Andy Spencer

I've just done an interim oil change on my 120d as I don't like the 18-20k intervals. Got 5 litres of GM 5w30 dexos 2 fully synth to all the major manufacturer modern specs including Citroen for £21 off Ebay, and its definitely genuine. Linky

Personally, I wouldn't. From a lubrication perspective its unlikely it would do any harm but very often the fully synthetic oils have low ash content and additives to protect modern cats and emission control systems. Diesels are particularly sensitive with the particulate filters, I've less experience with petrols. We have a 2010 Santa Fe where the main dealer put the wrong oil in (semi synth rather than C3 spec fully synth) and 'disco dashboard' soon follows. Does the book mention any oil standards other then just synthetic, e.g ACEA A3, B3, C3? All in all I wouldn't risk it, with the cost of repairs on modern cars with complex systems sky rocketing a few quid extra on the right oil is the best route. Just my 2 penny's worth!

Few more pics

2B Wishbones 2.0 Zetec Stainless with carbon fibre effect nose, cycle wings and rear arches After some thinking and another sub 400 mile year, I’ve decided to part with the Hood after 6 years of great ownership. Originally built by Carl Leonard it was SVA’d in 2004 and converted to Zetec in 2005. Spec includes: 2.0 Zetec (18k miles) with Emerald ECU, 45mm Jenvey throttle bodies, fully mapped by Dave Walker at Emerald to 175bhp. Piper X filters, Bosch fuel pump, Bullet filter. Wunoff exhaust and custom manifold Adjustable Gaz shocks all round Carbon fibre dash and Greengauges clocks (Volts, RPM, Speedo, Temp, Clock, Oil Press (not wired but have warning light), Fuel Black Cobra seats CD radio and 2 speakers Footwell lights 2 x 12V sockets Side screens, tonneau cover, surrey top Floor mounted pedal box with bias bar and 2 reservoirs Small enclosed boot area Just under 8k miles from original build I have owned the car for 6 years and it’s a well sorted car and been very reliable. I have the ECU software and connection cables. Cambelt was changed last year as it’s a 2002 engine. Its got fresh oil, new plugs, 12 months MOT, recent front discs/pads and tax till end October so ready to go for the summer. Car is pretty immaculate in all areas apart from wheels which have a small amount of surface degradation, cosmetic only though (see pics, only noticeable close up). Everything works apart from oil pressure gauge which I’ve never wired up as it needs a sender from Greengauges, oil pressure warning light works fine though. Car runs and drives brilliantly, very quick, have lots of paperwork including all MOT’s, no advisories at MOT last Saturday. Looking for £4995 ono 07747 191961

If its definitely just the head once you have stripped you can get a recon head off ebay for about £200 with warranty. Mind you the top end gasket sets aren't cheap but you don't need them all if you buy recon head. All in all still a lot cheaper than a new crate motor but only if you're sure nothing else is terminal. Or just buy a complete unit from a breakers, the engine in mine originally came from a 15k mile rear ended Focus for half the cost of a new crate engine. 6 years on still going strong (not as many miles as you though!). Be careful to get receipts and origin car details for Mr DVLA when you come to changing engine number on V5. Good luck Andy

Haven't got any sat around but did look into this a while ago, if I remember correctly there's machining work needed on the black top to get them to fit as the profiles can catch the casting. Silver tops don't have the same issues. Maybe some profiles are OK while others not. If I also remember correctly, Nigel (Longboarder) fitted some and had the machining done, maybe he has more info. Just thought it was worth a mention before launching into buying something that may not be a straight swap. Andy

Which switch are you talking about? Unless design has changed, you should have ECU temp sender (1 on attached photo) and dash gauge temp sender (2 on photo) - you run the fan from the ECU as others have said. Thanks Andy

As others have said, a bypass hole in the thermostat itself is required but drilling or butchering of the rail itself is not necessary. I've had a rail fitted with two 3mm holes in the stat since 2006 on my zetec and never had any problems. Andy

I have a trakrite and it works fine. Suspect its not super accurate but near enough for my sort of use. Thanks Andy

Sold.

Water rail and move a bit forward with slightly lengthened prop, use pinto mounts and adapter plates or move a lot further forward and longer prop and standard thermostat housing Mine is former and works well, once a couple of 3mm holes drilled in thermostat

