ibrooks

I too have the drive over guage (a Gunson product I think). Be careful of E-Bay for stuff like this as I've seen several on there where the starting price is the same as I paid for mine from a retailer. I think mine came from CPC in Fulwood - they are a bit like RS/Farnell/Maplin and do mail-order but I'm close enough to call in so don't pay the postage. I think Frost sell them too. www.cpc.co.uk www.frost.co.uk Iain

I'm also iterested in this as I think it's the biggest downside to my S7. I'm selling the car but if it's a relatively easy job I'd do this for the added value. Other points to consider - Is the box overall a different length and what is the fitting on the output shaft i.e. do we need a new prop-shaft. What is the drive ratio for the speedo or or do we need a new one of those too. If anyone has done it I'd be interested in the answers too (even if they are just info for the new owner). Iain

The shocks should surely be to the front of the pilar (or did I build mine wrong). Mine will catch on the top arm and therefore not move with the hub but the steering has to be disconnected and the wheels off to get it to move that far. At the rear I can see it would be worse as there is less of an arc before things touch. I'd suggest checking that first. If you're still short of room try spacers as Pete says or maybe RWD wheels (see my epic on wheels from earlier today). Iain

I've done quite some messing with Fords at one time or another so here are the fruits of my knowlege. Fords in the last couple of decades have used either four or five studs. The four stud ones (what we're interested in) all have the same PCD (spacing of the studs) and taper on the wheel-nuts (most people don't think of that one). They came, however, with two offsets. The "RWD" offset was used on Anglias, Escorts, Capri's, Cortinas etc. The "FWD" offset was used on front all wheel drive Fords and the Sierra's. If you fit wheels from a RWD car to a Sierra they will sit further out and give the car a wider track (and probably more clearance from your suspension) you will put more stress on wheel-bearings and make the steering heavier. The wider track is a good thing for us. The extra stress on the bearings is probably not worth mentioning as our cars are a lot lighter than they were designed for and we probably don't do enough mileage to wear them out for a long time anyway. The heavier steering - personal sacrifice but again our cars are much lighter than the system was designed for so we can probably absorb the detriment without having a problem. So look for alloys ade to fit a Cortina, Escort, Capri or similar and you won't go far wrong. Different manufacturers - Puregrot use the same PCD ad offset for their recent motors as the Ford RWD so these will fit but the taper on the nuts is different and the centre spigot is different so you will need secial wheelnuts and a spacer ring to go over the spigot of your ford. Any questions PM me and if you can get over here I have several sets of wheels you could try for size to get an idea of what you're after. Iain

The small end goes forwards. My 2B failed on too much braking effort on the rollers and he didn't take the inertia valve into account. I got a valve from a Rover Metro to solve the problem and it worked a treat. The Metro has a pair of said valves (so I got both) if you but a bleed nipple and leave the t-piece attached then it will fit in the space the inertia valve comes out of so I would fit one or the other as a first hit and it's then even easier to swap to the other one at a later date if you so desire. On a Rover Metro (and 100 I'd assume) the valves are fastened to the bulkhead on the opposite side to the servo (passenger side). Iain

We're back to punishing them in such a way that they won't do it again. I should have added that my intention was actually that they should be so scared of the punishment that they won't do it in the first place - inevitably there would be the first few that would actually have to suffer the punishment (oh dear what a terrible shame). I too get paid per mile for business use 40p in fact and I love it. My everyday car is a 1992 Rover 214i which cost me £200. My insurance costs approx £450 per year which includes the business use. It does slightly over 45mpg. I'm currently working 70 miles from home and will be for 4 weeks thats £56 per day just for the privelege of getting myself there and coming home again. In a normal week I cover slightly over 200 miles on business.

Yes but that's because you're being careful not to damage the surrounding area or whatever it's fastened to. Think to yourself how quickly you could break the whole thing off with a big screwdriver used as a lever and not caring if you leave big scratches or dents. This is something else I think should be changed in this country. We just seem to try to make it harder for these little horrors to comit the crime. Why don't we start actually catching them and punishing them in such a way that they won't do it again instead of just making it a challenge for them? Iain

So whose is the Stainless and blue 2B that passed me coming out of Airbus Chester (Broughton) on Monday? And how many more of us are employed on the various BAe (and derivative) sites around the country? I know of another 2B builder at Warton but don't think he uses this board (not sure if he's a member either). Iain

I agree with the "front up at the local office" method. I turned up and asked them what they wanted from me. The lady went through the forms and told me just what to supply and helped with some of the ambiguous questions (manufacture date - is that the donor, the kit or when I finished building it?). I then went back in to see them about my address having changed between the start and end of the process and finally a couple of weeks ago I turned up with the MAC and other paperwork and got a tax disc there and then. The only annoying bit was that after taking it up there for a built up vehicle inspection (which the woman had told me I needed to get a chassis number issued) the inspector asked where the chassis number was. I told him that was why I was there - to have one issued and he told me that I should have made one up. I was annoyed so I didn't tell him he had left his mag-lite on the trailer - and a very nice torch it is too. Iain

I actually work for CSC. We have the outsourcing contract for BAeSystems IT. I have worked at Lostock (missile factory) for about 5 years but wanted to get into project work so in the space of 12 months I worked at BAe's Farnborough, Portsmouth, Barrow, Warton, Salmesbury, Brough, Dept of Health Leeds, Royal Mail Farnworth, David LLoyd leisure in Bolton, Whitbread Food Logistics in Ordsall and Basell at Carrington (we don't just look after BAe). See Jim - this is why it takes me so long to do stuff. I have recently changed jobs and now cover BAe's Lostock, Chadderton, Woodford and Royal Ordnance Radway Green. But just to confuse the issue I have been "borrowed" to cover for someone who quit at Airbus Chester so for the next 3 weeks I'm driving 70 miles each way either side of an 8 hour day. But I get 40p per mile when I use my own car for business use. So to answer the original question - no I'm not working at Warton at the moment, but you never know when I'll re-appear there. Iain

