richyb66

Hi all,

 

Thanks to richy's link I've taken the plunge and purchased the Jaguar Parking Brake unit from ebay. Looking at it, it looks pretty similar to the one in Jamie(turbo)'s pictures of the mod to his car.

 

I've emailed Jamie for any info he might be willing to share on wiring the unit up, failing that I'll have to have a go at it myself, hopefully it shouldn't be too difficult.

 

Regards,

Phill.

I've got contacts at the Jag working in development, I'll see if i can get hold of the wiring diagram for the electric handbrake.

Mmmmm not quite sure what particular axe is being grinded here... but I suspect Enforcer will have something to add?

My axe is probably already sharp enough and I'm certainly not having a dig at the police who have a difficult enough job without worrying about number plates.

Just pointing out that I seem to see an awful lot of cars going round with blatantly illegal plates on them and people seem to be getting away with it. I know that the penalties are severe and I believe the DVLA technically have the power to seize plates from serious offenders but with such a large proportion of motoring offences being detected by ANPR - these people have little or no chance of being detected and they all seem to know it.

What Year/Reg is allowed/Can have Black Registration Plates with White or Silver letters/numerics?

I'm looking at a car that is LLL NNN W (L=Letter, N=Number)

And has Black/Silver Plates. Are these legal?

Many Thanks

Col (Taunton)

Just use any font you want, make sure the plate background has lots of little Tazmanian Devils (or similar) on it. Get your favourite football club's emblem added in a panel on the left hand side then screw it on with lots of screws with big black heads in random locations to make it a bit more difficult to read. Finally get what you're trying to get the plate to read, printed in little letters along the bottom of the plate because let's face it, most of these reg numbers are pretty cr@p and you need something at the bottom to help you de-cypher them.

Of course it won't be legal, but you'll be far less likely to get pulled over than if you leave plain black and silver plates on.

HTH - though probably not.

Oh, and new Jags use electric parking brakes too-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/JAGUAR-S-TYPE-NEW-XJ...1QQcmdZViewItem

but I'm not sure how simple the wiring would be as it's almost certain to be wired into the engine ECU.

I was looking at using a Renault electric mechanism and had spotted a few on Ebay for £50 or so but eventually decided to use an umbrella type instead on the basis that electric ones as still pretty scarce and if a second hand one goes pear shaped it could cost an arm and a leg to replace.

After looking for suitable levers I finally got a Mark 1 Cortina handle for 30 quid, again off Ebay, but the prices seem to vary wildly with some going for over 60 quid. I mounted the handle to the left of the steering wheel rather than the right so it's less likely to get kicked getting in and out and because it's more usual to go for the handbrake with your left hand.

One thing to bear in mind with this setup is the handle on its own has no mechanical advantage, it just pulls on the end of the cable, so you need to incorporate something to give around a 7:1 advantage.

I've now got it all fitted and despite the fact that it uses 3 seperate cables, it works a treat and everything is routed inside the tunnel so there's nothing dangling down underneath the car and the adjusters are (fairly) easy to get to. The only slight issue might be that the Cortina handle has a die-cast end with a few sharp edges so this might need a bit of fettling for SVA.

Despite a picture being worth a 1000 words, I haven't posted any yes as I'm posting this when I really should be doing some work, but if there's suitable interest on this thread I'll take a few and try and do a bit of a write-up for anyone who's thinking of doing something similar.

it depends if GBS where let down with the tooling (bending) machine as well?

Sorry but I don't agree, GBS shouldn't be putting stuff up for sale on Ebay if they're not in a position to fulfill the order - they're obviously happy enough to take peoples money, if the items aren't in stock or available then they shouldn't post the item. If they were available when they placed the ad and now aren't for some reason (like the factory burnt down or something similar), then they should update the listing or pull the item.

If they're only planning on running of a few manifolds when they've got enough people interested then there's probably a better way of canvassing interest.

Hi all, I'm going to have a bit of a grumble now.

