brumster

Is this some sort of automotive LED strip that you *know* is designed to take 12v in? Do you have a link to the specs, for example?

Wiring up backwards wouldn't blow fuse, you'd just get nothing.

All I can think is one or more of the LEDs has blown, maybe because they were designed for a lower voltage, and have now melted in a fused (short) state, so every time you're turning them on they're just shorting out and blowing the fuse.

The ICO will have far bigger things on their plate. This is unlikely to result in any action. They weigh up a lot of factors in the breach, including the number of impacted subjects, the type of data released and the potential impact (damages/losses) as a result of it. In this case, the impact is incredibly minor. In my humble (and expert) opinion, you could by all means report it but I suspect the ICO will send you a template response back and then, when they finally get around to investigating it, tell us to stop being silly buggers and wasting their time...

What an odd looking "paddle" friction plate :-o

The only saving grace is that at least I'm only sticking in 20-22 litres rather than 60 !

Just a +1 here to re-enforce you're not the only one tank uses a vented filler neck so quite generous, I think the only way I'd get it any better would be to fit a rather massive breather pipe to the opposite side of the tank!

Gearbox sold; post can be deleted

Indicision on the female side of the camp means that I'm almost certainly coming, but don't know if it's 2 of us, or 3+dog at this point in time

<hand up>

Helix direct are useless, as you have discovered. Go through a knowledgeable dealer like Anthony, or Mardi Gras motorsport.... but, yeah... you're sorted now, so makes no odds

Someone on here recently tried the foam (Brumster?) and it didn't work.

 

Best solution is an external swirl pot and HP pump, like the current Zero uses.

Yep, exactly, foam cubes made no difference for me.

Matt does have a point though, implying to a new visitor that fitting a land rover pump is a "cheap fix" at £35 might be hiding a lot of detail - work to modify the tank or have an adapter plate fabricated, and so forth... it depends on the car/tank of course. I'm not savvy with 2B petrol tanks.

It's in the Helix catalogue... wait one...

<rummage down back of sofa....>

Hmmm ok their website link is dead but here's one from 2014, I doubt it's changed that much... from what I can gather, the Focus 1.8 clutch is a 220mm?

http://coordsport.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Helix%20Racing%20Clutch%20Programme%20Catalogue%202014.pdf

Cool, ok, so standard clutch then. So it looks to me like Helix do 2 uprated organic clutches in 220mm, one rated to 273ft.lb and one to 365... I suspect the former will suffice

No need for ceremetallc paddles, and keeps it relatively comfortable and driveable for the road, and you won't be ripping your flywheel to shreds in a few thousand miles... mind you, all depends how you drive and treat it of course

edit: One thing I will suggest - ring Anthony at Techcraft Motorsport (01926 403721), tell him I sent you his way, and explain your engine and the clutch, and he'll be able to advise you what's more cost effective, be it an AP or a Helix. I was going Helix on the Zero but he managed to get a better price on an AP clutch in the end... he knows his onions, I promise you.

So you want to go 4 paddle over a normal full-face clutch for serious motorsport use. They manage heat better but they don't wear anywhere near as well, and over time they take their toll on your flywheel. I'm not here to tell you why you want one, most people here make their mind up themselves, so I'll just tell it like it is. If Helix can't make you a conventional uprated clutch and cover plate for your engine, then you will indeed need to look into something more motorsport-oriented, but if you've got issues with torque overpowering your pressure plate, then there's nothing for it but a more heavily sprung cover - and with that comes the need for big thighs (or a hydraulic clutch of course)!

Sprung or solid centre? Well, solid will give you a more direct drive and if you like slipping the clutch to get the revs up on the exit of chicanes and so forth, then I'd recommend it, it's what I run in the rally car... but for a road car, I would say no, it 'aint for you. They are snatchy . A sprung centre will take the stress off the cover plate, particularly if it's a conventional sprung type rather than a multi-plate style... which I presume you are avoiding.

