brumster

Atherstone!? You're about 2 miles away from me

I didn't get a manual, you got a VHS video tape with basic instructions. I can try and dig it out for you, hopefully I've kept it somewhere I'm sure. Alternatively come to the area meet and you can take a look over my Exmo if you want.

Cheers,

Dan

One word of caution on the vid; what he doesn't talk about is effective ducting of the air into that angled radiator. By his rationale, tilting the rad 90 degrees would make for all the surface area for cooling but with minimal drag because the rad is horizontal! But of course, that's daft, because the air coming in wouldn't be directed onto the square face of the rad. I pretty sure some analysis would show that as you tilt the radiator from the vertical, at some point the cooling efficiency seriously drops off IF you're not forcing air to go through it. So by that I mean, if you've got gaps above and around your rad, the air will flow OVER the surface of the angled rad and over the top of rad, rather than through it.

The ducting idea goes for all rads really, even vertical ones, but just be aware tilting one in your nosecone but leaving ma-hoo-sive gaps around the side won't do it any favours. Probably stating the obvious, but you never know ....

Personally I would move to a smaller, but decent, 12" fan - something from Pacet, Kenlow or Spal should be more than capable of cooling your ali motor. I use Spal on my competition car and now on the Hood, after trying out a £20 ebay special (I figured there was only one way to find out if they were as crap as I suspected; I was correct ). They don't half shift some air, I doubt the difference between 12 and 14 is all that great....

http://www.spalautomotive.co.uk/acatalog/AXIAL_COOLING_FANS.html

12" - 1450, 1710, 2190 or 2860 m^3/hr

14" - 1620 m^3/hr

So 12" available that shifts more than the 14" anyway!

That was quick and simple will drop you a PM

Is this of any use to anyone?

Single-DIN car stereo, motorised flip-front LCD, graphical display, CD player/radio but can also play MP3s off data discs too. Has an aux in to play off an external source (iPod lead included). Infra-red remote control included. Pre-outs for amps (including subwoofer, not that you'd fit one in a 'Hood I imagine!). Comes with mounting cage, plastic surround trim, leads and aforementioned iPod aux lead. Has just had £10 spent on it to fix the flexible ribbon cable to the display, so it's in excellent condition and not likely to wear for another 10 years

£25 (plus postage if needed)

Someone else's

I would think that unlikely, IF it's plumbed in properly, because remember the injectors won't empty the swirl pot anywhere near that quickly - most of the fuel delivered to the fuel rail is returned back from the pressure regulator. But could be an issue with the feed to the swirl pot, absolutely, or maybe the lift pump is just fubar'd? Blockage, faulty pressure regulator, etc.

Roy, with a bit of fiddling I can plumb in a pressure gauge into your fuel rail and we can verify what's going on. Could be lots of things causing it really - assuming everything is plumbed in correct and working properly it shouldn't really be an issue, so clearly something is off somewhere.

This is a pet gripe of mine, a lot of people work on wonderful ways of getting air into the engine bay but don't think about where it's going to go to get out I guess it's possible. Greatly depends on where your pump and tank are, where the pipes run, etc etc.

If you're in no rush it's often easier to just sort out in person than discuss over t'interweb I'm only over in Coleshill so not far, or come to one of the club nights at Stonebridge and get the full weight of the area members behind the problem

I'm going, but with another motor club so not in the 'Hood.

If it's all plumbed in correctly then this is highly unlikely. The swirl pot is constantly fed fresh fuel from the tank which will help to keep it cool, and the loop from the fuel rail will return into that in the swirl pot so it's unlikely that fuel in the fuel rail would remain there long enough to get that hot. You're not far away; happy to take a look if you want (after hols of course ).

Just FYI if you're looking for something to do this weekend, there is a car show in Beacon Park in Lichfield - called "Cars in the Park" it runs Saturday and Sunday and is usually q nice affair, with a good spread of local motor clubs. It's not focused on one particular marque, era or type so you get moderns, classics, etc. plus local dealers, food stalls, autojumbles, activities for the kids, yada yada yada.

All the details here :-

http://www.carsinthepark.com/

Just thought I'd let you know!

They are Ford P100 inserts so I think you would be hard pushed to find off-the-shelf adjustable versions out there; I don't imagine many people 'tuned' the Ford pickups much

Your best bet if you really want adjustment, given your location, is to maybe approach someone like AST or Reiger and have some one-offs made to your dimensions/spec... but make sure you're sitting down when you get the price/bill

I'll be there, but sans Hood - the clutch cable snapped on the way back from Newark !! At least that guarantees it'll be sunny and dry for you now, if my luck is typical

Correct, although most these days are self-exciting I think? Self-exciting.... fnaar fnaar....

