Jonty Wild

Looks great thank you, will study and ponder.

Very helpful, thank you. I am not expecting the 'cap' to be 100% waterproof - although obviously that would be ideal, 95% plus would be good! It is really just to stop the interior getting wet during when parked at events if the weather starts looking dodgy. If I have to drive in the rain at least the seat will be dry starting off! I think strong wind and especially with rain, will be the biggest problem, with the way I am attempting to fix it on the car. Thinking about this project last night, while falling asleep. I have decided to finish tidying up my template (old roller blind material), and try overlapping the rear quarter two cuts semi-sealed with press studs to start with - the joins at the top of each will be the most likely source of some leakage, although I think I have an idea to help this. To this end I am going to produce a 'Beta' version to further test the concept over time before buying more expensive material and I am just about to look for a general car cover to buy that I can then cut up and fit. It may all going horribly wrong yet, but worth a try.

It was a much newer post, but any help appreciated. Thanks. Maybe I saw it it on Facebook, but I cannot find it there either.

Okay, I don't want to fit the roof and doors that I have - well I might fit the doors, if I use it in the winter, but I want to showerproof the cabin area for when it is parked. This is really so that I have more confidence to take it further, and to events, without having to worry too much about the weather and not feeling that I have to rush away just because of a little rain. My current choice is to create a shower cap. A while back I created a template, from cut up bits of cardboard and marked it up on some old window blind material. Today started fitting it to fine tune the fit, although the original template was a bit rough, it is actually going better that I expected and I think that I can fit it mostly using studs that are already on the car, rather than lots of bungee cords that I thought I would have to use. Unfortunately, I had to stop when I ran out of stud fixings, so I have ordered some more. While I wait, I have some questions, for all you experts: Has anyone sourced waterproof material that might be suitable for this work? I will need about 2.8m by 2.5m, needs to be relatively easy to cut and sew - if I make it myself. It doesn't have to be as strong at normal roof/tonneau material, as I will not be driving with it on the car, but I don't want it to stretch too much over time. In case I need help to make it or sew it up - I don't have any sort of sewing machine at the moment. Has anyone had similar bespoke work done done by a company they can recommend? Ideally, I think, I will need it cut to my template, 'hem' all round and sew 2 short seams for the rear quarters. I will need to add a few stud fixings - probably 6 or 8. What is the best way of drilling the stainless without damaging the surrounding area? I have visions of drill bits sliding across the stainless steel as I start drilling! Has anyone fitted a detachable central beam/tube from the rollbar to the windscreen. I don't think this is essential, but it would help keep the shape in rain/wind.

Having failed to find one, I am trying to create a 'shower cap' to put on the car when I am out in it and it looks like rain (i.e. not for driving under). I am only in the template stage at the moment. Someone posted a photo of a roof (not a full roof) they created, and when I asked whether the material was waterproof they kindly replied with a link to the supplier. For the life of me I cannot find it again. Can anyone point me to it?

Thank you. I hope to take it for a decent run tomorrow or next week, with a water container, just in case. On balance I would like to fit a basic expansion tank, as it would certainly do no harm, but space it very tight. So if anyone has photos of where they installed theirs in a 2.0l 2B , and what type/make they installed I would be very interested.

Thanks for this, I thought that I already knew how they worked, and for the l most part I did, but I definitely learnt from the second video. Despite maintaining my own cars for years I didn't know about the low pressure valve in the rad cap - although logically I should have realised, coz' I wondered how the water would get back in passed the rad cap seal. Still not sure if I need one or not. There is a reasonably simple answer of course. If I run it and it is not over heating and I lose water then I do. I was hoping/expecting that if most people running 2.0l Pinto engines said they had one or if they were fitted by Ford originally, then I would need one. I had a 2.0l Capri back in the 80s, but I can't remember if it had one let alone whether is was a header or expansion tank. At this point, I have decided to I am being dopey, rolled my brain back into position and looked at my Haynes manual! All the engines pictured have expansion tanks, so if Ford thinks the engine needed one that I guess it does - back to my tape measure and eBay!

I am sure no front plate is definitely illegal. Unless, maybe, you take 2 wheels off and call it a motorbike!

It is one thing matching the spacing, colour yellow/white (age dependant - I don't know whether black and silver could be put on a Q plate car) and reflectivity and another to match vertical (or near as practical). I think that in most cases your will get away with adhesive on the nose cone for instance, BUT if you do something stupid, or the car is not obviously roadworthy or the policeman is having a bad day, it will be something they will decide to 'do' you for.

In counts if it contains water and if the hose goes to the bottom of the bottle so that it can 'suck' back fluid as the pressure drops.

I guess it probably would not do any harm to fit one, but I would guess that unless the radiator cap is the correct pressure rating, it might not work properly. Too weak and too much water would get out and too strong it might not get back it - not sure. So that begs another question, if I fit a tank, do I need to change the cap and if so to what. Anyone any information on what they are running with and without a header tank?