Ultimately, why do you want a new clutch, is the current one slipping under full torque? What clutch is in it right now - size, type, material, spring strength?

If you've got known torque values then Helix can advise you of exactly the clutch you need

Solid centre you want to avoid, but you can still get sprung 4-paddles....

I would think since a narrowband is so limited in what it can tell the ECU, the ECU has to make pretty wild jumps either side of stoichiometric to "test the water" and figure out how much it needs to adjust by... it's a bit of a guessing game for the ECU, I believe, with narrowbands (fine for steady-state basic emmissions adjustment though)...

Most of the time, if you've had it tuned, the lambda will only adjust fuelling 1 or 2% off the base map anyway - I suspect the amount of fuel that's potentially saving is not worth fussing about.

I like to run one just so I know the state of my engine, to be honest. I use it to tune, but that's done now... but I see no reason to take it out. It's not adjusting fueling outside of 1%, but I can log to a laptop if I'm ever worried about it and take a look at how the engine is running (particularly if running a cat). A comfort thing really, but once you're mapped, it's probably not serving much purpose... I know what you mean, Longboarder.

Agreed, after reading that, if that's the legal position, I wouldn't be bothering (well, I wouldn't be bothering with a Lotus 7 and towing anyway, but, you know what I mean )....

Interesting challenge. Given the tank position, assuming you didn't want to interfere or change the tank at all, I think you're stuck with a rather low hitch height if you're picking up off the lower section of the chassis... I wonder if it would be too low? Obviously you could rise it up on the outside of the car, up at the back, but I wonder what strength/leverage stress this would put on the rest of the structure. I guess ultimately if you use thick enough steel, anything should be possible, but given the Zero rear end in the early days was known to fracture in places before GBS added webbing/strengthening, I'd be cautious about how much "safety margin" is in it, to be honest...!

Yes, I would suspect when they pull the car details up on the MOT database, the guidance will be shown on there...

The way it's modified, the easiest way is to mount it "sitting on top" of the battery tray, dropping down through the apertures that the monocoque car had for the pedals. If I recall, the back butts up against the original servo mounting plate. The pedals then hang down and, well, the rest is fairly obvious I guess. So the last picture would be as if you was looking from the right hand side of the car.

Throttle pedal mechanism can just be bolted onto the right hand side of it.

The 3D printed enclosures speak a bit "Arduino hacker" to me. I think all of these widband controllers are a bit of a muchness really. They all do very little for the money, I keep thinking I should make an open source one myself! But, time, as always...

Use a PLX myself. No issues. Had an Innovate LC-1 before (couple, in fact), not very reliable. LC-2 is probably better but I've decided to steer clear of them now.

Just a quick chase-up/bump on this. The gearbox is out and available, or otherwise will soon be going on eBay...

Got the old pedal box from the Exmo sitting here, surplus to requirements.

It's the underslung type, adjustable bias bar for the brakes, master cylinders included (0.625/0.7) and clutch pedal.

It has been modified as follows :

- Additional bracing (because, as it comes from OBP, it was bloody awful)

- Clutch return spring

- Mounting legs to sit on top of a monocoque bulkhead/scuttle (Exmo, and probably others)

- Tagged a brake light switch onto it

- Pedals bent to suit Robin Hood footwell

Takes the standard Sierra throttle pedal bolted onto the right hand side (I have it if you need it)

Originally fitted to the Exmo in order to ditch the servo and free up engine room for the engine conversion. Worked great with Sierra front disks and rear drums.

Open to sensible offers, I have to put a price so say £70 but try me....

Type 9 spline to Sierra diff flange fitting

875mm from tip to flange

Very little mileage, well under 1000 miles, good as new

As best as I can recall, this was the standard shaft we received for the Exmo but probably suits other models just as equally.

Open to sensible offers really... £25 plus the shipping, or collect?

I used a piece of flat 2mm steel welded, in a U shape, across the chassis tubes in the tunnel, that reached down and hovered above the propshaft/diff flange. Works OK for me up to about 90-100 then it gets a bit