 

I bought a new 4-1 stainless exhaust for the 2B from kitpartsdirect via their ebay shop, on the 06March. I received an email shortly after saying that delivery would be 7-10days, but hopefully well withing 7..

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=260216556002

 

I've just been told by Richard Hall at KitPartsDirect/GBS that they have not even started making them..? as they are waiting for tooling (for a new bending machine I suspect)

 

This is hugely frustrating.. I can see next week's update as being along the lines of 'we're waiting for the stainless steel tubes to arrive..'

 

Anyone else had the same..? this is all starting to sound like GTS-Tuning...!

 

 

 

I do hate it when sellers are not explicit, I fell slightly mis-lead.

 

 

Tak

Tak,

you've clearly been mis-led. They've advertised an item for sale that doesn't actually exist and it doesn't look like they're in any position to give you a definite delivery date. I know it won't help you much if you need the manifold but I think that you're more than within your rights to ask for a confirmed delivery date in writing and if this isn't acceptable, they should give you a refund.

Personally I'd be speaking to them asap and then maybe giving some negative feedback - sadly there seem to be too many people (and companies) who are happy to use Ebay as a marketing tool but then refuse to play by the rules. Maybe a bit of honest feedback might give then the kick up the ar5e they obviously so badly need.

Just coming to re-fit the injectors onto the rail of my EFi Pinto, but Haynes says

I need some silicone grease (to a Ford spec) for the O-rings. I can get

silicone spray from my motor factors, but just wondering if the Ford stuff will be

any different? Wouldn't want to use the wrong stuff, then get fuel spraying all

over my engine bay! What has anyone else used for this job?

 

Cheers,

Pete

Vaseline

Keith,

no problem, you can tell us all about it at the next meeting.

Keith,

I got the build videos that came with my 2B - think I've only got 3 of the 4 videos (in magnificent VHS format) so I don't know if these cover what you're after but you're more than happy to have a look through them if you think they'd be any help. I've had a quick look at them myself - admittedly more for amusement than anything else as I seem to be spending most of my time re-doing someone elses previous attempts at everything. I got a spare pair of hands too if you think you need help but sadly they're not available weekends, only weeknights.

Rich

They're obviously a copy of Cragar SS Mag wheel but as they're 4 stud they're unlikely to of US manufacture. Nothing obvious springs to my mind but I could probably dig out a Custom Car or Hot Car mag from the 70's and find a John Brown Wheels advert that'll almost certainly have a picture of them.

There's a fitment chart here http://www.retro-rides.com/wheels.asp that'll show what they'll probably fit. If you don't sell them on Ebay, stick a free ad on Ray's excellent www.rodandclassicmart.co.uk and someone who goes on there will almost certainly know what they are.

Yes, that's what i was expecting to see but the bloke at Ford couldn't find it. Maybe he was just a muppet on the microfiche and I need to try a different dealer.

I've bought a pair of (supposedly) Sierra rear flexi hoses. The metal ends that fit into the trailing arm and would also mount to the Sierra body aren't threaded - they're round with a flat on them so they fit into a Dee shaped hole and my trailing arms appear to have the corresponding shaped hole in them.

The problem I've got is I can't find the metal clip that retains them - I'm assuming that it'll be some sort of horseshoe shaped jobbie, a bit like the one that retains the fixed end of the rear handbrake cable but I've got a load of them and they don't fit because they're a bit too small. A trip down to the Ford dealer didn't show anything on the slides - they just look like the usual hoses that are retained with a thin nut.

I'm wondering if I've got the wrong hoses, although they appear to fit the trailing arms and having bought two of them, I'd rather not have to buy something different. I did make my own retaining clip by cutting out some stainless steel sheet which will do the job but as it took a bit of time and I need 4 of them, I'd maybe be better seeing what else might be available.

Anyone got any ideas?

yes but looking on modern inlet manifolds they all share the same chamber the weber on pinto just dollops it at the top and the cylinders take what they want.

