pack also if the solenoidis sticking then would be better to replace it.

    I think that you would be better to invest in a new unit and have a 12 month warranty than attempting to repair and have it let you down again.

    Regards Martin

    PS. If you join the club you can get a good discount from Europarts,

    • Like 1
  3. Rear Fog Lamp Min 1 Max 2 Mandatory Red At least one must be on centre line or to offside of vehicle (Min separation distance from stop lamp 100) 1000 When grouped with any rear lamp this may be increased to 1200 250 a. Horizontal i. 250 inwards and outwards; if two lamps are fitted it is sufficient if one lamp (not necessarily the same lamp) – is visible throughout the range b. Vertical i. 50 above and below horizontal.

    Ref. to Table 1-section 28 that gives more details of where and position of lights to be fitted.

    Regards Martin

    • Like 1
  4. The starter gear needs to be under load to check if the starter has any power to turn under load.

    If you can clamp in a vise then hold a piece of wood on the gear and apply pressure to the gear.

    If it is at all sluggish then the starter is failing and sometimes cheaper to replace than having repaired.

  5. Well done pleased that I was able to guide you on how to make it and give a little help on using a lathe.

    Always better to ask for advise than try and have problems, as I said before I have worked on most machines in the engineering trade so have much knowledge on how to set items up for machining.

    Regards Martin

    • Like 1
  6. Hope this may help you!

    Eligibility

    The date your vehicle was built or first registered affects whether you need to:

    • get an MOT
    • pay vehicle tax

    Vehicles that do not need an MOT

    You do not need to get an MOT if:

    • the vehicle was built or first registered more than 40 years ago
    • no ‘substantial changes’ have been made to the vehicle in the last 30 years, for example replacing the chassis, body, axles or engine to change the way the vehicle works

    If you’re not sure if there have been any substantial changes you can:

    Vehicles exempt from vehicle tax

    You do not need to pay vehicle tax if your vehicle was built before 1 January 1980.

    If you do not know when your vehicle was built, but it was first registered between 1 and 7 January 1980, you do not have to pay vehicle tax.

    What you have to do

    You must apply for a vehicle tax exemption to stop paying vehicle tax. This is sometimes called putting a vehicle into the ‘historic tax class’.

    You do not have to apply to stop getting an MOT for your vehicle each year. However, you must still keep it in a roadworthy condition.

  7. Chris,

    May I be so bold as to ask? 

    How you are going to be able to drive a car in the U.K. on our roads that can get near a sub 4s! time of 0 to 60.

    With all the traffic and vehicles on our roads you are luck to average 30mph at times!

    Do you have your own 1/4 mile strip to play on, 

    I understand that we all had that boy racer element within us.

    Just now when the government lifts the stay at home lock down, best we just potter about and enjoy life in a open car along the country roads without all the traffic to get in the way at a nice leisurely speed.

    Just my throughts

    Martin

     

  8. Back in the good old days of a contacts breaker fitted in the distributor then you had a live feed wire from the ignition to the coil +ve and a wire from the distributor contactor breaker to the coil -ve.

    The rev counter was then feed from both sides of the coil wiring sometimes to a loop of cable on the back of the rev counter now that is old school days before those new fancy electronics were put into our cars.

    Martin

  9. 3 minutes ago, painter said:

    I have seen some pretty damning comments on Robin Hoods on Kit Cat sites yet they look no different to a Westfield or Caterham. Is it due to the tube frame quality (torsional stiffness etc.) They are certainly less expensive but I would have thought the quality depends on who put it together.  

    In my opinion many builders that started to build Robin Hoods lacked the engineering ability to know how to put one together and you can come across some that show that within the build.

    Not wishing to have a dig at anyone that has built one in the past.

    Don't want the mob coming after me for what I have put down on paper so to say. 

    Martin

    • Like 1
  10. When I had mine rolling road tuned it came in at about 110 BHP with the standard 2 Lt Pinto Inj engine so not had a 0-60 time but can say it is fast, All depends what engine is in the Caterham. I am sure that you will be happy with the results.

    Martin 

  11. 6 minutes ago, painter said:

    Hi Maca,

    thanks for the response, I am 71 but 17 stone (not an inactive beergutted 17 st.) I am now concerned that the car I am looking at was not registered until early 2019 (from 2005). The car looks almost new and appears well constructed, but why would 14 years have elapsed before IVA registration? 

    The date of IVA as Stuart states has no bearing on the elapsed time it took before the car was presented for IVA and then registtation with DVLA.

    I had the car IVA'd in 2017 some 12 years after I purchased it and completed the rebuild.

    Regards Martin

  12. It's more a case of how agile you are not to put a finer point on it.

    If you are young and fit then not a problem.

    I am 75 approx 60Kg and still am able to get in and out my 2B 

    The 2B was manufactured from approx 1998/9 to about 2005.

    I purchased a part built 2B in 2005 and spent the next 12 years striping and rebuilding to a high standard that the origanal builders were never going to do, and gave up and sold the kit back to Robin Hood Engineering

  13. Thanks Barry,

    Good point to bring to our attention with regards to health and safety and the use of machinary.

    I now have my own lathe and milling machine in the garage so would not come under HSE.

    Reading Ryan's post

    I assume he has permission to use the lathe at the school and has been informed of all health and saftey matters.

    Regards Martin

  14. 1 hour ago, David S said:

    I am sure you must watch Ben Crowe at Crimson?  I have been so tempted to go on one of his courses but by the time you factor in the course costs, accommodation for a week or more and materials, it is just too expensive.  I also have too many guitars already! :) 

    No David sorry to say never heard of Ben Crowe!

    I worked in a machine shop for many years and worked on most machines in my time so time served machinist.

    Regards

    Martin

  15. Haynes Manual states:-

    There is no requirement for periodic oil changing, and no drain plug is provided.

    If topping-up is necessary, use clean gear oil of the specified type. Do not overfill.

    Frequent need for topping-up can only be due to leaks, which should be rectified

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