Knock-on

Will be a Blacktop but if anyones doing a Silvertop conversion, remember the crank sensor fits inside the bloody housing and doesn't bolt on the outside like the Blacktop. Engine out job twice as I forgot first time and had to replace a faulty one the second. Facepalm, facepalm and a harder facepalm!!

What Bob says. Ensure the Header is above the highest point of the engine coolant. The pressure cap goes on the Header and blank the rad. Wont be any more pressure as it's regulated by the header cap. I've located my header in the scuttle where the old Sierra master cylinder servo was (running floor mounted pedal box with separate cylinders) and it's fine even with the slightly taller zetec.

Oh bugger, that was 6 days ago. Hope he's OK

I'm off for 10 weeks but if anyones interested, I will reserve them or put on Flea Bay on my return

I thought that after I posted it. Better get one sorted.

All my gauges are on a digidash so that's ok. Fuel pump is a low consumption one from RH that goes with the ZX carbs they supplied. Running it straight from a fuse (think 3a). Does the fan need a relay? Was going to do likewise as it's not got a switch but activated by the Thermistat located in the rad pipe. Would it have had one originally

Can anyone suggest what needs a relay and what doesn't. I'm going to be finishing the wiring loom at the end of July (away on work ) and want to ensure I have it all planned out ready for the 'off'. Im going to be buying new relays so need to spec out what ones I need ready Thanks

As I have said, the covers are pretty tatty but if you want to put a cover over it or even slip the existing one off, use it as a template and sew a new one together, then they are perfectly fine.

Here's a link for the seats. http://s88.photobucket.com/user/knock-on/library/Hood?sort=3&page=1 Please look at this link http://www.cobraseats-usa.com/pimg/Suzuka-Pro-Spec.jpg for a generic seat dimension plan and transpose my dimensions are as follows The 405 dimension is actually the base width on mine and is 400. The 520 (ie overall width for max fitting) is 470 The 800 is 880 on mine.

Should be able to tomorrow

I have 2 narrow Bucket Seats for sale. These are the Robin Hood upgrade seats and are perfectly usable but are a bit tatty. Some of the PVC has worn off leading edges and they need a bit of TLC. I will post some pictures ASAP but I'm looking for £50 the pair.

Yep, Ian's right. The Hood has double wishbone adjustable mounts but the Chassis is different from a standard 2B having been modified, lightened and enhanced for competition use. If photo's would help I can take some Monday but not too sure it correlates to a 2B that much.

I'm just about to chop another one up in the next few weeks so appreciate your apprehension Fortunatly, I've got access to a Bandsaw and a couple of hard lads to help but otherwise I would suggest a Jigsaw and plenty of masking tape. As for dimensions, then it's up to you really. You need to decide how you want the bonnet to look but if you look at Ians, it looks about the same as mine. I have mine covering down to the last point the Bulkhead crosses which makes the support.

Ive got some rusty old steel ones you can have. Should clean up and paint OK with a bit of elbow grease.

I was going to use double sided Carpet tape. Nice and neat Spray carpet adhesive around any intricate bits.

That's what I was thinking Nick. If you make the Tunnel and glue the piping in place, you can get it exactly where you want it right on the edge and it can never move. Then just butt the carpet up to the piping and glue. I like simples Next problem is filling holes in stainless sheet so there's no crease in the wrap. Go him

Hi Nige That's a good tip. I'm crap at upholstery so looking to for ideas. I normally go for quite a minimalist interior but want to get a nice bit of piping down the tunnel this time. I suppose if I get a real tight fit first, I could stitch it to the cloth but my idea sounds good and I wondered if anyone else had done it?

Ive done cars before and have a nice bundle of black hard wearing campervan carpet ready to go in so am happy with that. However, Ive never used upholstery piping before. Wollies are lovely but they can do without my hard earned folding stuff Piping is easy as it's just a wire pr pipe at the end of the day wrapprd with a material. In this case, I'm thinking of using CF body wrap to make it. The bit I'm trying to avoid is the stitching of the piping to the cloth bit as it's going around some tricky corners and trying to get it to match up on both sides of the Tunnel a bit tricky, especially when I will have to do the stitching by hand as I have no machine. That's why I'm wondering if you can just glue the piping to the tunnel and but the upholstery cloth up to it. Will it last like this does anyone think? Cant see any reason it shouldnt?

Can't find much on the forum about finishing off the Upholstery. I'm thinking about making a Carbon Fibre piping by wrapping it around a wire. Does this need to be stitched to the carpet or can I fix it onto the car with adhesive first and then glue the carpet onto it afterwards. Has anyone done this? The bit I'm trying to do is the top of the Tunnel and I don't fancy getting it as neat as I want by stitching.

I know what your saying but like to do everything myself if possible. Will have a go

Has anyone wrapped a nose cone?

Cheers David.

As an aside. Has anyone got the link for metal column stalks while we're on indicator columns. Save me fabricating them if they're cheap and any good.

Don't worry, plenty of people believe in some non-provable omnipresence and a fictional book of contradictions so you're in good company but sorry no, there's no fish oil in the good old WD. However, I have used it as a deodorant once!

I think mine are a bit too far gone so am looking for a pair of the narrow pvc Robin Hood upgraded seats. I havent got a very good picture of one but this is the top of it. http://s88.photobucket.com/user/knock-on/media/Robin%20Hood/CIMG0840.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3