I was working at Warton before the last show - we got a free preview of the display that the Typhoons were going to be doing as they were practicing over the airfield. Looks quite impressive when you see it flying up and down the length of the runway stood on it's tail doing about 20mph (our exhausts aren't really that loud after all). Iain

Having signed the official secrets act to work here it's re-assuring to know that I get snippets like this that the rest of you out there won't know. For example I got this one earlier today. Dear Colleague The Farnborough International Airshow is taking place next week and consequently roads and access around Farnborough and Aldershot will be heavily impacted. We recommend people avoid visiting the area if at all possible between the dates of 19 and 25 July 2004. UK Internal Communications

There was a Top Gear spin-off about the Lotus 7 (the car's the star maybe). It was hosted by Quentin Wilson and included an interview from the guy who delivered the Lotus in the last episode of the prisoner (he was the only one on the production crew that could both drive and fit in it) - I taped it at the time as it was on during the day and I saw it the other week whilst looking for something else. Vicki Butler-Henderson raced a Locost in an episode of whatever it is she does (fifth gear? or was it the Top Gear specials?) - she bashed it and it looked like a singularly difficult paint-job to match (all sort of like paint splatters - but deliberate looking). Iain

Lots! I got one packet of whatever length it is that they sell and it was only enough to do two of the pipes. I also had a metal heatshield I'd made so just doing the outside two was enough to protect the stuff around them (clutch cable, alternator, brake-pipes etc). Iain

I know cheapest isn't always best but if Proven Products stuff is cheapest then I'd go for it. I bought mine from them and it's lasted 2 years on the 4-into-1 on my Sierra and was then taken off and rolled up in reparation for wrapping the 2B exhaust when the same engine is implanted in that (no Jim I haven't done it yet). I would however say that the clips they supplied aren't worth the effort (I suspect they are designed for use with a proper tool which I ain't got) - just get some stainless jubilee clips and use a smear of copper grease to lubricate the worm drives. Iain

Well guys I shall now on the large floppy ears, tail and start making the obligatory braying noise - like the donkey I am. My local extortionists (sorry petrol station) sell the magazine. I never thought to look until last night when I was filling the tin-top and saw a guy turn right when he went in to pay and then when he cam out he was clutching a newspaper. Thanks as always for the suggestions guys. Iain

Fairly certain that Car Builder Solutions used to offer a universal kit (but you had to supply the compressor). Iain

You have got a short alloy sump haven't you? (RS2000). The Cozzy came with an alloy sump but it's not much different height-wise to the normal Sierra offering and since the blocks are the same as a late Pinto it will fit. Iain

Modifications make no difference whatso to the required viscosity. The relevant factor for that is the size of the oil-ways. Modifications may result in you wanting an oil with a higher temperature tolerance (if you're going to be using it in serious anger) and in the case of lumpier cams you want something with a higher film strength to protect them (and their folowers). Basically get the highest API rating you can find. Don't assume race oil is better either, it's designed to perform well at continuous high temps only - it may have the correct viscosity ratings at cold but it takes longer to get warm and so is not a good match for the engine at "normal" operating temps - it really is for racing. Iain

Hi Mitch, I've tried WHS and they've said they'll get it in for me but I'm still waiting for a call (I have a suspicion I'll wait a long time). Not tried a Spar - I'll stick my head in there next time I get a chance. Rizla, The website (such as it is) is www.ppcmag.co.uk. Iain

Wotcher folks, Having heard several people rave about this mag I've been looking for somewhere to buy my very own copy. Unfortunately no luck. Does anyone know a stockist in the Darwen/Blackburn/Bolton area. I've found the website but it only has numbers for subscriptions, which I may well do but I want to read it myself first to see if I think it's any good. Failing this could anyone lend me the issues that are out so-far (I'm specifically interested in the DIY fuel injection stuff). Iain

Assuming the ride height is correct they obviously have too long a closed length. What's your car based on? don't know the series 2 off the top of my head but I didn't think RH ever based a car on a Capri (should they be Cortina instead?). Why did you fit Capri items? Iain

The guy who tested mine at Chadderton the other week was good but when I went back for the re-test the guy who started it was obviously going to be an awkward git. Fortunately the original tester appeared to check the Skyline behind me and my dad said something to him which prompted him to come and swap jobs with the tosser (who seemed to be just as popular with his colleagues as he was going to make himself with me). Not just certain what dad said to him but I'm glad he did. Iain

Good advice but a bit superfluous here as he's doing it to replace the dust cover in the first place. Personally I don't like the fork type as they almost inevitablydestroy the rubber cover. The see-saw type are much better if you'r hoping to use the joint again afterwards. Iain

If you're looking at the front of the engine it goes clockwise. I think (but I'm fairly certain). Looking at your diff question does this mean you've bought a Jap engine that turns the wrong way? I've seen these used with Escort/Cortina axles which were just turned over (not quite that simple but not too hard either). I would imagine turning a Sierra diff over to be a much more complex proposition as it's not symetrical (the live axles are - nearly). I seem to remember that there were some issues with the type-9 box running backwards as the oil is just splashed around to lubricate it and some of the baffles inside are the wrong shape so some parts don't get the oil they should. Iain