harvs

Think I'll go down the cut & clamp route.... What do the 'clamps' look like / and any ideas where you can get them from? Cheers James

Gavin Master cylinder - yep, that's right. If you look at master cylinder, the connections for the front are slightly larger than the ones to the rear. My superspec is one of the early ones (I'm just slow at getting it finished....) so all panels were already in place (lucky me....!). I'd guess at: 3 blade propeller - this shounds like the piece which is pushed (after bending the ends) in to the fuel filler neck, so that you can only put unleaded in. bridge shape - not sure on this one, but could it be the piece which fits on the horizontal chassis member which is directly behind the seats, with the holes in for the seat belt fixings? Hope this helps James

Hi Gavin As I understand it... Left and right brake pipes can be connected to either, but front and back must be connected the right way around. In a production car, the master cylinder is turned through 180 degrees, and the front ports go to the front and the back ports to the back. As the master cylinder is turned around in the super spec, then the back ports go to the front, and the front to the back. That's what I've done. Cheers James

Ah, thanks Bill I'll have to get my protractor out (I'm sure I've got one somewhere...) and have a play around. Looking at your diagram though, I guess it will be pretty tricky. And is probably why I've not really seen anyone else with this arrangement... James

I've tried to look through all the previous posts on this, but can't seam to find the answer.... What I have found is that the front indicators must... be less than 400 mm from side have height between 350 and 1500mm have min separation 500mm and have a flash rate between 60 and 120 per min But are there any SVA rules about how far back they can go? I'm thinking about attaching them to the side panel just behind the nose cone, rather than the nose cone itself - are you allowed to do this? Any thoughts, comments or suggestions appreciated!.......

Dan OK - thought it sounded too good to be true...! Will drain & refill in time for cold winter days. Cheers James

Cheers Alen I'm still building my super spec, and have plain water in it at the moment. I thought that I'd have to empty it and refill with appropriate water/anti freeze combination to avoid any damage. But it sounds like I'll be ok to just leave it, and save some time messing around with it James

Alan - are you saying you can leave the car over winter with no anti freeze, and I'll be ok?

Hi Grizzly I've just set one against the wall and measured to the front of the foam - 65cm. The thickness of the foam is less than 5cm where your back will be (measured through the seat belt holes). This is certainly less than the RH seats, and how much less will depend on how far reclined you had them... Cheers James

This is what I'm going for, from AES. £2.50 each plus VAT & postage. Cheers James http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/prod...?product_id=152

I've just bought a set of cobra clubman's. I haven't fitted them yet, but I have put them in the living room, and practiced sitting on them while pretending to drive... They have a reasonable amount of padding, so I'm expecting them to be fine. One observation is that I think I'll need to raise the front slightly higher than the back when fitted, as they are quite upright. You can bolt these straight to the floor - and will be much lower than RHE seats. I'm thinking about using the runners from the RH seat and fitting them to the clubmans - should still be lower than the RH seats. Bought them off ebay (new) for £165 for both. Hope this helps?! James

All the best. Enjoy the drive out James

Hi Matthew The fuel pump should cut off after a few seconds, if you don't start it up. I've got my filter mounted horizontally at it works fine. It is possible that there's an air lock in the fuel filter. So, you could try shaking it a bit etc. Not sure if you've actually got it running? If not, are you certain you've got the feed and return correct? (I got mine the wrong way round...) White out of fuel tank is feed, then fuel filter then the inlet connection at the rear of the enging (near pedal box). Return is at front of engine (out of the regulator) back to the red connection on fuel tank. Not sure on the manifold point (mine was already done ) James

If ET can't get it going....

Dave I've saved a copy of those articles. If you PM me your email address, I'll forward them on Cheers James

I just use Heller 19 pce Budget HSS Drill Bit Set - under £10 from machine mart. They've always seamed to work fine - just work up the drill sizes rather than going for pilot then big hole! James

B&Q do metal sheets of mesh, with a few different designs. The one I went for was quite open - sort of a squashed diamond design. Cheers James

Fantastic news wrighty Congratulations James

Just in case anyone else comes across this..... Fixed it now It was the Green/Blue wire, and needed to connect the other end in. (It's not on the wiring diagram!) Works fine now. James

Cheers GB I'll be off to maplin at the weekend James

Yep - he's already bringing some new seats, guess I can ask him to throw some swtiches in the sack too....

Cheers Will - I've seen those, and they look really good. I'd probably get them, if they didn't cost so much - over £20 for the hazard switch!

I like your thinking!

Great, thanks Chris Ths switches I've see light up when on, so should be fine. Thanks for you help James

Hi I've been reserching switches (very exciting..) and have seen some cheap ones (less than £2 each at maplin. They look fairly smooth, so should be ok for sva radius test. But does anyone know if you need to have labels on them for the sav? Or would I be ok to have 5ish switches, all looking the same, and only me knowing what they do? Any thoughts appreciated! James