Jez Morton

On mine I reprofiled the front and rear of the stainless to bring arches down and filled gap left at top with new stainless. I rebent the bottom returns one tab up at rear and two at front, this is the max you can go keeping some angle from body to outer wing. 

I believe its 1/8 NPT. But please check.

If I remember correctly you need to time the CAM at full lift on inlet valve one with crank at 108deg after TDC.

Having no expansion tank is your biggest problem. When the engine warms up the coolant expands and is pushed out of the cap but when it cools and the coolant contracts it will suck in air instead of coolant from the expansion tank. Look at old ford tanks Capri/cortina they're ideal. 

The problem I found is the metal is too thin and bends away between the studs. I had to add a reinforcing ring inside the tank to stop this. 

I'll be there. 

I believe the inner metal tube that the bolt passes through does not move it acts as a spacer in the bracket to stop the Bush being crushed. The Bush should be the only moving part between the damper and suspension bracket. Personally I grease every thing as this stops corrosion between the metal parts. If you have a bonded rubber Bush then the rubber forms part of the suspension and these need to tightened at ride height or you have tension in the rubber.

Just a bit of advice from experience, the two bolts that connect with the servo are not the intended load bearing points. If you only use these the metal will flex and will crack, mine did on my old S7. The hole on top that's elongated is the load bearing attachment in the Sierra, you can see there is more metal here. In my 2B I created a triangle bracket bolted on the top and to the front mounting plate and also braced it back to the chassis.

I would also advise not to cut and well the pedal, it's made from very hard steel and designed to take a lot of force. Any weld would create a weak point.

14 hours ago, peter_m7uk said:

Hi Jez, thanks for the reply.  Out of interest, are you going to run the engine any time soon??  If so, could you look at the rev counter and tell me the speed when you first run cold, please?  If you're going to warm it up as well, then could you give me the rpm when fully warm too?  I don't have anything to compare my engine to, so that would be very helpful.  Thanks 

When cold somewhere between 1000/1200, then drops to 900 warm.

I've had an efi in my kit for 15 years and I couldn't tell what it's supposed to be. I know it fuels more when cold so a higher idle is most likely normal. I think efi is more of an electric carb tbh. If its your temp sensor at fault you get high rpm when warm, mine did.

9 hours ago, LeicJim3a said:

If your going with 15w40 why not semi synthetic? It's better than mineral I,ve used it for years.

When you say hose ends, are you talking about the hose that is on the side of the rad cap? If so this is just expanding coolant due to heat and you need a catch tank so it can drawn back in when it cools. If you don't have a catch tank the expanded coolant gets replaced with air which could cause your over heating.

One thing I found is the impeller on the water pump, some have a cheap folded metal one which isn't very good, go for a cast impeller pump.

I believe the viscous part of the pump is for the fan and can be removed if you have an electric fan.

Had great drive down.

Houndshill House
Banbury Road
Ettington
Stratford-upon-Avon
CV37 7NS

Looks like we have few dry days before the weekend. So I'm getting the hood out and venturing to Caffeine and Machine tomorrow (Thursday). Its a non ticket day so no need to book. If anyone's up for it I'm planning on getting there around 7:30ish.

If you go by this generic diagram I found, looks like connect bottom of header to lower rad hose and top to top hose or heater pipe. Tank has to be higher than cooling system.

Just canvasing opinions on these, has any one got any experience of using one? Do they really live up to their promises? is there an alternative?

Thanks Jez

That's only for the first year after registration then it's the £165 standard rate for cars registered after 2017.

EVs are getting taxed at £165, but some old diesels remain at £20 or £30 quid?

Ill be there.

It's more likely the chassis isn't quite true, mine needs more camber adjustment on one side. When l looked into my geometry the top wishbone mounts to are a little offset to the lower.

You need to make sure which alternator diagram is correct.

The 6mm should be ring terminal to battery, it may need to bigger wire depending on alternator output.

IG should connect to a switched live.

L wire to warning lamp and other side of lamp to IG.

S depends on alternator but would be 2mm to battery.

If you have a small Denso type alternator (40amp) it may not give enough juice if you're fuel injected.

I've seen a couple on fleabay recently.

Thought they maybe too big but looks ok to post here.

I've sent you some photos.