geoff shep

Its even more complicated I think. Ford VV was only on the 1.6 so it shouldn't be one of those. 2L pintos had a weber 2V - either a 32/36 DGAV up to 1985 or a 30/34 (?) DFTH post 1985 - which is presumably what you have. The DGAV (A is for auto choke - DGV is manual choke) is a good carb and has twin, square chokes. DFTH has rounded chokes. 38 DGAS (from a V6?) is apparently the way ahead though, with similar performance to twin webers but better mpg - is that the case?

Same model, the probem is the width between side rail and tunnel side being very narrow. There are narrow seats around - a lot of locost guys seem to like the baby cubs, like these Baby Cubs - backs are about 14 inches wide I believe. Apparently this place does them for £99 per pair http://www.midlandwheels.com/ although I can't see them on their website.

I thought I'd done well with a set of 5 14" pepperpots, all newly blasted and coated and 5 brand new tyres (still with the injection mould hairy bits) for £75 but that looks like an all time good deal.

I think you need to be careful with insurance - if you are a bit 'economical with the truth' you will find your insurance isn't worth the paper it's printed on. If all you want it for is to get the tax disc that's fine but if you have an incident and you're not insured you'll be in the poo, and obviously if you make a claim it'll be looked at very closely. I have a limited mileage policy and I have to tell them the mileage at each renewal. If it were to be over the stated figure when you had a prang I guess you'd be up the proverbial creek.

Presumably you can lubricate it with brake fluid?

Soz!

Just chop the top off - but then you won't have a threaded end - or chop it above and below the rubber shock absorber and weld back together, at the angle you need. (That effectively makes a quick(er) shift as the top is now shorter and bottom the same)

Ant - can that be correct about fwd? When you coast, with power off, there is still self centring on fwd cars.

Tyre size calculator Try this handy calculator - compare donor wheels vs supplied ones - you can save the page and use it offline too. Tyre Size Calculator

Have any of you got hold of rubbercoat recently? I recommended it to a mate recently but he was unable to get it from Carlife - anyone know who does it now. I'd be interested to know if anyone sees it at Stoneleigh, which I won't be able to make. I'd thoroughly recommend it however, as a protector, sound deadener and protector for the fibre glass from stone chips etc.

Stuart - here's the picture of the RH V12 from my 1995 build manual: Although I'm not sure where the driver's feet go! Perhaps you could try this: V12

Assuming you have a pinto engine, here's one: Short Sump

Strangely, I don't find them too bad although there's not much insulation from vibrations and there's no side support. I will be putting others in when I find the right ones. At the time I built it I was being treated for lymphoma and completed it pretty much to bottom spec as I didn't want to invest too heavily - all in about £2200 on the road. The most expensive thing was 5 new tyres. Now I'm modding bits here and there. Replaced the engine (for another pinto) and just got a set of refurbed pepperpot alloys plus brand new tyres (5 off) for £75. Next will be ties bars and rear wheel spacers to sort out the camber and the seats. New engine? - I rather fancy the sound of a V6 which would be a small project in itself.

Same. supplied rad bolted straight to front crossmember using existing rad lugs. No probs in 7 years. This almost shows it: engine bay

Yes, agreed, you need to use glue. I used the supplied spray glue which worked well initially but is now coming unstuck. Mine's obviously a monocoque, but used one piece over tunnel top and sides, one piece each side wall round to front footwell and one piece for boot floor and down behind seat backs. Floors each side are plywood and have a rubber mat under driver's feet to stop them slipping on the wood. Mat needs to be stuck down or it rucks up. Gear/brake levers gaiters are supplied vinyl cones and trims are cut from alloy sheet. Not sure if this helps or is relevant to tubies? Here's a picture if it's any use: Cockpit

There is a company called Wunoff (is that what you were thinking of?) who do repackable silencers/manifolds etc suitable for RHs - at one stage there were doing 10% discount for club members too.

My cycle wing brackets broke in the first year (1995 S7) mostly due to vibration fatigue I think. They were then made from tube, which was crushed flat where required to get bolted to the hub - they fractured at the point where they were flattened. Welded them back together and they've been fine since.

I must admit I'm not up to speed on current kits but the stuff that came with my kit was not sikaflex - in fact my build manual specifically says that it isn't - but 'a similar type of sealant'. I got my sikaflex from Brown Brothers but lots of motor factors will have it - and it's much better than the supplied stuff or silicone. I found those stainless rivets ok but not brilliant. Hard work as mentioned and often not gripping as tight as I'd like - the pin seemed to break before full compression was achieved. Marine chandlers are a good place to get them if desperate but anything stainless for boats is instantly double the price!