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Advice - Need To Cut The Floor Panels On My 2B...


Guest david_l_perry

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Guest david_l_perry

As part of my Jag V6 engine build I have had to have a new prop shaft for the jag box and sierra diff.

 

I now have a problem that I can't slide the prop shaft in the the drive shaft tunnel as the end plate will not pass through the tunnel As the tunnel closes up narrower than the end plate. The original type 9 was just a narrow spline to one end allowing the shaft to just slide through the tunnel

 

This is a 2B so all tubular frame and not monocoque.

 

I want to cut the btm plate below the driveshaft tunnel it's full length to allow me to lift up the prop shaft into position, but it will also give me clear access to replace fuel lines and fix the gear selector linkages.

 

I will then replace with a new cover panel bolted or riveted back in place.

 

If this was a monocoque I would not consider this, but as it's the 2B I don't think its a problem cutting through this panel and replacing, but want to get advice from you lot befor I get the angry grinder out and my car folds in half......

 

Dave

 

 

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Cut it out & leave it out --- will prevent build-up of heat in the tunnel which some say comes up the gear shift & cooks the knob. Use some angle iron or thinner steel bent to r/angle to rejoin floor to tunnel sides .

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Dave , do it, not a problem, you will see at the back its bent and put back ( I replaced the uj's in prop when they failed) cut out, clean out the yrs of 5hite and leave off if needed to help with heat reduction as Bob said, but then again its holding your arse in the car, ,REINFORCE IT !!!!! hahahah

 

Mitch

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Guest david_l_perry

Cheers Mitch.....Its actually all further reinforced under and over the seat area with 5bar aluminium plate where the seats bolt through anyway......helps support my fat arse nicely

 

seatpanel1.jpg

 

seatpanel2.jpg

 

 

 

Will get the grinder and cutting discs out and slice away......

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Cheers Mitch.....Its actually all further reinforced under and over the seat area with 5bar aluminium plate where the seats bolt through anyway......helps support my fat arse nicely

 

seatpanel1.jpg

 

seatpanel2.jpg

 

 

 

Will get the grinder and cutting discs out and slice away......

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Guest david_l_perry

Best not to cut ally with a friction disc -- the ally will clog the wheel & maybe burst due to excessive heat build-up.

 

The ally is under the seats either side of the tunnel, so I don't need to cut through that at all.

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Guest mower man

What did you do to reinforce it? I thought floor was critical?

Ina word nowt! fortunatly pre iva may be even pre sva [not sure but I think it was built from a flat pack kit ] and had welds at many places too, build was buy aguy who ran a s/s fab firm ,I had some minor cracking issues down to stupid stiff front suspension rates and donor a/roll bar replaced with tie bar set up no more probs in 12 years mick :crazy:

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Guest 2b cruising

Only a mild comment so ignore if you want to.

I would personally put the bolts through the other way on the floor.

1. It would stop them hitting any lumps and bumps in the road. Could hurt you if hit hard.

2. If the thread does get damaged and bent, horrible job to cut them to take them out in any future event. I would even use dome headed bolts if available.

Only my opinion so ignore if you choose.

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