Bob Tucker

I'm planning to be there, hopefully in the hood.

Disconnect the coil ht lead to check ignition timing isnt stopping it turning

It was precipitating cats and dogs for my Iva so I used a sheet of thick plastic and duct tape to make a snug tonneau cover that just gave room for me to get in. The examiner creased up when he saw it but he did appreciate the dry seat. Lasted 40 miles at about 50 no problem.

Polyfacto made the original RH hoods...may be worth a call

I've used Gillingham for my own and several other cars. They have been very thorough but understanding. They have failed some but were very clear about what they want to see to be able to pass it on the retest. They were also helpful on the phone before submitting the car.

You can cut it off but only as far back as the cross bar of the chassis. It needs to remain welded to that cross tube as it supports the diff.

Check that the horn switch can handle the high load of a horn without a relay.

what engine is fitted? is it carb or EFI as the fuel pump needs to be high pressure if efi plus a swirl pot and a 2nd low pressure pump. if its fitted with a carb the mechanical pump fitted to the engine block works just fine (& simpler). most electric pumps work best fitted near the tank as they push better than suck.

Could a fuel pipe have dried out, cracked and started leaking? If its EFI running at high pressure it may only be leaking when you are driving and not noticable when its parked. Also check the injector O rings.

You may find that the LED charge light wont go out when the engine starts. An LED doesnt put enough load to "excite"  the alternator circuit.

My heath robinson fix was to insert a small socket and bulb in the circuit but hidden under the dash.

Apologies in advance to any real leccies out there, who are either laughing  their socks off, or grinding their teeth.

https://www.speeding.co.uk/7-inch-pair-sealed-beam-headlights-halogen-conversion-848-p.asp

Well done....Just in time for the better weather

Ian is right. I bought the land rover ones for £7.50 each a few years back. they work perfectly, just need the mount modifying as they have a central bolt top and bottom.

You have to put a curve in the support to match the curve of the bonnet. Try straightening the old ones to get a better idea of whether the new ones are actually different.

To eliminate or identify  a fuel problem, put a squirt of fuel into each carb mouth. If the spark is all ok it will start, but be a bit lumpy for a short while, like on full choke, then clear before stopping. If it wont start then the problem is ignition.......somewhere. Its a long process of elimination, just one thing at a time.

Its hard to see from your photo, have you checked the plug leads are connected correctly?? They look like perhaps 2& 3 are swapped?

I just couldn't remember.....

LOL been there..!!!

I dont know what section  the IVA demands, but if as you say it has to be 19mm radius, doesnt  it need to be 38mm diameter?

I have a Vauxhall redtop . They are  notorious for sump leaks. I have tried many solutions, but I have reverted to

using the standard cork gasket and Wynns black gasket sealer from Euro car parts, that has been 100% successful

every time I have rebuilt the engine.

https://www.eurocarparts.com/search/wynns black gasket

Wot Bob said....

There are no new problems.....

https://nw.rhocar.org/clutch pawls.htm

Post removed.

Red quadrant on ebay Claimed to be 55mm, but photo shows different

I'd suggest looking at increasing the throw on the cable before pulling the engine.

Its a common problem even with the pinto, but especially (for some reason) with the redtop.

I had to try a number of quadrants and ended up with (I think) one from a Granada. Dont go by the colour, but by the diameter size, as aftermarket ones come in all colours. The quadrant itself is always the same size, but the groove comes in varying depths. You need one where the cable lies level with the top of it. MIne needs lifting a bit, ive fixed 2 cable ties, one on top of the other, into the groove before fitting the cable. Its all dismantled at the moment in the picture.

Do a search on this  site, the resourceful guys on here have come up with a number of solutions. 

If you do need a clutch, go direct to Helix for advice, they really know their stuff. 

Glue coarse wet and dry on a cloth backing on it.

That's a shame.....someone made a much more professional job of the bracket than RH recommends....LOL