Robbie 2B

Help!!! I want to reduce the throw of the gear leveron a 2B but want to seal the opening and not put spacers in, AKA Dave Andrews. I have seen a link to a site selling quick shift levers, somewhere in Kent if my memory is not playing up, for £11.00 or something around that amount. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I am now on the second set of torix headed screws holding the gear lever in, does anyone else have the problem with the screws coming loose or is the box on the wayout? :angry: Many thanks Robbie :boohoo:

Yep, letter went off a couple of weeks ago. seems to be a nomal occurance. It would appear that the people "working" for the DVLA could walk straight into a job "helping" to running the railways. :angry: Robbie 2B

I got mine from the Lolocost van at the Kent show, even got an additional half set for the putting the wind deflectors on the same side screen fixings. Robbie 2B

I second that. Good luck and looking fourward to meeting you both. I had my SVA at gillingham a few months back and found the testers to be a great help and honest. Robbie

The wife mainly. :angry: :boohoo: Sorry Ian i do try

Just to make this post relevent again. I will try and make it in the hood vif possible (weather PERMITING) And i know that there is two guys who live near to me taking there SVA next week so we will hope to see them there. Good luck!! Robbie

Thanks for all your helpfull and not so helpfull replies - I take it that a the 'smell joke' has spilt over from another post. Phase two I fully charged the battery - 12.6 volts when connected in the car With the engine running at a fast idle - 11.5 volts (yes the plug was in the back of the alternator) As I have not done anything since it was running perfectly it would appear to be the alternator. Is there a way to check the alternator? My available tools are limited to; mutimeter, terminal screwdrivers and a Richard Stewart torque wrench. Heres hoping Robbie

Bill When I first got the thing running in October last year it was debatable if a MOT was required or not - so 'just in case' a MOT was obtained. (The hand brake only worked on one side but the garage still let me have the certificate as there was considered still sufficient braking when the weight of the car was used in the equation) I went for the SVA in April this year and was told that the MOT was not required for the first three years - AKA a new tin top. As I had the cert' with me the SVA tester took a copy of it. Personnal, I would still go for a MOT as it gives you some confidence that an independant "qualified" person has checked the car over. Hope this clarifies the points made Robbie

Steve An MOT certificate is no longer required all you need for registering and taxing is: MAC Completed V55/5 Completed V627/1 Insurance cover note (you don't normally get a policy with out a reg' number) V5 from the donor vehicle (should be under SORN) Receipts for major items V842 - Completed by the garage who did the MOT £38 and their satisfactory inspection However, I also got my 2B MOTed prior to the test, it gave me chance to get the hand brake working on two wheels. When I got it SVAed at Gillingam the tester did state that it was a good idea and took a copy of the MOT cert'. Yes I fully agree with Ian the guys their are helpfull and let you rectify faults and even tell you what needs doing and how it should be done so they can actually pass it. Yes, it did pass first time. Good luck Robbie

The wife took the 2B out on Saturday to show it off with her mate. Five minutes later I got a phone call saying that it had justed died. :boohoo: Super hero arrived with son to push start it as no juice in the battery to turn it over. Got it home sounding very sick (poss on only two cyinders) at the end. After charging the battery it started and run OK. The same thing happen, but with son driving, again lost all the charge in the battery after a couple of miles. Push started but it completely died before we got home and resorted to towing it. :angry: Charging light goes off on starting the engine, running with the standard 2 litre Seirra set up with ECU and single Webber carb. Anybody got any ideas?? Robbie

"Testing the car with out a screen" A neat little trick is to fit the demisting vents onto the bonet and then just turn them around. Passes SVA! Robbie

Ha Ha I have got the wider wings Robbie

Second question; Yes the tubes are the same size, you have to cut massif slits along the side of the multi bend tube then 'bash' it into the braket (use grease). Then in the kit you should have been given a larger pice of tube which you cut into 4 even pieces and they side over the joint and two rivits are a gooden! Pic should make more sense than my english.

This is a pic i have saved, hope it helps. Or i will take another tomorrow. Good luck! Robbie

Well done ian. You are now over the hill as it were! Next thing you know you'll be booking your SVA.

Welcome and have fun! A piece of advice, if possible go for the 2L its a lot more power and doesn't cost much. Most people will end up changing to a 2L. ( no offence to anyone who has a 1.6 pinto ) Robbie

I would go for the RH too win over all. Any way so what do i win? P.s. is does deppend on how you drive the cars? :gdit: or or Robbie

Congrats Richard!!!! Just in time for the summer enjoy driving. Robbie

Can any one help? I have an annoying problem which occurs when you floor it in first gear, the engine just gives up the gost (no acceleration just poping from the exhst) but when you ease off then it goes, very embarrassing when coming out of the pub. It also tends to happen when you floor it around corners ( :gdit: so my son says? :gdit: ) I have a 2 lit 2B with the standard pinto carb' and ECU. I have checked for blocked nozzles, enrichment, etc all seams OK and I think it may actually be fuel starvation. The fault appears to be more prevalent when making a swift get away from a side road (pub car park), thus exerting a cornering force as well as the acceleration force, than when dragging away from traffic lights. Can anyone confirm this hypotheses or propose a solution. I am debating whether altering the height of petrol in the float chamber will have an effect. Robbie :boohoo:

another just for the hell of it

Best thing i've heard/read all day thanks. lol Robbie

close up image

Ok no problem!!! From what i know (being robbies son) is that i made up 4 angle brakets out of stainless that (rivited) attached to the chassie tubes on top and bottem (as you can just see on second image) and screwed in to wooden pannel. Hope these pictures help And if my dad changed anything he'll post later. Pannel just in place

Hope that this helps Robbie

Paul I have the same problem but only when you floor it in first gear, very embarrassing when coming out of the pub. :angry: I have a 2 lit 2B with the standard pinto carb' and ECU. I have checked for blocked nozzles, enrichment, etc all seams OK and I think it may actually be fuel starvation. The fault appears to be more prevalent when making a swift get away from a side road (pub car park), thus exerting a cornering force as well as the acceleration force, than when dragging away from traffic lights. Can anyone confirm this hypotheses or propose a solution. I am debating whether altering the height of petrol in the float chamber will have an effect. Robbie