richardm6994

Hi, Has anyone got an exmo bonnet for sale? Or know where I can buy one from? Or know if any other RH's bonnet fits? Cheers

A cylinder head removal is quick and easy.....granted.....but when your MLS head gasket has cost over £100 and took 7 weeks to be delivered (from cometic USA via burton power due to 94.5mm bore and custom thickness), i think the above advice using string etc is extremely useful........and I for one will be remembering it!

awsome dude......glad its working!

That is exactly what I did with mine!!!

Directly opposite Derby County Stadium (and also what used to be egg) on Pride Park. The company is called Frenger

How wide does it need to be? I've got one at home which does up to 500mm (from memory). I can also do up to 2m wide sheets at work on our cnc folder (comes in handy when building kit cars!) pm me if this is of any interest.

Nice one shaft! I think the tail lights onto your rear arches look mint btw! We should see if people are interested and possibly arrange a weekend meeting at the a6 bacon van and then have a blast through matlock etc...

hi matey....thanks for the comments and yeah def meet up for a run out, I'll prob not keep up with the v8 beast tho!!! probably gonna tax the car at end of march / begining april (march pay day!)

I used poly bushes on the TCA after doing the tie bar conversion. The outer bushes (arb) came from Burton power.....about £40 for the pair though.....ouch!!

Hi Everyone, Had a great weekend as I've fired-up my engine for the first time since I started my "winter tinkering" back in october. Jobs done this winter; 1) Megajolt installed; This was easier than I thought it would be.....except by VR senor wires were backwards and it would start until this problem had been found (I blame triggerwheels as there wiring diagram was wrong). 2) Anti rollbar removed and tie bars fitted (covered this under seperate topic) 3) New headlights fitted 4) Engine head and block re machined. Cometic head gasket fitted with new ARP head studs 5) Engine bay cleaned and re-painted (what a horrible job!!!) 6) The entire car has been re-wired from scratch 7) Front suspension struts reinforced (the exmo weakness!) All that is left to do now if fit the seats back in, touch-up some paintwork, give her a clean and tax!! I'm going to rolling road her at some point soon (never been rolling roaded before so it should be an experience!). I'm really looking forward to driving her with the megajolt and tiebars!! Should hopefully see a big difference!

Hi Brian, The leather dash was really easy. Once I'd cut the wood to the desired shape / size, I sprayed it with contact adhesive and stuck some 4mm thick foam onto it. Once the glue was dry, I the trimmed the foam to the wood shape and then stretched the leather over and stapled it in place on the rear of the wood. The warning lights I've got are; indicator left indicator right alt warning fuel warning hand brake head lights high beam The small gauges are volts oil pressure fuel water temp clock The buttons are electric rad fan over ride switch (by passes the temp switch) push button horn fog lights dummy switch (for if i ever needed an other switch) I honestly don't know about the MOT thingy, but I'm sure someone here can answer that. Mine have always worked so it's never been a problem hth

HTH

Hi Brian, I've done a similar thing with my exmo, except I made a leather dash (onto MDF) instead of carbon plastic (the carbon plastic will look ace!). I've got a cluster of 5 gauges in the centre of the dash, and two larger gauges either side of the steering wheel, along with 6 warning lights and a letter-box hole which was used to house a sterio in front of the passenger. Basically I cut away the metal dash wherever it was needed and I've never had any problems. I would suggest to cut what is needed to be removed (don't just cut it all away for the sake of it) and never cut right up to the bodywork, leave at least a 50mm metal dash boarder. Finally, if you end up cutting out any square shaped holes, you must radius the corners of the holes (at least 5mm radius) to prevent any fatigue crack from starting. I would estimate that I cut about 20% (area) out of my metal dash. Directly behind your metal dash (approx 6 inch away), there should be a round metal strengthening bar bolted across the width of the car......(there should also be another one behind the seats) I'd imagine that it is these bars which forms most of the rigidity around the dash area.

itching for weeks.....tell me about it....probably the worst kit-car build job ever!!!! it's 50mm wide, which I've overlapped as I wrapped so that overall it is 2 layers thick. I'm thinking that the paint should be okay because I can just about touch the manifold wrap after a good run ....so probably no where near 450 degrees-C

Anyone know......or even have an estimate what the max temperature would be of the exposed surfaces of my exhaust wrap around the manifold? Reason for asking....I've got some heat resistance paint (up to 450 degrees C) and I wanted to paint the exhaust wrap to seal in all of the fibres etc.....

Between 8-10 degrees static advance for a standard pinto, however I've heard people saying that they end up closer to 10 degrees than 8 degrees on a stadard pinto cam. When you change the cam duration, this then alters the static advance..... hth

I can machine both the block and weber side to give a compound angle, but the angles all depends on how thick the flanges are, thus how much material I can machine off to produce the angle.

Hi, I had the same problem.....ended up using one of these; http://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by-category/fuel-system/inlet-manifolds/im4272.html except mine is for 48's instead of 40's....they come up quite often on ebay for around £50. If thats not of any interest......if you're around the derby area...and also there is enough material on your inlet manifold....I can machine the manifold flange at an angle so that when it bolts to the engine, it's pointing upwards. I've done this before on a couple of Robin hoods pretty sucessfully! (it all depends what angle you need and what material you've got to play with on the manifold for machining)

I thought this might be of interest to people; I went through a load of old documents and discovered that over the years, my cylinder head has been taken off 8 times in total. Each time I ended up reusing the same ARP head studs which I originally purchased when I built the engine.. back in 2001.....(each time the studs have been torqued to 95ft/lbs). Anyway, I decided it was about time for a new ARP head stud kit during this winter's latest cylinder head work.....and they arrived a few weeks ago. I measured the new studs against the old studs and the biggest "streched" old stud was only +5 thou.... I don't know what the max stretch would be before the stud breaks, but 5 thou is impressive considering how old they are and how many times they've been torqued-up!

hi mick, hope you're keepin well. I used poly bushes on the TCA after doing the tie bar conversion. The outer bushes (arb) came from from Burton power.....about £40 for the pair though.....ouch!! Obviously I don't know how good they are yet because I'm still on with the winter tinkering.....megajolt conversion finished today!!!!

Lol.......my bad!

All the best with the heart recovery matey....... I could be wrong here....but I didn't think sierra indicator stalks had the horn on the end......mine doesn't anyway (but it could be different mk numbers etc....). ebay number 380410953062 illustrates an escort stalk.......very similar but has the horn on the end....is this what you are looking for? Obviously £75 is ridiculous but it might help with your search around breakers? if all else fails......stick the cheap sierra stalk on without the horn and fit a push button on your dash for the horn (that's exactly what I've done)

Hi Brian, Not quite.......... B/W to 12v ignition earth spade to good earth green to -ve on coil Bulb connector to 12v side light source

Hi Brian, I've never used smith gauges, mine are all ETB, however the only thing I can think of as to why you will have 2 green wires going to a single spade connector is that your taco may have come from a distributor-less set up, such as a zetec engine (more commonly known as EDIS). The attached picture shows how the 2 signal cables are wired up to the taco. If your not using the taco on an EDIS set up, then you'll only need 1 feed to the taco from your coil (which I would guess is you spade connector with green cables), as well as the +ve (your black and white bullet) and -ve supply (in addition to your bulb +ve supply). You'll probably get better answers once we've seen photos. hth

she who must be obeyed