Longboarder

Type 9 is pretty much on the limit with 200 horses. Might be time to look for a stronger box.

Never run with a lambda. I trust my rolling road. Don't want a lambda making changes to the settings I have paid for.

You are right in thinking the rack should be centralised and mounted with its axis parallel in all planes with a line drawn through the centre of each front 'axle'. One assumption is that the wishbones are exactly equal effective length which is not always true with Robin Hoods. The effective length of the steering rack, inner balljoint to inner balljoint, will be slightly wrong and this has to be lived with unless you want to make up a custom rack. Height of the rack relative to the theoretical front axle is a tuneable variable and can be used to reduce bump steer.

Set it up initially all lined up parallel. If this involves grinding off weld blobs or ovalising mounting holes then so be it. Once the car is on its wheels, loaded and ride height set then you can look at real world bump steer and adjust rack height to minimise it.

Did you pick her up 'north of the border' or take her with you halfway back to her namesake mountain?

Breathtakingly gorgeous.

You can only get corner induced fuel starvation if the fuel sloshes away from the HP pump feed. As the HP draws from the swirlpot this means the swirlpot is likely less than half full (and it should be full). Due either to poor LP filling or slower filling than 'use'.

Poor filling is a shot pump, blocked filter (especially if using cube type facet bullet filter) blocked feed pipe or wrong plumbing.

Too fast emptying is usually plumbing fault (especially rail return to the tank rather than swirlpot) although it could be a huge missmatch between pumps.

Also check float heights in the carbs. Possibly slightly gummy carb jet(s) which has now washed itself clean in the hot underbonnet temperatures of the journey.

Fuel injection or carbs?

There might be a more local Hoodie who can visit to help. Get the new bits and appeal for help on here.

I would block it off. Use your tiniest drill like 1mm to drill a hole through the petrol cap.

When I fitted a floor mounted pedalbox and lost the sierra one I got the rattle. Adjusting it out on the cable never seemed to keep it quiet for long. I made a sliding section incorporating a spring to retension the cable. It also helped that I switched cables to an escort one that had an adjustable length section in it

Rev counter sounds OK. That missfire sounds like 3000ish rpm. I believe you have found the problem. Cam timing shown seems way out by about 30 crank degrees advanced!!! I'm surprised it runs at all and has not mangled all the valves if that is a true picture. It looks like the cam belt has jumped two or even three teeth but its also possible that the crank or cam sprockets have slipped on their respective shafts. The cam belt tensioner and the belt must also be in the suspects mix. I would also say you risk the health of the engine if you drive it hard or even if you drive it!

Personally I would say get on ebay and get a new 'Gates' brand cambelt and tensioner as a first step. Like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-PINTO-2-0-OHC-Cam-Belt-Tensioner-Genuine-GATES-INA/162992978179?hash=item25f3237903:g:4DoAAOSwXshWq660 Next have a good look in Haynes and enlist the help of someone who knows this stuff. Probably need the radiator out, hoses off the front of the engine and alternator belt off to help access then strip off both cam sprocket and crank pulley and the toothed sprocket behind it that drives the belt. Reason I would remove the pulleys is they are keyed onto their shafts and should not be able to slip. Indeed it's extremely unlikely that they have slipped but the cam timing is so far out I can hardly believe the engined hasn't lunched on its valves if it's genuinely that far wrong so I would want to confirm the woodruff keys are still properly in place holding the pulleys/sprockets in their correct positions.

Then it's a case of putting it all back together, lining up the cam, crank and dizzy at TDC and putting the belt back on and tensioning it. I would say this is a delicate operation. Not difficult but an experienced helper would be almost essential.

Altogether great news but you have a bit of work to do and a new belt should only be £35.

The vulcan rocker is an old school upgrade to the engine looks. They do polish up nicely. I would be having it off to polish at some stage, perhaps after I checked the cam timing. The next avenue after the above tests I would do would be to check the cam to follower clearances with feeler gauge and make sure that there is no serious cam lobe wear, the gaps are about right and none of the valves is stuck open.(Rocker cover off for this so a good time to polish it!)

I wouldn't for this test. The idea is to give the coil a clean supply of power. There may be a problem, intermittent short or break in the present supply from the ignition switch, a hidden ballast resistor or some other problem which is messing with the ignition currently and if you leave it connected it may still be a problem.

The whole procedure is just a way of checking the supply. If the car is fixed then you know there was a fault in the supply. If the car still won't rev above 2800 then you know ignition supply is not the fault and the search continues.

By the way you do have fresh petrol in the tank? Modern petrol goes off.

That looks like a normally flowing mechanical pump. I think that removes the fuel pump from possible suspects.

Check cam timing, check ignition timing, and wire up a direct positive feed for the coil and distributor for a test run. Remove the feed from the car loom to distributor and insulate it. Don't want it dangling and shorting out by accident.

On pinto rocker covers I always do the two front bolts, the ones that go into the sides of the front cam bearing carrier just finger tight first. Then do the rest of the bolts to correct tightness. Then go back to those two front bolts and tighten them last.

