miikae

Oops --Nice one Joel cant push the keys until i stop laughing

Mike

Just found this Info on Zetec cooling systems , it may be of interest to those who are using them .

http://www.emeng.gentlyhosting.co.uk/Cooling/CoolPaper.htm

Mike

The only regs i know of are distance from the ground min 350mm to the bottom of the indicator , max 1500mm to the top , max from the edge of vehicle 400mm , minimum speration 500mm ,

All the above measurement are from here http://westfield-world.com/svalights_front.html

But i would add that the main reason for indicators are to show other road users what you intend to do , the more your intentions can be seen the less there excuse can be for saying didnt see you mate sorry for your broken nose !!

Think self preservation and keep smilling .

Mike

Hi Firmy & Welcome ,

Firstly i would suggest that you do a search as there have been many posts on this overheating subject , from making sure you have no air in the system if you have a heater fitted and pipes higher than rad cap , fit an over flow bottle on the rad overflow so fluid can be caught and it will get sucked back into system when rad cools down etc etc .

Hope this helps

Mike

Rrzo welly blest echo flendly flunt suspenders gud for de viroment flom wery onrable Nippon forrestry komission firsta classa .

Maybe!!

Mike

Just had mine MOT'd again - my regular place has invested in a pair of the new super-duper 'automatic' MOT test ramps ... they actually weigh the car for the purpose of the brake test (as well as shaking the front wheels in an alarming manner!).

 

My car came back at a lardy 832kg! Good job I've lost over 2.5 stone over the winter .... might get some performance improvement by removing some of the human ballast!

Its a good job i am in the process of beefing up my headlamp mounts to try to stop them shaking if the shake test is on the cards ths year .

How long did they shake it for ?

Mike

Last year my friendly MOT man asked me the same question so he would know how to assess the brake efficiency test and he said seeing as how they are raced in the 750 series we will go with that weight and all was ok a pass again after i fixed a dodgy mainbeam connection whilst he wrote out the cert he even lent me his crimping tool .

Mike

On mine, the baffle (perforated tube) ran continuously straight through.

Also, for ally (in my prev post) read Stainless.

Many thanks for that , will go read and then play !

Just had quick check with a withy and mine is the same straight through type .

Mike

The more i look into repacking the more confused i become as to how the Stainless one i have is constructed ie one pipe straight through with wadding around it or two seperate baffles with the open centre cavity , is there any way of telling by the looks tell tail marks etc or is it as i suspect suck it and see , more likely the latter i suppose or borrow a opthalmascope and do a painless internal inspection !!

Mike

Hi Tim , I have been thinking about doing mine by grinding the back Welded end off , repacking and then bolting or pop rivetig it back together as a lot of bike silencers are done this way , plus it may be quicker then cutting a trap door in the side as a new plate would have to be made .

Mike

If fuel prices keep rising like they have been and RFT goes through the roof then my next rebuild project will have to be a pre 1970 Lotus 7 s3 or s4 with a big valve twin cam motor from that era to blend in with my other two RFT free vehicles , so do your worst GB as i am opting out , beans on toast from now on and cooked in the garage my real home

Mike

Hi Al , Thanks for that i can get back to him with that info , i thought that it might have been a 2ltr but its better to get ones facts right first , further to add i am speaking to two other possible suppliers they are peole i have dealt with in the past few months so we shall have to see what transpires in the next few days , will keep you informed .

Mike

Hi all ,

Could someone tell me the "T" series engine cc or what model they are from as that would help identify the filter thread size you require for these kits , as i may well be able to sort something out at a good price i hope if a few require them.

Mike

This link should be kept as its certainly hard to find helpful & understanding suppliers like that who listen & come up with a satisfactory solution to the problem in hand 10 out of 10 for that .

Mike

As far as i know Ford do ball joints in 14mm x 1.5 , 16mm x 1.5 & 18mm x 1.5 fine , mine are the 18mm .

Mike

Hi Al

A local refrigeration parts supplier or installer is a good source for solid drawn copper pipe for fuel lines as they stock all sizes , if a local motor factors can't help you , thats where i got some from a while ago .

Mike

Congrats , well done , lots more smiles to come

First thing with your carbs did you buy them jetted for your engine if so they should run out of the box so you should not have too much trouble .

Set idle mixture for a steady idle speed then Synchronize carbs by adjusting idle speed screws until a balanced airflow is acheived .

Also check there are still in balance at higher revs if not adjust to fine tune them and then you have it flying .

Sounds easy and it is when you have done it a few times as first time it is a bit daunting but well worth the effort .

Mike

Black Birds can be very frightening too as my cat has been dive bombed by them and seen running for cover on many occasions .

Mike

I wonder what was there first, the Showground or the local residents?

 

If the local residents were there first then it's possibly a fair comment, but I doubt in the 35+ years that I've know Stoneleigh Showground to be open there are very few people still living nearby who were there before then.

 

IMHO if you buy a property near a showground, race track, airport, buy motorway junction, river known to flood, etc., then you should do your research and know what you are buying in to. No use buying that house at the end of Heathrow runway 1 then complaining about planes taking off every few minutes!

I totally agree .

Mike

As Bob says no serial no. only type/date possible codes on labels .

Mike

I've just checked my records and there should be two labels (ally/tin) one on the main box and one on the tail output end .

Mike

Tim Dutton has been in the kit car business for as long as i can remember , he started 39 years ago making motor cars 1969 - 2008 plus 13 years of making amphibs 1995 - 2008 , so one can deduce from this that he knows what he is doing and most probably enjoys it to , so it sounds like someone is just trying to make a fast buck at his expence and has managed to get the do gooders on side ,

It will be a sad day indeed if he looses his case and gets sent down , as all kit car makers could be on someones hit list next if a wheel falls off etc etc .

He even has his own pier to tie the Anphibs up to http://www.timdutton.com/

Mike

Many congrats John ,

Keep up the good work in true Poachers style , in under the radar and out with a hand full of goodies and smiles .

Mike

Plus loads of egg on his face too , das war ein up cock ja Nicky ! du spitzbube , bremsen nicht arbeiten du dummkopf , Zahlung bitter !

Mike