That sounds a bit hot to me!? Is it close to an exhaust fanimold or anything?

You could run the engine with the belt off for a while (if the battery is good it shouldn't be a problem) and see if the heat is still soaked from the engine; if it's not the same sort of temperature then at least you know it's not transferring from the block. Mind you you're aluminium now aren't you, which will transfer heat out pretty well

Nice one, sounds lovely

Did anyone snap a pic or, even better, some video of the flyby? The little'un was well impressed and the missus wanted to see it, but they were on my only recording device at the time, having a natter.

"Take a picture, take a picture" said the missus.

"I would if you weren't on the phone!"

24 psi cold all round but I'm on 13" wheels too, so much more generous profile than the modern Zero - and the car is no doubt heavier being an Exmo. Works for me but I hear most people tend to run lower.

Nice to put some faces to names/handles; was a good weekend (we didn't arrive until Saturday early evening). +1 on the memorial flight fly-by... cracking stuff, and just as we were leaving too.

Car ran a dream all weekend then 2 miles from home, the throttle linkage popped off. Fixed, and on our way, 1 mile later the bloody clutch cable end snaps off! Fecking thing - thankfully no stops needed so we made it home all the same. I thought the weekend was going far too smoothly until then that'll learn me

Can you explain what the ignition live is for? I don't have this on my loom and I have a dd2 lite dash that has the alternator light built in which is operated by voltage drop on the feed. Do I need to connect a wire to the ignition live?

I think it's normally a reference voltage - it's not essential.

Quick google : http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator-overview.shtml goes into the detail!

Yep, with good reason too - when the engine isn't running, the 12v from the ignition switch earths through the bulb and the alternator, lighting the lamp.

When the engine is running and the alternator is all good then the potential difference between the battery voltage at the one side of the lamp and the voltage regulators in the alternator on the other side of the lamp equal out - and with no potential difference, no current flows, and the bulb goes out.

The interesting bit is when the alternator output differs from the battery output - typically because the alternator isn't spinning at the correct speed or the voltage regulators are stuffed. Either way, the voltage on the alternator will differ slightly from the battery voltage you'll receive on the ignition live - and that difference in voltage will make the warning lamp glow (the brighter it glows the bigger the voltage difference).

This is one reason why a bulb is needed and not an LED - current needs to be able to flow in either direction!

I don't think what I'm thinking of was specifically Wunderseal but it sounds like the same sort of thing. It was black rather than grey/silver, but I think essentially it was the same thing. I know it was definately brush-on though, no need for a Schutz gun.

I think anything that's of a non-hardening nature should do you; stop it chipping off with impact.

Oh gawd, I can't remember either, but when I built the GTM I used a rubberised paint-on substance - it wasn't your usual underdeal, it was something very specific that I picked up at Stoneleigh once. I think it was by U-Pol.

Either that or you could stick some foam padding in there, a bit like what manufacturers do (but probably costly, fiddly and dependent on space).

I have done, yes, but I use one of these 'smart chargers' so maybe I have a little more confidence in it than the old £9.99 metal-box chargers from the local car boot

That is NOT right - the resistor shouldn't even have current going through it when the master switch is on! Are you sure you've got it wired correctly, I'm fairly confident in saying you haven't (that's put my neck on the line!)...

Pay attention to the "1" and "2" pairs.

edit: I should hasten to point out it wouldn't be the first fubar'd master switch I've heard off. And if that resistor has spent any significant time smoking it's probably knackered now too! Verify wiring, verify terminals with a multimeter.

With master switch ON, the "1" pins should show NO continuity and the "2" pins should be closed (ie. show continuity).

with master switch OFF, the opposite, obviously

Agreed, the contacts for the soak resistor are only closed when the switch is in the "off" position - so for it to be getting warm (hot!) then your master switch cannot be switching off both batteries. Wire the anderson connector to the in-car battery (or electrically equivalent to that).

Be careful, I assume it's wired right - you'll have 4 contacts on the switch. One pair are closed when the master switch is closed, the others are the inverse (closed when switch is open). It's the latter you want to use for the soak resistor. The other pair are for fuel pump, ECU, or somesuch (if you want to use them).

P.S. The resistor is also there to dump charge from the alternator and cut the car - you'll often find in modern-day ECU driven cars that, even with the master switch flipped, there is enough charge from the alternator to feed back and keep the car running. Without it soaking up the sudden peak from the alternator you might find your car carries on running hence the rather big ceramic resistor