phaeton

Didn't think them adding in big red letters would make any difference

Please could you refrain from posting the update on any social media for the next 24 hours whilst we make our own announcements for visitors, so that they hear it from us first. Thank you for your understanding on this.

Personally remove it & fit electric with thermostat.

Never heard an MOT station refusing to test a kit, they are just a normal Class 4 tests, the only time I have been an issue was when the tester was too large to fit in the kit  he had the apprentice sit in the car.

2 minutes ago, richyb66 said:

Can we keep this thread relevant to potential insurance providers rather than complaining about any particular company. 

I know there will always be good and bad experiences with most companies but it doesn't help us find support for the club if only the bad experiences seems to come to the fore. 

It wasn't a complaint, it was a suggestion based on fact, you could have replaced Flux with Heritage or any other insurance company & the result would have been the same, insurance companies are not there for our benefit they are there to make money just like any business.

Now if you do want my personal feelings on auto insurance companies they would be deleted.

Go back to Flux they will beat it, just annoying they try to screw you the first time, but it's always been that way.

From section 09D of the manual

20. The hydraulic system failure warning lamp must be secure, operational, visible during daylight and darkness from the driving position, identifiable (i.e. labelled in a recognised form – see figure 1 for an example) and fitted with a “test facility” that enables its operation to be checked from the driving position without opening the reservoir.

Which means it does not have to be on the handbrake although this is a convenient way of doing it, it can be on a separate switch on the dashboard if you prefer. However it does need to be the recognised symbol in Red as per figure 1. 

The wiring should be a switched live to the bulb, then from the bulb a wire going in parallel to both the test switch & the MC, then from both to earth, which will then mean if the test switch is thrown the bulb will light, or if the fluid level drops the bulb will light.

I would figure on paying the £450 & then unfortunately the additional £90 for the retest, the number of cars that get through first time is very low, especially with a first time presenter. On top of that you also have to pay £55 registration fee along with 6 months VED to get your V5C they only accept cheques or Postal Orders

1 hour ago, MarkBzero said:

I wish my son worked at Screwfix, I always use the local branch in Telford. Great service every time.

I can ask him if he wants to move, but he's 31, still at home rent free, has 2 cars, a motorbike & a flatbed truck that you'll have to accommodate, given the choice of 20% off Screwfix or a quieter life I'm know which I would take as a prefered option  

Son bought a DeWalt he works for Screwfix & gets 20% off even sale items, seem very good, now have several tools & several batteries

Flipside I bought a Stormforce for a MK1 MR2 it stripped the paint off the edge of the wings over winter, although they assured us it was the correct one, it was very baggy.

6 minutes ago, blue said:

You can’t Email them due to incompetence.   You can’t call them due to incompetence you can’t on line chat due to incompetence......... there a f00king joke.  

I hope you don't mind but I have fixed that for you

Including all those that aren't electric, take the BMW I8, it can drive about 20 miles on it's battery before it's flat, why is that exempt, it should have it's ICE disabled to qualify, but comes back to @Mrbarry's point, if it was on miles travelled at your consumption rate it would be far fairer, including the thousands & thousands that don't pay any at all, because there is nobody to catch them. 

Not only that I sold my BMW bike on Friday night & rode it over to the new owners house, he was insuring & VED'ing it from Saturday, they will refund me from the 1st of July, but charge him from the 1st June, so they double bubble this month.

13 hours ago, Mrbarry said:

It’s time they abolished it. Add two pence per L on fuel and it’s fair. More miles, more fuel, more tax paid. No one can dodge it. No admin costs. No need to check if you have it. No need to SORN. No need to have different bands for gas guzzlers they will use more fuel thus pay more tax. I just don’t see the problem. 

I posed the same question to our MP a couple of years ago, other than I didn't suggest 2p, I suggested that they knew how much revenue was received, they also knew how many litres had been sold so the additional would be an easy calculation. He forwarded it as a Parliamentary question to the Dept of Transport or whatever they are now called. They wrote back to me via him basically stating it would have an adverse effect on rural dwellers & as such they would not be doing it. But I am in full agreement with you, the cost saving would be huge, on the administration alone.

Not done an IVA but did 5 SVA's never requested a Vin from DVLA I just made mine up, as far as I know they just have to be 17 digits long.

Later today if that's okay Alan..

Bill,

I'd like this, how much do you want for postage, name a charity & I will make a donation if you won't take anything for it.

Or if you won't post I have a friend in Towcester who I can probably get to collect & he will post

Alan..

Any images of the heater?

On 5/23/2020 at 10:58 AM, Andi said:

I taxed mine once using the installment method. It was just to move it around for a month then i cancelled and got a snotty letter saying if I did this again I would not be able to tax it this way again. I obviously upset their admin charges.

On 5/23/2020 at 1:50 PM, Mrbarry said:

I constantly tax mine for one month at a time then sorn for a month or two. I’ve never had any issues. I do the same with my motorbikes. 

I've VED'd mine several times for a month, then cancel, then started again, I've never had any problems with DSA often leaving until late in the evening of the last day of the month.

13 hours ago, maca said:

How is jobsworth MR VOSA bod able to tell what cc it is?  He would be looking if the engine number matchers.

Don't think any buyer is going to quibble if it has a few more cc's. 

Some do actually know what an engine looks like, unlike the pencil pushers

Would you buy an incorrectly registered vehicle? Especially an incorrectly registered kit car?

But we all view these types of things differently, I no doubt would take a risk with something else, but I like all my numbers to match with my cars

Is it worth it if yo get pulled by a jobsworth VOSA bod, also if you ever come to sell it

Name of Garage

Address Line 1

Address LIne 2

Postcode

To Whom It May Concern,

As per your request to Mr XXXX to provide independent verification of the engine fitted in the vehicle with registration ABC1234D. 

VIN No: All18digits

Current Engine number: As fitted now in the car 

From the website http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/content--name-MG-Rover-MGF-MGTF-Vehicle-Information (Ideal if you can point them to a page)

I and Garage name can confirm the engine capacity is XXXXcc.

Regards,

Mechanic Name,

Garage Name. 

That's all I sent along with the completed section of the V5C

Having done 5 SVA's & 5 registered kits, I've never had a Q plate on any of them, I don't understand why it's difficult if the vast majority of parts comes from the donor or the donor type vehicle. The DSA are not engineers & the vast majority have no clue as to what came from what vehicle. 

Edit:- Just to add i would have thought now that you no longer have to present a vehicle for inspection to register it, it should be easier.

Check battery voltage with multimeter with engine off

Start engine

Check voltage with engine running should be over 13.5V if not the alternator is f f f f f broken

As it's an old diesel tractor it doesn't need the alternator apart from starting, so as long as you put it on charge after you've finished without it it won't hurt the engine, the only fly in the ointment is if the alternator is putting out AC voltage & that's what you're pumping into your battery it won't do it any good.

Without trying to teach you to suck eggs, connect your multimeter across the terminal & the main body, then with a pan of hot water slowly lower the sender into the water try to keep one of the leads does not go into the water, as the sensor warms up the resistance on the multimeter should change. Use extra fly leads if necessary