phaeton

On 7/6/2024 at 10:08 PM, ThanasisPolitis said:

Thank you for the hack and tips, worked like a charm!

Just a thought, not had a Pinto for a long time, but if you had to use a drill to break the crud to get the sender in, does it mean the whole block could do with the water jacket having a good clean out? Would have thought there should be some additive you can add to the water for a period before draining & replacing with fresh coolant. Just thinking might be best to do it now rather than after it starts to overheat.

£1500 to £5000 

My totally inexperienced view having only seen them after they have been freshly done, those look original & have not been machined in afterwards, make what you will of that advice I bear no responsibility for its authenticity. 

59 minutes ago, Foz said:

Glad to hear you're sorted

Yep me too

21 hours ago, nelmo said:

and better is to find someone with one of those home laser alignment kits (or buy your own - about £70 I think).

You know of a laser alignment system for £70 do you have a link?

As above doubt very much it'a anything to do with the hub, unless it's been in an accident & the arm on the hub has bent, but it would be unusual as normally the arm from the rack would bend first. No idea which track rods it uses but sometimes you can get different track rod ends with longer arms, I know when we used to put the Mini engines at the back we used to buy another version of the track road end where the arm was longer which made it easier to lock the steering off. So potentially if somebody in the past has put longer arms on then there might not be enough thread left to pull the wheel in to get the correcct toe. This is all complete conjecture obviously 

Yep, I think you've done all the test, the only other if you haven't put it all back together would be to turn on your lights, fans etc. with it running just to see if it needs a bigger draw to kick it in, I have an old tractor which doesn't have a bulb it has a resister that needs to see s bit bigger draw before it starts, . The 5W is definitely 5W?

Yes, you're trying to replicate the bottom left image in the PDF you posted, but without the ignition switch, unfortunately I can't get my image under 300kb so can't post it I have no idea how to shrink it.

19 minutes ago, James Agg said:

Ah ok, so, when you say eliminate all wiring, you’re suggesting a direct wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the ignition terminal on the alternator so that it isn’t switched at all? I guess that’s ok as a temporary measure as it’s just for testing - I imagine the purpose of the 12v feed to the regulator being switched is so that the regulator doesn’t drain the battery when the car isn’t in use right?

You could put a switch in there if you wish, but this is just a test to find out if the alternator is charging, personally I'd also have a voltmeter or multimeter on the battery as well. But you must ensure that the bulb works, it needs to be over 5W once you have a known good alternator then you can start to chase down any other fault, if there is one. But until you have a known constant you don't have a base line to start from

9 hours ago, alanrichey said:

I'm by no means an expert, but you have already commented that the warning light doesn't appear to be working correctly.   I wonder if the alternator is not getting exited enough to sctually kick in (I know it sounds daft but that is the technical term).   What shold happen is that when you switch on the ignition the alternator light should come on, along with the oil pressure light.  This is because one side of the light is fed ignition-switched 12V and the other end is connected to the alternator, which at this stage is at 0V.   Once you start the engine the current flowing through the 'lit' warning light should 'excite' the alternator and it starts to produce power.  Once that reaches 12V then the warning light has 12V on both sides so it goes out.    I know that some alternators can also self-excite on occasions and maybe that is what happened to you on the first trip when it seemed to be working.    So I should check the wiring of the warning light and make sure it is operating correctly.

To prove this you need to eliminate all the vehicle wiring, once you have a good known alternator or not you can move forward, you need to systematically work through one step at a time.

1) Temporarily run 2 new wires from the battery one with a 5W bulb & the other without, does the light come on at this point Yes got to 2/No get alternator tested ***test bulb before you do this to ensure it's working

2) Start engine, does light go off Yes alternator is good, fault is in car wiring/No get alternator tested

Has somebody welded the diff up for drifting? My son has a BMW drift car & depending on which tyre has the best grip the other wheel skips if on tight lock

If you had a charging issue before, you've changed the alternator & you still have a charging issue, I wouldn't assume the new alternator is faulty, I made a suggestion above which effectively take all the existing car wiring out, that would be my first step, if it works correctly then you know you fault is the cars wiring.

Have the South Yorks meets stopped, can't see anything about them for the last 18 months, used to be at Monk’s Bridge Farm Dinnington is there any interest in the area?