 

I've just read too many people having problems during or after a RR session.

A rolling road session stresses a car but only within parameters it should be built to cope with. Certainly overheating has to be watched out for and is likely to occur and need to be managed. However if a car can't safely manage a RR session it probably can't reliably manage being on the road at all.

Mark, tough on the 'breakdown' and disappointment but the RR session is probably innocent and it's the weight of the beer + tent.

That's excellent kit and should work very well. Money well spent and I would say a very good price too! You won't regret that as a good upgrade to the car when it is running OK. Also sensible to have no vacuum connection to fiddle with. You are sure there are no other electronic modules still connected that were associated with the original ignition system. Next suggestion when you have time for a test run is to temporarily rig a direct supply from the battery positive terminal to the coil and the new distributor. This is to rule out some wiring oddity in the cars wiring. You won't be able to switch off the engine with the ignition key so do it immediately you are about to set off on a test and disconnect it immediately you get home again.

Before you do your test run set the distributor timing to10deg before TDC as a good starting point using the strobe at tickover. Also do the pump test. Then your can wire up the temporary ignition supply and go do your drive test.

Below pics of the crank timing marks. Two types of pulley you might have. I would put a blob of white paint/tippex on the marks you want to use and the blade as shown to make life easier. The pulley is as you would see it from standing in front of the car facing the windscreen.

That sounds like an electrical missfire to me. Can you give details of ignition components. You haven't got any original ford bits left in the ignition system? I understood you were going to replace the distributor and you have also replaced the coil. Precisely what bits did you buy? Make and model please. Is there anything else in the ignition system?

If you do the pump test into a bottle you will soon know if the pump is flowing. (I made a new pushrod for the pump when I ran a pinto engine out of the stem of an old valve!)

So all the sparking bits replaced and a new carb fitted. You haven't yet identified the problem! Get a video up on you tube of it running and try to reproduce the hesitation. Need good sound track.

Bits you haven't proven. Fuel supply to the carb. Two components to this and for carbs flow is more important than pressure. Flow test first. If it passes then you don't need to pressure test! You don't say what fuel pump you are using, electric or mechanical. If mechanical pull the pipe that runs from the pump to the carb off the carb and put the end of it into a milk bottle. Now crank the engine over for 20 seconds or so. You should see fairly powerful spurts of petrol going into the bottle and a good half cupful or more in 20 seconds. If electric pump then do the same with the delivery pipe into a bottle but you just need to switch on the ignition and watch the bottle fill up.

Cam timing. Much less likely problem but worth checking. Need to take the belt cover off the front of the engine so you can see the cam pulley. Then just turn the engine using a spanner on the crank pulley nut (or even rock the car in 3rd gear to turn the engine) till the pointer in the cam sprocket backplate is at 6 o'clock exactly and lined up with it's dimple. Now look down at the crank pulley and the marks should show top dead centre lined up. The pics explain better. If the cam timing lines up to within 3 or 4 degrees then this is good enough for now and not your problem.

If the wipers are not working at all then it's not the park switch mechanism. The 2 speed power feeds and the earth are straight through the park switching terminals, simply using them as a wire connector. It's only if it used to park but now stops anywhere when you switch the wipers off that the park switch is suspect.

Difficult to clean all the acid off. Clean first and then neutralise the acid with sodium bicarbonate solution (baking soda!). It will fizz on contact with acid.

There are three wires (BlueRedYellow) from the motor into the back of the cam operated park switch which is clipped to the motor casing. Five wires into the park switch from the car loom, four from the wiper control switch and one from either ignition live or battery.

Pic below of some of the innards. Outer of cable has a flange which holds it in the motor case. Inner has an eye which is held by a pin on the piston driven by the big wheel. Pic below. Side plate has to come off the case for disassembly.

The motors are reliable. The park switch on the motor is usually the problem if the motor was parking and then fails to park. If it's never parked it's wired wrong. If the motor stops working it's usually the brushes worn. These can be bought separately. There could also be problems with the column or dash switch but Hey you're already depressed enough.

83 stalks are designed to connect from terminal 53C on the column switch to one terminal on the washer motor and provide it with a switched earth. That assumes that the washer motor also has an ignition live supply connected to its other terminal. I don't know the premier loom wiring but remove it from the washer and from terminal 56C if it is connected there. Then give the washer an ignition live and run the other terminal to 53c on the column switch.

Your 83BG stalks should not have a W terminal. If they do then they are 87BG stalks or later!

Favourite would probably be cortina like below. Granted no panhard rod shown but there wasn't one on the cortina. Common aftermarket upgrade on live axles.

Sierra diffs are pretty tough, as is the whole backend running gear and it all works pretty well. The drums are also fine for use and much less trouble than changing to sierra discs or MX5 items. Sierra viscous LSDs are available and work well. They may be a little tired but it's a much lighter car than the sierra so detuned by wear to match its new installation. Add in decambering wedges and the rear will work well for very little work or expense. (After market LSDs are also available.)

All sierra diffs have their ratio on the crownwheel in white paint so easily read if you take off the cover. Mines a 3.62 LSD.