Clutch Issue Advice Needed

[MarkBzero]

Nearly ready for IVA application however I have one small (frustrating) problem and need some advice before taking the engine out again! I have a strange and not common engine choice for a GBS Zero, my donor was a South African import fitted with xflow and 4 speed gearbox. I have swapped the gearbox to type 9.

 

The problem is I do not have enough clutch pedal travel to disengage the clutch fully making it noisy/difficult to select gears. With all slack out of clutch arm/fork and limited/no cable slack (fully adjusted) the pedal is far to high to use. I have read a few forum topics that suggest changing the clutch arm fulcrum/pivot point, fit a longer release bearing or bend the clutch arm.

 

Help!

[Snapperpaul]

If its a non adjustable cable you can lengthen the outer by using a spacer tube.

Other option is the CT 113 or 133 bearing

But I think it is the simple outer cable cover to short

Escort pedal boxes had a tube that made up the slack

[Guest Alan_builder]

Hi Mark,

 

Is the clutch housing the Sierra one? Some have different depths.

As snapper says one can use the alternate bearings or chop the cable.

Are you sure you have full pedal travel? On the 2B lots op people fitted the end wall to close to the pedal box and thus limited the clutch pedal travel without reaalising the mistake.

Often one can change the clutch yellow quadrant for a larger diameter or pad the existing one to make it a larger diameter and get more movement.

 

Alan

[Longboarder]

'With all slack out of clutch arm/fork and limited/no cable slack (fully adjusted) the pedal is far to high to use.'

 

Fit a stop to limit pedal return so it can't rise too high. Readjust cable till it feels right.

I have return stops on clutch and throttle pedals so the sit in line with the brake pedal. Travel stop only on throttle so I don't overstress the throttle cable at WOT.

 

Nigel

[knights_templar]

this sounds like you need the pivot pin mod.

[Shaft]

Just lengthen the pedal above the pivot point. This will give a longer pull on the cable for the same movement at the foot plate.

HTH,

 

Nick.

[MarkBzero]

Thank you.

I have an adjustable cable on full adjustment, then chopped the cable did not work causing clutch slip when disengaged. No quadrant to change or modify I will try the extension tube idea first. I assume the release bearing must be longer i.e. engaging earlier to be effective. If I amend the pivot pin do I have to change release bearing as well?

 

Good idea (Nick) on the increasing the pivot point on actual clutch pedal, no welding gear but I will have to consider if all else fails.

 

Hopefully getting some garage time tomorrow to try these ideas.

[Shaft]

Mark, have a peruse through my build pics. I did just this on mine to enable use of the standard sierra clutch cable and using the OEM nipple on the end also.

I did fabricate a new outer clutch mount on the chassis though aswell. 1, to move it to a more favourable position and 2, I didn't deem the original strong enough.

(Mine was an early chassis style though).

[Guest Alan_builder]

If I amend the pivot pin do I have to change release bearing as well?

Hopefully getting some garage time tomorrow to try these ideas.

 

The pivot pin and bearing mod are not linked, one or the other or both. The final answer depends on the overall geometry.

 

You have not commented on the Clutch Housing, I didn't mean the bell housing, I mean the clutch pressure plate.

I think your problem is you have kept the Xflow clutch assy. If I am correct this is the same as the 1.6L Pinto and is shallower than the 2L Pinto.

 

Are you going the correct way?

 

Many of the mods above are for the Zetec to type 9. The Zetec goes further into the type 9 than the Pinto where as the Xflow will be shorter, less engagement than the Pinto.

Just a thought.

[Guest mcramsay]

is your release arm the correct one for the Pinto 5 Speed Type 9? there are different release arms around that all look the same, but when you put them next to eachother they all have different pivot points, this ruined my car last year. i spent weeks chasing a clutch slipping problem. eventually i found the culprit was i had used a release arm that was for a type 9 box fitted to the v6 engines.

[MarkBzero]

Clutch housing was the original xflow, should I replace with 2l pinto clutch and will the flywheel be suitable? I am assuming it is correct from a picture I found on the internet.

[Guest Alan_builder]

Something is not correct.

 

The 1.6l Sierra clutch plate is for a smaller input shaft than the 2L Sierra 5 speed gearbox.

So one has to change the clutch friction plate, I am sur you also need to change the cover / housing as well. Trouble is one almost always changes both together.

 

I had hoped longboarder would have popped up. I feel confident the Xflow uses the same bolt pattern as the 1.6L Pinto flywheel on the same size. The 1.8 CVH and the 1.8L & 2L zetec use different diameter bolt paterns.

My poor old brain, 1.6L cortina and RWD escort use the xflow and it makes sense the 1.6 uses the same bolt patern. The 2L pinto clutch plate is deep to get the extra force for the clutch plate pressure but uses the same diameter?

 

Nigel help!

 

Mark, Nigel will know I will send him a PM.

[Guest Alan_builder]

lost the post!

 

There must be a mistake as:-

 

Xflow clutch asseblly wont fit a type 9 input shaft, wrong diameter and splines?

 

Mark, I can't see the wood from the trees, I want to ask what did Ford build. Did they use a 4 speed box with the larger input shaft and thus pinto clutch? If not where has the change come from so that the bits will fit? You told me the Sierra came from South Africa, any history, like did it go to SA in that form?

 

Did you count the splines or measure the input shaft diameter? Ford are good keeping things the same and interchangeable well almost, they practice why reinvent the wheel.

 

Where is Nigel?

[Longboarder]

To get a clearer picture of where the problem lies try disconnecting the clutch cable, push the end of the release arm toward the engine until it will go no further. i.e. the release arm is forcing the release bearing firmly against the diaphragm fingers.

Where abouts in the hole in the bellhousing is the engine-side(front) surface of the release arm?

Its position will differentiate between a pedal/cable/adjustment problem and a clutch/release bearing/release arm problem.

 

Nigel

 

What clutch plate and diaphragm are you using?

[MarkBzero]

In the garage tomorrow I have the old 4 speed box and will count the splines, measure diameter. The old clutch pate did fit the splines on the new type 9 gearbox. No history with the car it was made in SA Ford factory and imported in 1989 to the UK. Getting bits have been a challenge normally comparing like for like at parts depots normally Escort MK 1/2, Cortina MK 2/3 or Capri MK 1/2 as you can imagine most car parts places do not like this approach.

 

Nigel I will try you recommendations tomorrow and post a picture. Not sure about the part numbers for clutch plate or diaphragm I am using the one that came with the car. (before I get slated this was only going to be a temp engine fix until after IVA no cat needed and wanted age related plate).

 

Thank you