Sorry don't have access to put it in events

• Friday, June 28, 2024
• 5:00 PM  9:00 PM
• Great British Sports Cars 

11 hours ago, Pintogogo said:

Hi Alan

just a quickie to see if you were aware that England are playing in the euro 2024 on Tuesday night, it might affect the turn out, would it not be better on Wednesday 26th this month... just a thought

Regards

harry

 

That to me would be a bonus, 180 minutes of drivel talking about shoulda/woulda/coulda leading up to 90 minutes of disappointment followed by another 180 minutes of drivel talking about shoulda/woulda/coulda

1 hour ago, James Agg said:

Re the battery warning light, it’s from the original Ford Sierra clocks and it illuminates when the ignition is in position 1, then it goes out in position 2 as the other warning lights come on, and then it never makes an appearance when the car is started… It’s leading me to believe that the diagram that was on the listing for the alternator (same one that Foz posted) has the labellings of the spade connectors the wrong way round? 

You could test the circuit by ignoring the ignition if you are unsure of the voltage etc. Simply make up 2 wires to go directly from the battery 1 with a bulb the other without & connect them directly to the alternator, then put the multimeter across the battery, start the car & watch the voltage, once you've done that you will know if that is working or not, then you can fault the ignition barrel (if required)

What size bulb do you have in the link & does it light when you switch on the ignition?

8 hours ago, Darren Knowles said:

Hi guys 

sorted i changed a blown 10 a fuse still no go but put another one in couple of hours later and they are working again! Must of been a duff fuse i dragged from bottom of toolbox! 
thanks for the advice

Been there, done that.

Sold as seen, unless you specifically offered any warranty?

Doesn't help you anyway as there are multiple issues, depending on how old the Pinto is it may not have hardened valve seats so may need additives, but it's not only the engine, it's the hoses that carry the fuel, many hoses before 2000ish will slowly disintegrate from the inside taking the  crap into your engine. Any build before 2000 really ought to have any rubber hoses replaced

On 6/3/2024 at 8:59 PM, Foz said:

Kit car activity n general appears to be down since Covid.  I think some of it could well be down to a lot of folks not having the spare cash at the moment.

Add to that the young who have the disposable income are either not interested in kit cars or haven't a clue how to keep one on the road if they were.

It's a diminishing market unfortunately & your location is not going to help you, unless you take a bath on the price

Not sure if this is allowed, I don't think it was years ago as the club wanted all adverts in the same place, so please somebody edit the link out if not allowed, https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/353810727308470 is a 1991 unregistered car that has engine, box etc. you should be able to compare what you are getting with one & not with the other & decide if they are worth the £800, if they are not then your £700 is a good price, if they are worth more than £800 then it's not so good.

Just to be clear I have no connection with either seller, I just happen to stumble across the one on FB & thought it worth offering another option, it also could depend where the OP lives.

That sounds like the thicker of the wire fed things that need a permanent live, like your lights, hazards etc, which really ought to be a fused feed. You could disconnect that wire, (after disconnecting the battery), then re-connect the battery & see what doesn't work.

I too thought you meant you had mounted it at 90 degrees to the engine along the chassis rail as it were, not that you had simply turned the rad 90 degrees on it's mounting, not sure what advantage this gives. However to the actual question, if you are not using a shroud & simply have a fan against the radiator I don't think it makes a difference. I believe the 'best method' if there is such a thing is to have the fan mounted on the inside, between the rad & the engine, spaced slightly away from the radiator in a fully enclosed shroud. This then pulls the maximum amount of air through the whole of the radiator.

The IVA is nothing to be worried about, if anything it's an experience to be enjoyed, it's bigged up to be horrible & daunting, but TBH it's not, I've done 4 SVA's & 3 IVA's (I think) & each one was different but enjoyable, even the fails. At least with the fail you get a finite list of things that need rectifying, you can talk to the inspector & ask him exactly what he wants to see to get a pass, which sometimes is not how you have read the rules.

No idea on the price, scan Fleecebay & Feacesbook to see what people are asking for them now, but your £700 is going to be about £3500 by the time you've bought a donor, IVA & all the other bits & bobs. 

Also depends if you want the experience.