brumster

Lots of info on here. This post in my build thread might help...

If you don't need the flexibility, NHF (well, Racing Lines, which are a subcompany out of the same unit) will do braided teflon lines as well as R9 rubber hose. I use it on the competition car. BFG-copy fittings. The other source I used to use was Think Auto for genuine BFG stuff. Not sure braided line front to back is really justified on a road car but, hey, whatever people want to use

Nuneaton hose & fitting can also supply genuine (I pressed them on the exact same matter when I bought it!) http://www.nhfsupplies.co.uk/

Unlikely, unfortunately. If it went through the IVA with a cat, then the emissions requirements will be relatively stringent and it would be impossible to get it through them without one fitted. Ultimately it depends what the requirements are on the V5...

Bloody hell, you don't mess around do you !! Nice one, irrespective of the issue you had, they are great little bits of kit for what they do so it's a nice addition to have... glad the suggestion worked

Could do - sticky valve? Mind you the pinto is a fairly simply beast in terms of valvetrain isn't it, so there's no hydraulic followers to blame

I drilled and tapped the alloy filter housing on the K series; there's a part of the casting where it was obviously left to be machined/tapped out for some sort of fitting. It was blanked off on mine (unmachined) so I just took a gamble and opened it out and yes, it's straight into the gallery line (basically).

The electric one

Aye, it does what it says on the tin really. I have one on the Zero, partly because the sump capacity is reduced but also because I don't fancy spinning a bearing on an expensive engine It's peace of mind really. I really rate them, and I know an engine builder who did also. Particularly if you've got an engine with known problems with oil surge. If you're looking to get back some capacity lost, it's a roundabout way of doing it, and arguably easier than hacking about with custom sumps.

Another roundabout option : look up "Accusump" or "oil accumulator"

Can't fault the thinking !

Yes, you are correct, if you're interested only in how much oil you can put in before hitting the bottom of the crank/windage tray then the mark is fine, although you'll probably need to cut a bit off the end of the dipstick so that it goes in all the way and doesn't hit the sump itself. As you've already worked out, it doesn't help in terms of oil capacity. Which I thought was the prime concern here. Initially the thought was it wasn't draining down quick enough (which might still be the case) but now are we saying you might not have enough oil in there? A quick google suggests just under 4L for a Pinto!?

Is the dipstick provided with the shortened sump? So the max mark is revised on the basis the sump is shallower? Because, forgive me for stating the obvious, but if it's the original dipstick then it will be completely wrong (will read too little - the max mark should be higher up the stick than it was originally).

Just a minor point I learnt a while ago - high pressure pumps don't solve any issue around lack of oil supply to the pickup. Some people see low oil pressure or lack of oil pressure and think fitting one will magically resolve their problems but of course, it won't. It does sound to me like lack of supply at the pickup - such as the draining problems suggested - or else all the pressurised oil is bleeding off early... I'm not up on Pintos I'm afraid; incorrectly fitted pump/spray bars/gasket/thrust washer/cap/bolt/etc :-S ?! But given what you've said about, everything does seem to point to lack of adequate drainage from the head. As to why it's only started doing it now, well that's a conundrum; maybe the new oil pump has exaccerbated the problem because now it can fill the head quicker?

Honestly? Just rip it all out and start again. Trying to "meld" two looms together is more hassle than it's worth (yes, I've done it!) and in the long run you'll have a neater solution if you just replace the whole lot - it will be consistent (what I mean is, no second guessing in the future "where does this go" or "what does that do" or "why on earth did I wire this that way" !!). Do it right and do it once, rather than trying to save time/money/effort in the short term for more hassle and cost long-term. Well, that's my opinion anyway

As above - if you're savvy (or willing to put large amounts of effort in to learn) then making your own loom for these cars is not difficult. I just made mine from scratch, spent time designing it and it pretty much worked first time bar some minor tweaks to a few final circuits. People want convenience these days, and boy do companies charge for it. Premier Looms are as good a solution as anywhere; I think I've seen mixed results on here and through word of mouth but ultimately, if you don't know the right end of a diode from the wrong one and "blowing a fuse" is what your missus does when she finds engine parts in the dishwasher - best go that route

I suspect they log the raw values, would make sense in terms of diagnosing issues like this, but you're right there's various acceleration values that would dampen the calculated injector timing and so forth so I doubt it's too much of an issue. But some of those readings do look a bit noisier than other logs I've got from mine and other cars. Is your TPS sensor cabling shielded like your crank sensor? outer shield, earthed at ECU end only? That blip - it properly leaned out then didn't it! In fact there's a lot of points where it goes very lean - steady throttle seems fine (there's not many points on there though where it's like that) but looks like the idle fueling needs some fettling. Might be idle stabilisation function, or something more physical.

