Jump to content

TonySuperSpec

Community user
  • Posts

    248
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by TonySuperSpec

  1. hi

     

    4 wire lambda will only be used once the ECU has started and the engine is running at temp.

     

    there should be an ECU output to switch on lambda heater relay. You need a relay since the current sink on the ECU will not be up to the task.

     

    The lambda signal wiring should be screened. The voltage swing from a Lambda isnormally no more than 0.5 volts Rich to Lean so any interference will make it wrong..

  2. Don't dismiss Piston Heads

     

    I sold my Superspec there sight unseen to a guy in Manchester.

     

    He transferred the funds to bank, then organised the pick up as I had SORN the car after my knee made it impossible to get in / out

     

    Its a great wrench to loose the car but just remember the good times Head Banging on garage wall. I remember you quoting that to me when I bought the kit and you suggested a cushion to make sure I did not hurt myself.

     

    all the best

     

     

    Tony.. :mellow: :mellow:

  3. Yes the space is a problem

     

    I solved this by removing just a piece of the runner to allow the belt braket to swivel.

     

    The passenger side was rge worst and I got seebelt is that how you spell it ! to rework the belt to extend the lap strap .. Didn't cost a lot and ensured the buckle was central for the SVA..

  4. Hi

     

    There are a number of threads on the topic of exports

     

    As far as I am aware 1/1/09 was the crunch day..

     

    From that date no car registered in an one EU country can remain legally in any other for > 6 months..

     

    Of course you can have it in country longer but in the event of an accident you may find you have no legal protection and no insurance!!

     

    I originally intended to export mine to Spain but they have stopped matriculating i.e re re-registering non Spanish conformed cars so no go on getting hoodie into country legally.

     

    Did a quick look and it looks like France has adopted a similar stance.

     

     

    Sorry to be the Bearer of back news..

  5. Hi All,

     

    Quick question surounding the Rover engine code. As stated in the description.

     

    Engine code is:

    20T (engine type?)

    4HH (haven't got a clue)

    96 (poss year of manufacture?)

    6 digit engine number (sequential number?)

     

    Many thanks

    Al

     

     

    Look back on the threads 3 years ago ?

     

    I spent over 6 months trying to get details... They were lost at Longbridge when they went bust no one has any direct info.

     

    My engine had a build label and from that it was possible via Gaydon records to identify it was an export spaye probably for an 820 but with regards to age no idea.

     

    20T = Engine block type = T series rather than later K series

     

    5HH96 = block cast revision no details found on what variants this equals although did find this was a late revision so late build of engine type.

    The 6 digit laser etched is the unique identifier.

     

    It would have been good to get the details so the MEMS ECU variant problems could have been overcome.

    Also get year and my SVA emissions test would have been easier..

  6. As I said before the Vicki Green loom is fine provided you work on it carefully.

     

    The colour coding is non standard but thats no big deal, I thought the premier one also does not conform to tin top standards...

     

    You need to think very carefully before attacking car electrics, its not like 240V mains with only three wires!

     

    Earthing is another sticky subject too many and loops can result too few and bits don't work, there is a fine balance...

     

    The docs I created can be found by doing a search on the forum

  7. Robin, thanks for the heads-up, but I could end up in the same situation, they may be 'old' batteries that may not hold a charge.

     

    With the restriction on space under the bonnet, i'll be looking for a battery with dimensions smaller than or equal to 200 x 170 x 170mm

     

    Cheers

    Al

     

     

    The battery you need is a TAB version (if you used the bolt on cables supplied) is one originally supplied for FORD Contina / Capri etc.

     

    54317 Alphaline 44 360 210 175 175 4F supplied by Battery Supply

  8. Am I right in thinking if I build a Superspec, with a new engine, gearbox and propshaft, utilising the 'all new parts' from the Superspec kit, the car will be registered as a 'New-build? ie, not 'Q' or age related????

     

    Can confirm if of the three major components .. Engine Gearbox Diff you can prove two new plus one fully refurbished to as new condition the build up points on the DVLA form will enable the issue of a new plate proving of course you can receipt all other parts (i.e major components as new)

     

    Tony

  9. Hi all, Can someone advise the right way to wire the rear fog so that it will operate when the car is either on dip or full beam as now required by the IVA. At present I have controlled a relay from the dipped wire from the light switch then to the fog switch. Is it ok to take a feed from the full beam to another relay and then to the same terminal on the fog switch. All help appreciated.

     

    Thanks

     

    Ian H

     

    You can use two diodes as an OR

     

    Join the diodes together at the marked end,

    Feed diped feed to one

    Feed main feed to other

     

    THen use the joined point as the +ve for the fog switching.

     

    B) B)

×
×
  • Create New...