1.8 Pinto Tuning.

[Bob Tucker]

I really wouldnt start with mods before you fix this problem.

Head mods & a 285 cam will only work at their best at higher revs,

& will REDUCE power & torque at lower revs.

You could end up going slower!!!

[Guest davidimurray]

My 1800 pinto is fitted with bike carbs and a megajolt, rev limiter is set to 6250 and it will happily rev to 5500+ in 1st-4th, haven't tried 5th

 

Engine won't know what gear it is in so won't be gear specific. When I first ran my bike carbs I had them a little lean at the top end and they didn't like to rev that highly at WOT, gave it some more fuel and is much better. I would check your ignition advance first then look at fuel. Do you know anybody with a wideband lambda you could borrow?

Edited January 17, 2014 by davidimurray

[Guest karif2800]

I'll try with someone that got a timing lamp to check the advantage and correct it. I hope this is the problem and not something more difficult to resolve. In any case could be a good upgrade a kit from accuspark with new electronic distributor and a coil to connect directly to 12volts?

[Longboarder]

Thanks for the information on your ignition. I agree wrong timing of ignition would cause lack of revs. I would check the distributor to see if the centrifugal advance is working properly and has not rusted or lost its springs. I would also disconnect the vacuum pipe to the distributor if you have one and block it. Then, using a timing light, set the idle ignition timing to 12 degrees before TDC as a starting point. You may need to change this by 2 or 3 degrees to get best power without pinking/pre-ignition/detonation (whichever you call it).

 

Nigel

 

1. There are some small gains to be had from a better ignition system but get the one already fitted working properly first. You might be happy.

2. I wouldn't rev an 1800 pinto much over 6000rpm continuous.

[Peter Bell]

Will the engine rev ok when the car is stationary? if so it could be a problem with fuel flow to the carb. Check any filters in the fuel line, a common problem is sealant etc in the tank blocking the outlet pipe or possibly just the fuel pump on its way out?

[Guest karif2800]

When the car is stopped the revs are effective ok. I'll check the fuel line. How cai I check the fuel pump? If I've to chnge what kind of pump can I fit better than original one?

[Snapperpaul]

There are many things to check and exclude as the problem.

You can isolate some by for instance using a bottle to supply gravity fed fuel to the carb, this will isolate pump and filter

I think your carb has a vacuum activated secondary choke it would be worth taking the air filter off and looking to see if this opens on full throttle.

I had issues with carb freezing on an XR2 and found a simple 2" hot air feed sorted this out

[Peter Bell]

there is nothing wrong with the original pump usually very reliable, if you go electric it will obviously need wiring and an impact cut off switch. Check the fuel lines first and if possible try the little remote tank idea, if you can connect it to the pump it could eliminate crap in the tank theory too.

[Bob Tucker]

I think your carb has a vacuum activated secondary choke

 

That got me thinking...many many years ago I had a Renault 21 Savannah..

That had similar symptoms that turned out to be the second choke linkage had broken.

It ran very smoothly on the first smaller choke, but had little go at medium revs & wouldnt rev in any gear...

[Guest karif2800]

I've seen that the vacuum port on carb is not linked to the distributor dizzy. I don't know if the second choke is vacuum or machanical operated. Could be the cause of my problems? If dizzy is not linked to vacuum line could I've troubles with distributor? Mine is electronic red cap.

Thanks

[Bob Tucker]

Post up some pictures....there are several types of carb & distributor.

The dizzy has a vacuum operated unit that advances the ignition for low throttle cruising.

Even If its not working it wont cause your symptoms.

BUT all takeoffs on the carb & the manifold must either be connected to something or blanked off.

Just seen you have a 32/36 carb. That is a good carb & the second choke works from the first choke....

this is a good source of info to identify the carb.......

http://www.thelolare...m/DIY/Weber.htm

& it shows how the 2 chokes are connected.

I wouldnt try the mods he is suggesting!!!

 

Make sure this is the carb you have....they were never fitted to the 1.8 engine.

Hope that helps, Bob

[Guest karif2800]

This is a picture of my carb before stripping and jetting. i've changed the air filter with a pancake one.

[Peter Bell]

Hmm I would try driving it again with the air filter removed and see if it runs better.

[Snapperpaul]

What is that small pipe left chock body, looks like vac secondary actuator in connected.

Yes air box looks wrong

[Guest karif2800]

What is that small pipe left chock body, looks like vac secondary actuator in connected.

Yes air box looks wrong

Really don't know. I've changed the filter with a pancake one and stripped and jetted carb. Is it a 32/36 as mechanic said me? It's an autochoke