My 2.0L RH2B has no expansion tank - back in the day I ran Triumph Cars which all had them as I recall. It was overheating, which I believe, fingers crossed, that I have now cured. It needs more testing, but I believe was a combination of the gauge reading high anyway, the electric fan thermo switch not functioning properly and some idiot taking out the engine thermostat and fitting the housing back, using a gasket that blocked about a third of the hole. The car was IVA's in 2016 (not by me) and it has never had an expansion tank, mind you the guy I bought it from said it had no overheating problems. So guys, does your car have an expansion tank or do you run it without? Is it needed or just wise to have? Thoughts please and if you think it should have one, any suggestions for size and source.

Ask the seller for the photos that you want to see.

Jon, I think that you need to 'follow' key people like your local area organiser and also sign up for notifications.

Great suggestions, thanks.

Many thanks

Hi All. I am looking to replace some of the rubber trim around my 2B, e.g. bulkhead to bonnet seating, bonnet/metal edge trim, etc. as although appearance is good some of it is now a little loose. Any suggestions, recommendations for good quality, good fit items and sources? And what is used to stick the bulkhead/bonnet trim on?

Enjoy, a little too far for me.

After a gap since buying my RH 2B Plus and am working on it to starting using it. I have been looking into some overheating issues which I may have resolved (just done many things including removed the incorrect gasket covering a third of the hole!) - time will tell! However, I have noticed an issue with the electric fan, which is wired via a thermostatic switch in the coolant system (which is earthed) and a manual switch on the dash - both continue to operate after the ignition is off, the fan had stopped coming on automatically(not the source of the overheating!). I bought a new thermostatic switch, but when I took the original (90 degrees) out and tested both, the new one did not work and the original did, so I cleaned it up and put it back in. The fan now turns on correctly with both switches, but is not turning off when the temperature drops significantly. If I disconnect it at the thermostatic switch and reconnect it immediately, the fan does not restart (only tested this with ignition off), but does start and stop with the dash switch (as expected). I also noticed once, that when I switched the dash switch on and off (ignition off), the fan stopped, but has this hasn't happened again, so far, it may have been coincidence. I am now wondering about the wiring or the thermostatic switch. I thoughts, ideas suggestion? If others think that it is still worth changing the thermostatic switch anyone know a supplier of the small thread diameter, so that I don't need to change the housing? Also, mine is the single connector variety, as the new one I bought (double connector) doesn't work, can I check my logic for the double connector type (which seem easier to get) do both connectors have the same function when the the thermostatic switch is on (hot) - I'll describe that as both +, or is one + and the other -?

Not yet. Got all the bits, got to find time to fit them - next dry day - this year is is a RH write off in terms of use I am afraid. I will make more effort next year!

The main hose end that I was talking about (original post) was the top rad 50mm hose and the bottom one (I think) that was a surprise because I would have expected it to have raised the rad cap thermostat spring and come out of the overflow first. I have fitted a new cap anyway, but obviously yet to be tested. Got to order a water pump and debating which type to order as I have no need of the viscous bit. After reassembly, if it comes out of the overflow I will look at fitting an expansion tank. The previous owner did use the car, so if that was the problem I would have expected it to have been sorted - his brother ran the local BMW garage and they did the work necessary, e.g. servicing and fitting windscreen washers etc. Also, it didn't overheat on quite a long test drive, but it has sat for a while. It may yet prove to be a combination of issues, e.g rad cap and faulty electric fan thermostatic switch. On my old Triumphs I used spend ages trying to solve one problem only to find out it was 2 - it's all beginning to come back to me now!!! Oh the joy

Very sensible suggestions, I will certainty try both before I reassembly. Should have done that routinely. I am a little rusty re car maintenance, since my Triumph car days.

Ford 2.0l Pinto 1990. Only just got around to having a look at this problem, too much else happening! Guess what? No thermostat in there, so I guess the suggests a more longer term problem - the guy a bought it from told me definitely no overheating issues! I pretty sure the rad is fine as it looks like new. I have a new rad cap, but to be fair they both 'feel' the same spring resistance. The electric fan was working fine so I presume not the problem - although I will double check that still is blowing/sucking in the right direction. About to remove the water pump to have a look and probably replace that. I suggestions for the best place to get a new one and any other suggestions for the reason for overheating? Additional: I now have the water pump out, nothing obvious wrong, but I will be ordering a new one. The pump is a viscous one (with no fan attached) Does any one know, are the viscous and none viscous pumps the same engine block fitting (Burton Power pictures look very similar) and is anyone running both normal fixed and electric and if so has it helped or is it pointless if the electric is working?

Where are you seeing that as everywhere I look notifications are set to be emailed?

Thanks, this mirrors my thinking and is probably the easiest fix so definitely what I am hoping