Lights On Warning

[E.Hunt]

Drove the kit to work last Thursday, overcast morning so had headlights on.Go to go home at the end of the day and embarrassingly no battery juice left. I seem to have 4 options.

 

1, Have the lights switch off with the ignition.

 

2, a buzzer when key is removed (have this on indicators)

 

3, a timer to turn off the lights after a period of time.

 

4, don't use the car unless its very sunny

 

your thoughts on the best solution.

[miikae]

Fit a battery isolator switch and always take the key with you would seem like a good solution for you

 

Mike

[philshelton]

Fit a battery isolator switch and always take the key with you would seem like a good solution for you

 

Mike

thats the system i use :clapping:

[Guest dinger]

You could always remember to turn your lights off, lol

 

Fit an isolator switch cause you'll still leave the lights on with a buzzer fitted, I'm paid to follow people around who do this all the time, lol

[Guest shaggy]

 

4, don't use the car unless its very sunny

 

 

Thats my recommendation, but then you'd be limiting use to only a couple of days in the summer months

 

Si

[Guest sandy77uk]

so where would you fit the isolator and is it easy to get to via the cockpit?

[steve in stockport]

Mine is mounted on the steering column support, all the cars earths go to the chassis, there is a main earth cable from the chassis to the isolator switch and one from the other side of the switch to the battery.

Just turn the key to disconnect all the electrics, either leave the key in situ or take it out for extra security.

It also helps to maintain your battery when the cars not in use, as there's nothing connected to drain the power

[Bob Tucker]

My car packed up on the way home from LeMans last year.

I had a fried ECU, but couldnt see what had caused it.

An electrician friend took one look at my wiring & pointed out that I had run the starter motor through the isolater switch. He checked the switch & found the contacts had been fried. He reckoned that the starter current had overloaded the switch, which had intermittently turned off, possibly allowing the alternator to produce higher voltage than the ECU could take.

We rewired it so the starter circuit bypasses the switch, but everything else goes through it.

I am an electrical ignoramus.....so I pass this on without opinion...

Cheers, Bob

[E.Hunt]

Mine is mounted on the steering column support, all the cars earths go to the chassis, there is a main earth cable from the chassis to the isolator switch and one from the other side of the switch to the battery.

Just turn the key to disconnect all the electrics, either leave the key in situ or take it out for extra security.

It also helps to maintain your battery when the cars not in use, as there's nothing connected to drain the power

 

so the earth strap has the isolating switch in it. Seems a lot easier than i thought.

[Guest sandy77uk]

Do the cables need to be the same size as the main battery positive and negative?

[Guest mower man]

Yes or you will have possible fire probs . Battery earth to isol ---> isol to earth simples ,instant eng stop, fuel pumpstop [if electric ]infact every thing stop mowerman ,mines been like it years

[Guest sandy77uk]

Yes or you will have possible fire probs . Battery earth to isol ---> isol to earth simples ,instant eng stop, fuel pumpstop [if electric ]infact every thing stop mowerman ,mines been like it years

 

I dont fancy running 2 more thick battery cables through my baulkhead to a switch, especially a battery live

[fry61]

An alternative -- if dash fitted with toggle light switch or standard coluum switch still in use. Fit a piece of rubber tube over end of switch;tie a string to this; loop string under steering coluum & complete "mechanics" by making a noose in longish end. when driving place noose over head so when exiting vehicle string will pull light switch to "OFF" position or throttle you into remembering why you are now turning Blue.