fry61

A mate with a fine torch on oxy-acetalene should be able to take all the temper out of the broken bits & then re-tap next size up -- maybe?

Or spark erosion ??

Before chopping off flush with the rear end -- consider that the wheel hoop is possibly protecting the fuel tank if rear ended.  ( which has occurred with Florin )

How much power required ?  A good lower cost solution would be standard injection & management, from a scrapper.

Complete stainless steel system made by Maniflow of Salisbury.

Bling -- Yes,  Discolouration -- Yes ( I like the heat affected zone colours )  Flexi-joint fitted where a stress fracture occurred -- no other problems 10 years old now & 53 K  exhaust heat cycles.  Expensive ??  £700  --  but it was exactly what I wanted ( plus the Mini-lite style wheels )

Had no problem with the performance was great to be driving her again.

Will try to do an accurate fuel/mileage check to confirm my calcs. 

Should add that all the spark plugs are all just a shade lighter than milk chocolate -- which I thought was near correct

Florin has thrown a "wobbly" on MPG ( Litre )  her 1800 CVH engine has always given around 38 MPG.   

Enforced lockdown & other medical stuff prevented her use to just 250 odd miles between 2020/21 MOTs

In the last couple of days we have been able to drive 150 odd miles, interrupted by a break down when the alternator lost a pivot bolt.

Battery voltage could have been low for those miles. 

And now the question --- would this cause the electronics to throw said "wobbly"

I have checked all connections associated with the XR 2 i  injection set up but cannot do any fault finding on ECU.

Help -- what needs doing --- a rough calculation says we are only now achieving approx  20 miles per gallon. ( 4.4 M/L ) 

Old school electrician --- very little knowledge of electronics & even less on computers 

1 hour ago, Pintogogo said:

I put a number plate lamp under bonnet in parallel with ignition light to excite alternator

Snap for that fix --- & I am an old school electrician ( retired 16 years ago from industrial work)

Belts passing through the seat makes the seat part of the belt structure & as such the tilt mechanism MAY not be strong enough OR put the belt run out of line.

Problems have reared their heads with belts through seats in the past because the seat is now part of the safety.

Hope I'm wrong --they look to be smart seats.

Hope it works out for you, we added 55 watt spots to boost the head beam.

Don't bother -- they will quickly go rusty again -- best "skim" is use, just a few applications will clean the surface.

As said above, we towed our trailer tent ( & at times an ordinary 750 kg gross trailer ) thousands of miles without incident.  Never had any problems with the tow or police.  Got stopped by police near Stonehenge at solstice time with t/tent , but they just needed to know if we planned on joining the muddy field mob. " No Officer, we are just trying to get to our home in Hampshire" " Carry on then Sir, nice car by the way"

Was told many years ago, " Rules are for fools -- & the guidance of wiser men "   So we try to only do one thing wrong at a time,  works so afar.

If the radius of the quadrant is greater please ensure the entry into the fixed outer cable sheath is in line (will need to be moved up ) -- will prevent wear/fraying of the inner.

He's mainly driving left banked ovals.

If you attempt to drive out the pin, please make sure there is a mate holding a very heavy tube over the other end to counter the force you apply, could be tears if you bend the mounts because the pin is rusty.

Can recall lending equipment to "Friends" & it's never been returned, " no, I didn't borrow it "  or "sorry it broke"  with no compensation for a pricey item which I no longer have the use of.  Goes against the grain every time it's needed.

NOT any persons on here though, but Marks idea is sound. 

It is also possible for the edge of the instruments to fail the 2.5 mm radius --- I got around this possible fail point by cutting the " gym mat" instrument holes just slightly larger than over-all diameter of the instrument/switch body. With the vinyl cut to the body size a "frenched" look was achieved & left the gauges just below flush.

A washer will be needed under your switch if fitted by a surface nut on the body.

Check with the IVA manual -- the bottom edge of the dash needs to be 19 mm radius / 38 mm diameter I seem to remember 

Get a sheet of hardboard & make a temporary dash, far easier to whittle to shape & once a final pattern is made ( there maybe more than one "temporary " ) transfer to your proper steel dash. 

Florin's dash is made from 6mm hardboard covered in foam mat & vinyl --- the radiused underside edge ( just above your legs ) is wood glued & shaped to the necessary 38 mm ??  Far easier than trying to fit a large radius to the steel. IMO

Maybe I've remembered the wheel diameter incorrectly -- they are long gone & probably a lot of my memories.

Wheels as shown above are on the standard hubs/brakes as removed from the '89 Sierra donor.

Original Minilites were cast from a magnesium alloy, I believe; hence the name.  These are bad news for ordinary mortals cars as road salt very quickly turns the metal to dust

9 hours ago, Bob Tucker said:

 Dont sweat it.....it will work.

Trust me -- I'm a pilot.

Have Minilite style wheels on Florin --- they were sold as an option for the Ford Ka & were bought from a Ford Dealer.

Size from memory is 4.5 or 5J  x 14" diameter.  We use tyres with a higher aspect ratio to make the rolling diameter the same ( near as ) the 15" normally fitted to Sierras.

All above from memory, would need to un-wrap Florin from her slumbers to check ;if required.

Your Zero appears to lack demister slots which I thought were already cut on 2B's along with the wiper holes, so a bit more to fill in prior to IVA.

No bonnet vents either on the Zero models?

Ka m/cylinder is 3/4 inch ( 19 mm ) bore, on Florin.