Some more

Some pics

Hi all Thought I'd put my Civic on here for a few days before I put it on ebay or let it go into the trade. Its quite a special spec and thought it might be of interest to someone. I'm selling it as I have to change cars at 5 years old under my company cash for car scheme. Its a November 2006 (56) plate. The car is great, no current faults, no accidents from new, full Honda main dealer service history, only 1 previous owner and I have had it since Nov 09. 90k miles, mostly motorway – the car doesn't do any short trips with me as its not our main family car. Recent main dealer service gave car a clean bill of health. It had the modified clutch fitted @44k miles (well known problem on these), its had recent front discs/pads, rear shocks, front tyres. Rears are still very good. Taxed till end Oct and MOT until November. Pile of service receipts and fully stamped service book. I have averaged 53.6mpg over the last 2500 miles and this is quite normal, goes over 54mpg average in summer. It took me ages to find this car as I wanted a big spec, it has: HID (Xenon) lights, washers and auto levelling, front fogs 18” alloys Sat nav – voice controlled HFT Bluetooth – all voice activated/controlled from steering wheel Cruise control DICE IPod connection linked to steering wheel audio controls, also charges IPod. 6 spd manual Reversing camera Panoramic glass roofs with twin electric blinds Full Leather upholstery Heated front seats Auto lights Auto wipers with sensitivity control and heated washer jets Dual zone climate control Factory fitted body kit Trip computer with 2 zones Heated wing mirrors, electrically retractable and adjustable 4 x electric windows I wouldn't put it on here if it wasn't good. If I could keep it I would, can't find anything similar to replace it with. Happy for any viewings, inspections etc. No finance outstanding so will be HPI clear. Phone me on 07747 191961 if you have any questions. Given spec but offset by higher mileage will price it at £5750 ono but happy to discuss. Thanks for looking Andy

Hi all My standard RH Arays alloys are starting to show signs of surface corrosion, despite an easy life. Has anyone come across a good chrome / polished alloy colour paint or other refurb method that can bring them back to their former 'glory'?! Cheers Andy

That's what I did when replacing them, forgot to mention that!

I cut the bolts as well to remove, a lot easier. In the end I removed the trailing arms to make the whole lot easier, and replaced both bushes in each. I got the replacement bushes and bolts from the local Ford dealer I drilled the old ones out - by drilling into the rubber until loose. Pulled the new ones in with bolt and washers. Easy with the arms on the bench. Whole lot took about a morning, was 2 or 3 years ago so whether dealers still stock the bushes not sure. Cheers Andy

We took some customers to Brands Hatch recently, they do a really good corporate experience day and there's a Hotel at the entrance. Blasting round in new M3's and single seaters on the track plus Pug 106 Rallying and a good dose of Karting made a grand day.

The zetec plugs are incredibly sensitive. If they are wet and black then that is certainly part of the problem of it not even firing. You may find once running that you'll have to change them as they can be the cause of quite rough running. Problem always in these scenarios is to eliminate the original cause first. As others have said check for spark and ensure all other sensors working OK. Can you plug a laptop in to see what the ECU is reading across various parameters? Andy

Well done thanks for that, just ordered new front discs and pads for the Civic as they are getting near - £88 all in inc delivery for Pagid. Pretty good deal.

Thanks both. Need an M6 one - found some eventually and got the ends ordered for less than a fiver for both. Will have a go at making something up this weekend. Don't see any reason why it shouldn't work. Might get some studded tie ends at some point if it all works and I don't get disco dashboard when fitted! Thanks again Andy

Hi all Just wondered whether anyone knows of a supplier that can do link rods (similar to drop links) but based on dimensions not car type. I have a 2006 Civic with Xenons and a headlight level senser. There's a tie / link rod on the rear senser that has some play in it and causing a rattle (see pics). Honda don't sell the rod alone but senser still working fine and before I shell out £250 on a whole senser unit wondering whether I can find someone to supply one with similar / same measurements. Anyone got any ideas? Many thanks Andy

Agree totally. I've still added some strength around the tunnel around the UJ's, and made crude angle deflectors away from fuel line at UJ's as well. Although I know my prop is a good one (for those that don't know I have Carl's old 2B), I still have worries about the fuel lines down the tunnel though and what would happen if a failure occurred (this isn't just about my car must be the same for may). With injection pump, inevitably failed fuel line, resultant high fuel flow rate and lots of sparks from prop bits = fireball. Must re prioritise the job list to re route fuel lines away from tunnel.............

Moved house this week (finally got a double garage after years of saving...yippee!) - phoned tin top car insurances for mine and the wife's car...both changed free of charge and no extra premium (same village). Phoned Sureterm Direct for kit car and they wanted £45.90 to change address - £30 admin fee for them and a £15.90 fee from the underwriters. 40% of the annual premium just to change address...outrageous!! Have a good Xmas all Andy

Correct if its a 20 spline 4 speed box, think the 23 spline 4 speeders fitted to some 2ltr Cortinas had the same output as the type 9 box. If you are definitely happy with the 4 speed I am sure Burton still do the 20 spline 2 litre diameter plates (I got mine off Big Jim who may remember where he sourced it from) so all you'd need is a 2ltr flywheel, as if I remember the 1.6 20 spline one is smaller and different bolt up positions. Not sure whether release bearing is same but inexpensive to change anyway whilst its all out. Cheers