Hmmm, possibly flex/movement/vibration over the years has introduced some fatigue to it? Nerdy answer is - get a 'scope on it and I could tell you but, yeah, redo the log trace as suggested and I suspect that will soon tell you. Also just watching the "live adjustments" screen while it's running, and while you're revving it/etc - would be easy to spot loss of crank signal as it would freak out with RPM reading. Try the sensor now you've ordered one but don't rule out the cable is all I mean, just in case it doesn't fix the issue

Tough one! The touching of the inlet hose - are we saying you're literaly touching it with a finger, no significant pressure, just touching the hose causes it to stall? That sounds more electrical to me; you're adding a ground, or introducing interference into maybe the injectors but... then that doesn't explain why cracking the fuel rail fixes the problem. Cracking the fuel rail suggest, other than the excellent suggestion from LB above, that maybe some large flake of crud is settling in the rail/injector basket filters and when the throttle is opened it's get drawn into and blocking the injector filters. While pressure is in the system that's getting held in place but cracking the rail is letting the debris pull away from the injector basket and clear it up? Might be worth pulling the rail and injectors off, flushing out, giving them a gentle upside-down tap to see if any *bleep* comes out of them. But then, this contradicts the "touching the hose" issue! The two don't make any sense to me :-S !! Wow, interesting one...

Crank sensor maybe... I'll put money on the cable/plug/connector/shielding rather than the sensor itself ;). Shielding connected at both ends - common mistake

Well, keeping it simple, the job of the damper is to stop the car bouncing around on it's springs. Imagine a trampoline - without any damper, the spring in the suspension would just bounce up and down when you compress it (say, sitting on a corner of the car and then suddenly jumping off). So the job of dampers, shock absorbers, whatever you want to call them, is to control that springyness. More damping (ie. 'harder') means more resistance against the spring - the damper will restrict how quickly the spring can compress or extend. Less damping (ie. 'softer') means the opposite, obviously, so the car will feel softer and 'bouncier'. There are more complexities to it of course - the damping effect happens both on compressing the spring ("compression damping") and as the spring extends after being compressed ("rebound damping"). You gaz dampers will probably combine the adjustment so you adjust them both at the same time - you can't do them independently. More advanced dampers allow you to alter compression and rebound separately (2-way dampers) or there are even 3-ways that allow you to adjust compression separately based on low and high speed movement! Basically, adjust to how you want it. Insufficient damping and the car will feel floaty and on large bumps or lots of repeated bumps you might run out of travel and hit bump stops, because the damper isn't controlling (reducing) that travel sufficiently, but it will be more comfortable of course. Too much damping and the car will just ride stiff, you won't make use of all your travel and you won't have a compliant ride, this can adjust the handling of the car to the negative if it's too stiff (under/oversteer depending on which end, lack of compliance can have you pinging all over the road when you hit bumps, undulations, etc). As most say, start in the middle and tweak bit by bit in one direction, testing the car over a consistent bit of road that you know very well. When you're happy with it, you're happy with it simple as that

Do you not get any clicks on GAZs? I would say convention would have "-" as less damping, and "+" as more damping. Or (and I hate the terms myself) "soft" versus "hard". Ultimately, ask GAZ (I've never used them).

The log looks.... weird to me... doesn't make sense... can I just check, in that log, at no point does the engine start right? That's 11 minutes of you trying to start it? Why does the engine speed slowly creep up over time from 50rpm to 125rpm?! Why is the coolant temperature reading up in the 250+ degrees centigrade ? I don't think it's loaded into my software correctly somehow.... !! edit: oh wait, I think I know what's going on here. The software ONLY logs the 8 fields YOU decided to record. I was thinking it logged everything, but only displayed the 8 chosen in the software at any one time. I suspect I'm changing fields expecting to see engine RPM instead of coolant temperature, and the software is letting me change the drop-down field, but isn't then actually showing me that - it's showing me coolant temperature still, but represented as engine speed. I think you'll need to re-do the log. Next time, log : Engine speed Ign Adv Inj Duration Throttle Pos Coolant Temp AFR/Lambda Battery TPS Cheers, Dan

Do you think it's not getting enough fuel to start? Does tickling the throttle help it start? If so, it might need the initial injector prime and/or cranking enrichment increasing. It's hard to say without seeing the entire map to be honest... can you send your .map file to me?

Oh nice, yes, they look like they stay "out" (ie. wide)... I do like that classic look. Graham, just check coverage as per the IVA manual, section 37