That's correct but if you look inside most manifolds you can trace a path around the walls of the manifold to the inlet port without encountering any sharp corners or dead ends. The square section plenum would need to have it's ends capped off and the path to the inlet ports would encounter numerous sharp edges and changes of direction all of which would create turbulence in the mixture and disturb the airflow. Granted the engine will basically suck in the mixture from anywhere in the manifold but for maximum power, the object of the exercise has to be getting the air to flow as smoothly as possible.

In theory it can't not work but I'd wonder how well the induction mixture will flow, given that the plenum between the carbs and the head will have numerous dead air pockets which will cause a lot of turbulence in the mixture and could cause fuel droplets to condense out onto the walls of the manifold and affect the fuel / air mixture.

My personal view would be while it would probably work to a certain extent, you wouldn't be using the bike carbs to their fullest potential.

Yes - http://community.rhocar.org/index.php?show...c=18398&hl=

I've got an account with BOC for a half size Argoshield bottle that I use on my big MIG welder which I hardly ever use now so I only get a bottle once every couple of years, but the one thing I will say about BOC is I've hardly ever know a company increase their prices as often as they do.

I can't remember how much I pay for the annual rental but I think it costs something like £50 to get the bottle refilled. Now that my welding is mostly thin stull and stainless steel rather than big mild steel fabrications, I use a small hobby type welder with gasless wire for mild steel and a small disposable bottle for welding stainless which I think are about a tenner a time from Halfrauds or Machine Mart. A good tip with the disposable bottles is to always loosen off the regulator when you finish welding as they sometimes don't seal that well and the gas tends to escape over time.

Hi Everyone,

 

Just wondering if anyone has any Black Plastic wire conduit sleeving, the stuff with the split in, left over.

 

I am in the process of having the wiring loom installed, so I will need some when I am ready to fastened it to the chassis.

 

I dont know how much or what size I will need best guess in total around 10 metres, size 1/2"

 

Cheers

 

Mark

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Mounting-Boxes/5m-...uit/invt/715020 - Think it's also available in black.

Which is best book to buy to rebuild a Robin Hood with? Or am i missing the point and are they pretty much the same?

 

Thanks

Why bother with a book when you have a wealth of experience available here to call upon?

Items are also available in store. Picked up a 40 LED lamp this morning and looks OK for the cash.

Try these:

http://www.woolworths.co.uk/web/jsp/produc...sp?pid=50697087

http://www.woolworths.co.uk/web/jsp/produc...sp?pid=50965559

Spotted this on another forum I frequent (VW T4 forum and with credit to the original poster there Simplepsy), might be of interest.

http://www.woolworths.co.uk/web/jsp/...p?pid=50697087

http://www.woolworths.co.uk/web/jsp/...p?pid=50965559

1st link is for 500w halogen work lamps for £6.50

2nd link - 40 LED dual power work lamps - draw less power, smaller, less heat PLUS they can charge then use an internal battery.

Don't know if it's an interweb only offer or if they're also instore but no doudt someone else will find out.

1925 Alfa Romeo P2

...Pre 1990 minis that is.

Bit cheaper here http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=33787

Most likely to be a UNF thread as it's a banjo fitting so the adaptor shown in your photo must be a tapered thread as I can't se a washer sealing the face against the manifold - could well be something like an air line fitting (as in compressor not BA)

The Rover banjo bolt part number is 2A715 - which means it's been around for a while. You won't want to be buying a new one as they're about £18!!! The sealing washers are AED172 at about £1-50 each.

As an alternative, the same part is used on Rover 800 brake servo, most Rover 200 and 400 brake servos (except those with ABS), on Mini and Metro Brake servo. Suprisingly it also seems to be used on the mini for the oil pressure pipe that goes from the oil filter housing where it bolts to the engine block, so there shouldn't be a shortage of suitable parts in the scrapyard.

Or else buy this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MINI-METRO-TURBO-OIL...1QQcmdZViewItem

I'll try and do a bit more digging and find some thread sizes.