geoff shep

Soak them is easing oil, and keep soaking them, then you might be able to get them out with mole mole grips or something similar. They do like to shear off though. If you get them out it's worth replacing them with new ones.

This is a quote: 3. The wiper blade or blades shall return automatically to a position of rest which shall be at or beyond the outer edge of the area swept by the wiper and shall be capable of being displaced from this position on the windscreen to allow for windscreen cleaning. from this document Don't know how current - there are a lot of things in the vehicle regulations eg postioning of lights, that are not checked at MOT - but which presumably would be checked for SVA. When I built mine I got all the info from the library but that was before the interweb.

With a diff ratio of 4:1 back axle goes round once for every 4 turns of prop shaft. So 4:1 is lower gearing than 3:1, ie wheels go slower. Check here for VIN information VIN Decoder

Mine's A reg, built in 95/96 and its never been emissions tested at MOT - am I just lucky?

I don't think there should be any turning around the bolts should there? They should be done up tight (with the car settled at its normal height and weight - so leave them slack until everything's in) holding the centre bush tube firm. Any movement as the damper goes in and out (there should not be much rotational movement) is provided by the rubber. So presumably it doesn't matter then whether the bolts are threaded or shouldered. PS - learnt from being ridiculed in fixfirm - the 'shouldered' ones are bolts and the totally threaded ones are set screws.

Got my S7 propshaft on exchange from RHE - don't know if they still do that. The doughnut was only really a damper in a straight run of the shaft on the sierra. In your S7, even if you think you've got the run dead straight (and the standard fit isn't straight - you need to lower the gearbox mount to get it near straight) the doughnut ends up acting like a uj and it doesn't like it. Early on there were a lot of doughnuts going - I remember talking to a bloke at a show who had had the thing go at speed. Fortunately the S7 tunnel is relatively thick but it had thrashed around inside the tunnel and made it into a round cross section and actually moved the tunnel wall into his thigh. Advise changing it for a proper (ha, ha) shaft asap.

PM inbound

Which kit did it come with please. I'm after one to fit an S7.

Carlife Rubbercoat contact details: Rubbercoat Used on the underside and inside all GRP panels for sound deadening and stone chip protection - so far so good.

I had one of these - same car too. On the sierra, the drive runs from the gearbox via the rubber coupling to a fixed bearing so there is no bending at the donut - its just a shock absorber. You would probably find - if you could look along the tunnel - that the gearbox-to-diff run is not in line so the donut is taking a lot of bending. I lowered my gearbox rear mount to get the run as straight as poss but still soon got rid of the rubber. There were horror stories at the time of donuts failing at high speed and in one case the flailing end of the propshaft bashed the tunnel sides out until they were almost circular in section - right by the bloke's knees! As I remember, the front ends to get were off transit vans or cortinas and then get them mated to your own rear end. Anything with a live axle should have UJs. The front ends were different sizes also depending on whether they went into a 2 litre or 1600. Robin Hood certainly used to make up prop shafts if you produced the bits - you just had to specify the required length.

I made it from wire - a coat hanger I think - and brazed it on. A bit rusty and covered in bugs but you get the idea.

Isn't it something like this? The grommet goes in the hole in the bulkhead, the bush thingy goes in from the driver's side and the triangular spring washer pushes down from the driver's side to prevent the bush coming back up the shaft.

I have this which may not be the latest version. I found the reference document in the library when I built mine - I don't know whether this info is in the SVA book these days. If you have a reversing light (optional) which can only be actuated by selecting reverse gear then there are pretty few regs. For the fogs there are restrictions on min/max height and proximity to rear lights. http://www.hmso.gov.uk/si/si1989/Uksi_1989...96_en_1.htm#end

nelly, see previous thread: http://community.rhocar.org/index.php?show...wtopic=1362&hl=

You might some hope at Rally Design HERE

Personally, I don't think so. I fitted it originally but removed it and tidied up the brake runs later - with absolutely no ill effects. In any event, I don't know how you can get the mounting angle correct for your particular car's weight/springs/front rear weight split etc. (You do mean the inertia restrictor thingy in the back brake line I presume?)

This has most of the answers you want: VIN codes

There's a topic further down in this forum about the problems of getting the sump off with the engine in. I have an S7 too - getting the engine out is no problem. There is enough room to separate the engine and gearbox - it only has to go forward by a couple of inches. You will have to remove the fan if using the viscous unit and removing the radiator would be sensible - even if you can squeeze the engine out past it, one small dink will ruin it. While the engine's out take the chance to inspect the engine bay for cracks, especially where the floor disappears under the footwells, check the gearbox oil etc

I used the re-forming the nipple method. The adjustment is best made at the offside end. Either way, put some solder on the cable before cutting it and the strands will all stay nicely together without fraying - frayed ends are difficult to re-thread through the outers. I pulled all the slack out through the offside brake and then clouted a drilled out bolt onto the cable to make a new nipple. If you have welding equipment you can leave some cable protruding through the bolt and chase it back down with the welder.

Done some research on this and picked up the leaflet at Newark. The number on it is still the one which has been giving everyone no joy, but instead of Carlife, cheques are now payable to 'D Mercer'. A search for him, at the 51 Oxford Ave address on the BT electronic phone book gives his number as 01943 873008. Haven't tried it - but it might be worth a try. Click Here for a shabby copy of the price list. This is the online BT directory enquiries: http://www.bt.com/directory-enquiries/dq_home.jsp

Does the DGAS bolt directly onto a standard DGAV pinto manifold?

No, they are (were?) standard. Top half is perspex, bottom half vinyl covered wood. They're pretty naff really - i have seen numerous different styles/materials and mine have to be one of the worst. Can't help you out with the real thing at Newark as I've managed to let the MOT run out - thought I was going to be away this weekend anyway - now I'm free but without my RH. I'll sort some pictures out.

Not sure of the current style but mine fold in half lengthways and store up against the outside wall of the passenger footwell. Top folds up behind passenger seat.

Its always worth a bit of a search for similar previous questions. Shiny hard filters look good but can spoil your bonnet - see here: http://community.rhocar.org/index.php?a...t=128&hl=filter

I've just gone from original sierra steel wheels with std tyres to 14 inch pepperpots with lower profile tyres (couldn't refuse five refurbed wheels with brand new tyres for £75) and I recken the ride is less good. Possibly better performing if it was a race car but more jittery and harder ride.