Big Jim

Just car shampoo when it gets mucky, and to get it really clean use cheap window spray cleaner, the cheaper the better somwhow. Don't use Windowlene, it's crap. Then I'm told that you can polish it up with other stuff to put some "protection" on it, but I've never got that far, the first time I did try it, it streaked like mad, so never bothered again.

how's that car coming along Ian? or are we in the "donor car still"??

Did you not get it into top gear then Daz?? you just look the criminal type you see!!!!

take the "box" apart that is under the bonnet, behind the dash, the pedals are there. You'll find that the plastic ratchet is worn, so you will need a new one. It could even be worth finding out what uncle Henry wants for a new one, as taking one from a scrap car is a pain.

If you had checked out the article on the northwest web site about how to do your side panels & rear arches, you wouldn't have a problem. Go and have a look, and i think you will find the answer to your problem. The link to it is near the end of the page. how to fit the 2B side panels and wheel arches will work now, I had the wrong web address loaded

the ones that I've seen using this dizzy, just leave it on but don't use it, but it might come off and be able to be "blanked" over, it would certainly look better.

There are a few places that will make a hood for you, some are better than others, do go with someones recommendation rather than with price. If you still need somewhere, there is a guy up this way (Lancashire, Wigan area) who makes the hoods for JBA's and Beaufords, he's expensive, but he's the best!

Try about 21 lb in both.

Ok then, yes you will need a sump, the original one is no good as it's at 7º, and the Manta one won't fit the Exmo, unless you cut off the "big wings" and weld it up, Not recommended. The Manta sump will however fit the 2B. you do not want the engine tilted at 7º you may want to put those bloody expensive big end bolts in, £64 set of 8 bolts!! but it does give you an extra 1000 rpm to play with, you'll need a pair of sump gaskets. start looking ror the correct Cavalier ignition, they are like rocking horse poo up this way. you will need (according to Simon) the coil & amplifier, and dizzy (it's the one with a vac advance unit on, but you don't actually use it) I could never find one that was in one piece, so I finished going Mapped. You will also need a clutch plate (although you can use the sierra one, but it's a bit small on the O/D) try one from a Sierra Diesel estate (get the man to check the OD size & compare it to the Vauxhall, I think that it's right to within 2mm)

Right then Barry, you will have all the problems that both Simon and myself had, the biggest headache that I found was the pedals. I assume that you can do a certain amount of metalwork & bracket making? Go to the "newsheet" on our northwest site, in one of the postings, there are 3 links to web sites, put them into your 'Favourites' and check them every day, sooner or later the bits that you want will turn up on one of those sites, but be quick, they don't hang around!

you will need to change the sump, but it depends on which car (model) you are putting the engine into. If it's a 2B, then you can either get a "pucka" Ally sump from SBD or QED (£216) or a tin one from Yukspeed (£160) or the Opel Manta sump will fit. The problem with the standard one, is that it's designed for the engine to be tilted over at 7º. Welcome to Vauxhall Power, you will not be disapointed!

If you look on e-bay, there's a Robin Hood there, with about 2 days left to go on it, and the guy has a reserve of £2100 on it (he's actually said that) it's been on the road so no SVA to bother about, but does need a little bit of work on it. That could be your way to go! There are also plenty of kits that are either unstarted, or part built, you'll find 2 or 3 in every kitcar mag, plus on "findit" I personally feel that RS has decided that those engines have to go (he's had them about 2 years now!) and this could be the way to move them, don't forget, for your £8000, you will get a nice new number on your registration plate. it will cost you twice as much for that with any other make. I also think that he'll come back down the ladder eventually!

Just to buck up those 2B builders that think the quality of the kit is not as good as they thought, this is taken from the Locost chat group. makes you think!!!.................. "Have a look around at others' posts who've done an Avon. I can only think of one person who's said they're happy as opposed to several who said it's complete crap. If you're are spending as much money as Longlife then you're got a lot of scope for a fantastic MK Indy or maybe a Luego (not sure of Luego's pricing). Check out: http://www.m-keenan.freeserve.co.uk/ In fact for that money I'd have thought you could maybe do a bike engined MKIndy. "

There's a diagram of the best way to wire up your fan & relay on our web site. (mind you, it was in the last RHOCAR mag, if you're a member!) Fan wiring

Now, now Karl! For all those that are wondering what Karl means, check out the last few reports on the Northwest web site..........(Lancaster run, Stoneleigh & Cheshire)............. Te He!!! Northwest reports

Give "nuts" in Chorley a ring, they love our cars, and have a photo of Dave Tommo's on the wall, they will post you anything that you want, and are very reasonable on price (½ the price of the con artist at the shows) they will also get you any of those awkward sizes of special threads, within a day or so. I can really recommend them. Their number is, 01257 264040 their web site is. nuts of Chorley

Mine was fine when I had the servo, (mark 3) so I've no idea what the problem is if it's not what Ian suggests.

I would say that there's no problem with fitting an electric pump, I've had to for the Vauxhall engine as it doesn't have a manual one.

Simon Cooper & I have both got Vauxhall engines in, and that means no Servo room. Check out my build to see what I have done, works OK. Engine swop

There you go! Main power feed from the battery goes onto the large terminal on the solenoid, then the "trigger" wire, powered on start position of ignition switch, goes to the spade terminal. There's nothing on the "push on" terminal. Also make sure that you have a GOOD earth wire direct from the battery to the engine.

the one thing that was done well on my car was the screen pillars.A couple of pieces of flat bar were welded onto the side supports, forming a channel that the windscreen frame fits into, then the weld was dressed up smooth. The screws fit in from the side as normal, but the frame is supported by this "channel" There's can be a LOT of force on those screws when you've got the hood on especially. I hope that you can see what I mean from the photo. But don't put your sidescreen hinges on the outside like this, put them on the inside.

I've just been in touch with Wunoff silencers, they have sent me details if anyone wants them, e-mail me off board so that I can attach them. they are offering it to club members for £150 inc VAT. that is very similar to the Custom Chrome one. They also say that the noise level will be under 110 db for whatever engine. incleds the input pipe & brackets etc although not shown on the piccy.

Tapers are machined to a "British standard Morse taper" size, so a ball joint made for Ford will fit a Rover taper hole,providing it's a matching size, and that's providing the hole is machined correctly. The small diameter of the taper must NOT come through, or be level with the outer edge of the hole. (Hands up those who remember RH telling you to "wiggle a drill" in the hole to open it up so as to fit the taper in the other way!) I don't like nylock nuts for this application (although we have to put up with them sometimes) castlated nuts are no longer used due to penny-pinching on production, if you can, get hold of a "Cleve-lock" nut, this looks very similar to a nylock, but where the nylon would be, there are a couple of threads that have been "squashed" (for want of a better term) these are MUCH better than nylock. You should also use a plain flat washer under any of these nuts (not too thin either!)

For a guy that's supposed to be overwhelmed with work, up to his eyeballs with jobs at home, new family, kitcar to build, what the hell is he doing leaving the country! Holiday's AGAIN!

If you fit the DGAS, you would be better off with the dizzy, coil & module from an early Sierra, you don't want big ECU box's (piccy of module below) If you've got a fast cam, then you will need to alter your ignition timing, you can either spend money on one of those lumination dizzy's etc, or alter your own by reading up on Dave Andrews page about this. If you decide to do your own, be aware that the dizzy doesn't come apart the way it looks like it does.